Asking for help with ceramic washer in motor and cleanout

[tom scheidecker]

We bought two low hour RXT's last year and the SC was not working on mine. We hadn't looked at the forum and didn't know much about these boats. So now I'm tearing into the oil pumps, got the front one off and found about half a washer in all sized pieces, and damage to the pump. I need tools to get the driveshaft out so I can remove the PTO cover to get to the back pump, but I'm expecting the same.
So, to anyone who has done this before; What are the chances the oil pumps ground the pieces fine enough to go through the whole oiling system?
Seadoo says the pump parts must be changed and there is wear in the cover and the housing of the front. Will I tear up new pumps with grit that might be in the engine, or is it better to tear the motor down?
I have seen two part numbers for the separator tool for the driveshaft. 529-035-841 and 529-035-987, the last one, I read somewhere, was for supercharged engines. I've seen four or five tools for driveshaft removal. Do I need them all?
I thought I would find grit in the oil passage holes behind the pump but I didn't find any pieces there. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks Tom

 

[ryffish]

Everybody I heard that had that problem ripped down whole engine to make sure no ceramic pieces were in the engine . I even saw a you tube video about it . I have an 06 rxp 215 SC that was first thing I did after I bought it is have supercharger rebuilt . I'm pretty sure most people in this forum would tell you to tear down engine and be sure there is no ceramic shavings in your engine

 

[Coastiejoe]

All that I have heard have pulled the motor and done a total clean as well....

 

[ryffish]

Also for driveshaft removal I bought a floating ring tool and a seal support tool . And you will need oeticker pliers to take off those rings holding rubber on . The floating ring tool goes in between bellows and carbon ring you crank screw and it pushes carbon ring aka the circular accordion towards the hull . Push it far enough to get to the circlip and remove it then it should come out . It is in the manual on the seadoo forum very informative very useful

 

[ryffish]

Also it is good practice to replace carbonseal and bellows since you are removing them also a good time to inspect wear ring and impeller welcome to the world of high performance seadoo jetskis . When you play hard

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

All the really important stuff, like crank bearings and supercharger bearings are protected by the oil filter, but the oil pumps are just protected by a mesh screen. The gears will grind those washers up pretty small, and those chunks will and no doubt have entered and scratched up your oil pumps. The question is HOW BAD? I would think your oil galleys are okay, but everything before the filter needs to be cleaned with shop air. Here is a good video of the Rotax lubrication system: https://youtu.be/C7zDoIy_QqQ

 

[ski-d00]

you don't really need the driveshaft tools. push the collar back, remove c-clip, remove pump, have someone pull gently on the driveshaft and tap the bearing forward with a brass punch where it meets the driveshaft. it will come right out. the collar can be tricky on some. there's a pry tool somebody made on ebay that I'll bet works really well which is pretty much how I get them to move backwards with prying in the proper spot to expose the clip. some say that saltwater ones may have to be cut off. I don't do a lot of saltwater machines since I'm like a thousand miles from saltwater but the ones I have done I've never had to cut one off.

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

The bearing collar on mine was rust welded on. Couldn't get it off with a12 ton press. Had to get a new drive shaft, but was able to remove the engine still

 

[tom scheidecker]

Thanks for your help. I'm glad these posts stay around because I'll have to refer to them later when I get wrenchin'.