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Anyone ever modify the stator assembly fins?

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mrjimbov

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While removing the impeller from my Challenger 2000 I noticed the stator assembly has 7 fins. The castings are very rough. Has anyone ever tried smoothing out the castings or even removing 2 or 3 of the fins to help with water flow?

If so, were there any noteable gains in performance?
 
I purchased my Challenger 2000 M2 a few weeks ago and pulled the wear ring and stator apart. Fixed the wear ring with JB Weld (worked awsome). Sharpened the fins on the stator and noticed the lip where the two molds split apart. I filed these flat in each runner. Also, when sharpening the leading edges, I worked in to the inner and outter edge of the stator with the dremel. These leading edges started to flatten out in the original mold when they near the inner and outter shell... I thought with the amout of volume going thru the unit it can only help...don't know how much though.

Taking the boat out tomorrow for the trial run. Don't have a base for comparison, but can still see what speed I get out of it on GPS.

I will try to post results later...

Dave
 
cleaning up the stator is known as "blue printing" the pump. if you are gong to race, it will hep with overall efficiency, but a recreational rider won't notice much improvement.

If you remove fins... you will make the pump less stable, and could crash the impeller into the pump wall. Also... the stator fins help remove the torque. If you remove them... you may have handling issues.

FYI... the skat-track "Magnum Pump" has even more stator blades.
 
the water is coming off the impellor one way, so the "fins" inside the pump assy, re-direct the flow of water the other way, so it exits straight...
 
The stator fins also make the jetdrive more efficient...

Here's how I explain this to people.

Imagine a nut screwed onto a bolt. If you turn the nut, it moves along the bolt. But if you turn the bolt, that also makes the nut move. In other words, all you need is relative motion between the two. Together, the bolt and nut are a system that converts rotational motion to linear motion.

When a propeller "screws" its way through the water, some of the energy is converted into linear energy that pushes the water stream (and thus pushes the hull forward). But a lot of the energy is lost to rotational motion of the water. You can see this if you study the water coming off a traditional exposed propeller - you'll see the water swirling around back there. That rotational motion does not help push the hull forward, so it is wasted.

But in a jetdrive, you have the opportunity to recapture some of that rotational energy via the stator. Yes, the stator supports the rear of the impeller shaft - but if that were its only job those vanes would simply be straight for minimal hydraulic resistance (friction). Instead, you'll notice that the vanes are slanted. Thinking back to the bolt-nut example above... when the rotating water stream (the "bolt") encounters those tilted stator vanes (the "nut"), the vanes are moved along the water stream. The water moves the vanes, the vanes move the stator, the stator moves the powerplant, and thus the energy is recaptured and used to propel the hull.

So the stator's vanes convert some of that rotational motion into linear motion to help move the hull. It's not 100% efficient on these simple jetdrives because the optimum angle for the stator vanes changes with varying impeller RPM, water velocity through the drive, etc. More complex and expensive jetdrives (on larger boats) have adjustable stator vanes, like variable pitch aircraft propellers, to optimize for those varying conditions.

There's quite a bit more going on in a hydraulic jetdrive than first meets the eye! [grin]
 
Thanks for all the great information. I'll probably clean up the castings with a Dremel tool and put it back together after I get the impeller back.
 
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