any reason to 'replace' a carburetor?

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Mgiffune

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After all the cold starting problems I've had with my 95XP, even after the carburetor rebuild, I'm wondering if it's not worthwhile to just get another carburetor from Ebay, rebuild, and drop it in. Is there ever any reason to 'replace' a carburetor? This is a freshwater only craft that I've owned since 96. Fuel lines replaced, fuel selector cleaned.

Problems really didn't start until after I removed the carburetor and had it rebuilt last spring. I didn't rebuild it myself, but I'm wondering if something didn't get screwed up during the rebuild. I had a bolt seized that had to be ground out, so one of the carburetors took some pretty heavy physical 'abuse', heat and impact, to get the bolt removed.

Buy another rebuild kit and put it in these carbs, or buy a pair from ebay, a kit, and try a second carburetor? What's the likelyhood of a carburetor being 'damaged' past the point of a full rebuild resolving?

Original post here - http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?62410-95XP-717-hard-starting-when-cold
 
Sure.... If they are truly rotten.


I rebuild and/or clean a lot of carbs. I've seen some that were BEAT... but I can save them. Then, I get some with light corrosion, and they never work right.


Basically... if the corrosion is bad... and there is pitting inside... they may be hard to save, if you want a PERFECTLY running ski. The pitting keeps parts from sealing, and can mess up the metering of the fuel.
 
IMO since you already have the new carb kit in, just take the carb appart again and try it one more time. Worst thing that can happen is you waste a couple hours. Could be something simple as the choke not closing completly too.

If you are unsure about the rebuild, just get some paper towels laid out and lay the parts exactly how you found them. Remove all the gaskets carefully and put them aside. And one thing that's often overlooked-the mixture screws. Remove them. Take the main carb body and spray carb cleaner through all the passages. and holes. Use a thin wire from a wire brush to clean the tiny idle circuit holes on the engine side of the throttle butterfly. A little piece of welding wire, or even welding tip cleaners can be used if you have one small enough. Then compressed air to blow out all the passages. As the Dr said, make sure all the mating surfaces are clean and not pitted. If a little corrosion, you may get away with 300-500 grit sand paper to clean up the mating surfaces. (300 for real bad, then smooth out with 500)

Re-assemble, check pop off, and I bet that carb will be as good as new. I spent my teenage years tinkering with 2 cycle weedeaters and such. And getting those carbs to work properly is an art. Another thing to try soaking the carb in acetone or carb cleaner ( in a sealed container for 24 hours) it will remove anything. (just remember no plastic or rubber parts left in there)
 
Thanks guys. Exactly what I was wanting to know. I don't expect anyone with a crystal ball, just some opinions based on those with more experience on how to proceeded.

I'm fairly certain these carbs are in good shape, corrosion wise. My sea-doo's are babied, garage stored, freshwater only, cleaned regularly, etc. The engine compartments and all parts so far have been clean, and as I said, I've had this one since it was 'brand new', (purchased less than 12 months old in 1996).
 
Tore the carbs out. Before even removing them completely, I noticed gas on the bottom of the fuel pump. Cranked it with my hand under the fuel inlet, and could feel liquid coming out. Hoping that's what was causing it, I'm guessing it just wasn't mated very well. The carbs in general seem to be in really good condition, to my untrained eye.

Took everything out, checked pop off, re seated and re-assembled everything. Firing up much easier, and am not noticing anything coming out of the bottom of the fuel pump. Firing right up now, but that's not rare in the driveway. We'll see what happens next weekend. Thanks for the comments everyone!
 
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