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Antifouling

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DaveSW

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I know keeping a challenger in water is a bad idea, but if one was antifouling one, which antifouling would you use?

The reason I ask is, if the antifouling contains copper, does that make the jet drives into an anode? Obviously there are zinc anodes on the drives too,

I'm looking specifically at International VC Offshore with Teflon, or Trilux.
 
Hi Sqwerz

I contacted international paints and spoke to their technical manager, and they said that because the jets are aluminium, if I was to antifoul with VC offshore I would have to leave a 2" gap around the jets.
Alternatively if I was to use trilux I could go right up to them.

I opted for trilux, which does not contain copper and therefore is safe right up to the aluminium.

It requires an undercoat like primacon, and then 2 coats for the whole hull, 3 or 4 in the heavy wear areas.

Because it's on a bunk trailer, we used a jack to lift the hull and rest it on one set of bunks, then propped it into position with some blocks of wood on the center bar of the trailer. We then prepped one side at a time.

I'm still in the process of figuring out what to do with the jets, but think we'll dismantle, bead blast the black parts, then repaint either primer then an enamel based paint, then the same as the hull, or possibly just go straight for the same as the hull.

I'll post some pictures if I get 5 mins.

Cheers
Dave
 
Why is keeping a Challenger in the water a bad idea? I keep mine in a fresh water marina all summer and, aside from an acid wash required each fall, I haven't noticed any problems.
 
I'm curious about this too with my sportster. I have been thinking about renting a slip at the local lake this year... ???
 
It depends where you're keeping it. Different areas have different degrees of fouling. 9 months in a tidal harbour in the UK = barnacles!
 
Mine will be in a fresh water lake. I'm confused about the whole thing, what do you mean by fouling anyway? What gets fouled?

Completely confused,

Thanks!

KW
 
Problems may develop inside Pump and cooling hoses

I think the problem is not so much with the outside of the boat/ski but the accumulation of growth, slime, etc inside the jet pump and cooling water lines can end up causing overheating, cavitation etc.
 
Anti-fouling?

Anti-fouling is commonly used in boats that remain in water, like sailboats and yachts.

The anti-fouling is not your standard paint. It's applied over a bottom coat as a top coat to protect your hull from a marine growth. There are many different types of fouling paint but the results are the same.

First, you have to have a good, hard bottom coat that is the base for your anti-fouling. The anti-fouling is usually applied just before the bottom coat dries. This causes it to be bonded with that coat.

In older fouling coats, there was a poison type ingredient added that kept the marine growth from attaching itself to the hull. Once they tried to attach, like barannacles, their roots were contaminated by the poison and they'd die.

Now days, it's mostly copolymers and other organics. Some use copper oxides and salts.

The anti-fouling never really gets hard. What ever growth might be on it, will be removed from the forward motion of the boat. Kinda like combining the bottom of all slim and tangles. In doing this, you are also loosing small amounts of fouling all the time. This coating should be inspected yearly and depending on what type you purchase, it has to be re-applied anywhere between once a year to every 4 or 5 years. The cheaper coatings are yearly with more expensive being longer.

My experience with anti-foulings comes from several years back, when I owned a 22 foot Calalina sail boat. I also have experience with these coatings in a ship yard work environment.

But, I think there is a huge piece of this picture being left out. The reason we don't leave our boats in the water is because of marine growth, it's because the jet pump, thru hull seal and impeller bearing system not being designed for continous submersion. You'll also have a problem with electroylsis. This will be worse if you leave an electrical connection from the pier to the boat. You'll notice the effects of this when you try to remove a carb. The aluminum and stainless fasteners are more likely to seize from aluminum oxide that occurs through electroylsis.

Copper does not provide any protection from electrolysis. Only zinc anode bars can do this. Brass however is less likely to be affected from the salts of ocean water.

Fresh water boats will be exposed to marine growth, just not the horrible growth of barannacles. But, I have seen boats on lakes that have mussels, slime and algae growht on them. So, just because your in fresh water, doesn't make you immune to marine growth.

Remember, if you leave your boat un-attended in the water, you stand the chance of sinking if your thru hull seal gives way or leaks badly. You will be relying totally on your bilge pump. All these seals usually leak by to some degree. So, it's because of this that BRP suggests that you remove the boat from the water when finished.

The last thing you have to realize is, no back flushing. If you don't remove the boat, then you'll likely neglect your regular maintenance.:cheers:
 
Remember, if you leave your boat un-attended in the water, you stand the chance of sinking if your thru hull seal gives way or leaks badly. You will be relying totally on your bilge pump. All these seals usually leak by to some degree. So, it's because of this that BRP suggests that you remove the boat from the water when finished.:

Does the bilge pump still function when you turn the boat off and presumably isolate everything?
 
Does the bilge pump still function when you turn the boat off and presumably isolate everything?

Yes... but we get horror stories on this board once in a while that basically go like this:


Them: I left my boat in the water this past week, and when I got back, it was sunk.

Us: We told you not to do it.

Them: But you said the bilge pump would work with the boat off.

Us: It probably did, but after an hour or so of it running, your battery probably went dead.

Them: after the boat was recovered... the battery was dead.


Anyway... it's just not a good idea with these boats.

With an I/O or outboard... you can lift the drive out of the water, and you don't have the same issues as our jet boats have.
 
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That all makes sense, I'll leave it on the trailer. Thanks for all the expertise as usual gentlemen.
 
We solved this problem by getting an AirDock...

We wanted our 2001 C2K to live "in the water" all season long. The easier something is to use, the more you'll use it - and we wanted to be able to just "jump in" whenever we wanted. But I hated the idea of antifouling paint. It's heavy, expensive, and requires maintenance.

So I started designing an air-pumped boat lift but then found that a company named AirDock already makes them. After research and several phone conversations with them I spent the money. And I've never regretted it.

We've had it for five years now and wouldn't change a thing. In fact, we bought two more of them when we got jetskis.

Here's what our C2K looks like up on the AirDock:

33.jpg


Here's a link to AirDock's website:

http://www.airdock.com/frame_1.htm

Standard disclaimer: I have no affiliation with AirDock other than as a happy customer.

Hope this helps!
 
That airdock setup looks pretty sweet. I might have to consider that at some point. I think I'll just pull it out of the water each time this year. It's a little more money than I'm willing to spend at this point. I'll keep a bookmark though!

Kyle
 
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