Another winterizing question

[kwiktsi]

I have an 08 Speedster 150 SCIC. I know all the basic winterizing procedures, but I have read that with the SCIC, you were supposed to drain the lines to the intercooler and exhaust and fill them with anti-freeze. What lines are these? I want to get this done ASAP since it is getting close to freezing on some nights here! Thanks.
Joe

 

[gerapau]

Your user manual should describe this well with pictures. Take a look at it and you should have no problem figuring it all out.

 

[kwiktsi]

Your user manual should describe this well with pictures. Take a look at it and you should have no problem figuring it all out.

I didn't even think to look there . I honestly forgot all about it even having one. I'll have to look to see if it is in the boat still. Thanks.
Joe

 

[gerapau]

If you can't find it you should be able to download it from the owner center at Sea-Doo http://www.sea-doo.com/en-US/owner-center/operators-guides.html

 

[tresvatos1]

what would happen if I did this??

The easyist way is to get a 5 gallon pail. Fill it with the pink antifreeze.Now get a submersible pump and hook a hose to the pump and the other to your flush fitting or whatever.Start your engine and then pump the antifreeze throu the whole motor. No need to pinch off hoses and leave the antifreeze in there. As long as you get the water out and the antifreeze in nothing will freeze inside the engine. Just pinch off the same hose you do for flushing and you'll be ok.Ive been doing this for years and never had a problem

 

[screwball]

OR

You could move to Southern California......it doesn't freeze here

 

[tresvatos1]

yeah! That would be nice, but I live in Miss., so on that note, do you think that this would work, if I fogged the engine too?

It gets just cold enough a couple of days to freeze here.

 

[robertm]

If you can't find it you should be able to download it from the owner center at Sea-Doo http://www.sea-doo.com/en-US/owner-center/operators-guides.html

Thanks for the link. Its so much more enjoyable to read this stuff at work on the computer than at home with the owners manual

Quick question. Assuming I add the antifreeze as detailed in the op inst. to the intercooler and exhaust manifold, what do I need to do when I restart? Do I just fire it up and let the anitfreeze find its way out?

Reason I ask is down here in Dallas we get maybe 8-10 feezing evenings from now to Arpil. We also get a lot of 80+ days in between. I will most likely fill with antifreeze, run the boat, and refill with antifreeze several times between now and April.

Does that sound ok?

 

[gerapau]

Thanks for the link. Its so much more enjoyable to read this stuff at work on the computer than at home with the owners manual

Quick question. Assuming I add the antifreeze as detailed in the op inst. to the intercooler and exhaust manifold, what do I need to do when I restart? Do I just fire it up and let the anitfreeze find its way out?

Reason I ask is down here in Dallas we get maybe 8-10 feezing evenings from now to Arpil. We also get a lot of 80+ days in between. I will most likely fill with antifreeze, run the boat, and refill with antifreeze several times between now and April.

Does that sound ok?

Normal automotive antifreeze isn't really all that good for the environment so you should try to recover as much of it as you can before you put the boat in the water. Many animals really like the taste of antifreeze but it is very deadly to them so if you leave it run out at home you should clean it up quickly. I would imagine it isn't all that good for marine life either. There are different environmentally safe antifreezes available but they will cost a bit more. Just make sure they are safe for aluminum engines (alot of people use RV antifreeze without any problems but I wouldn't).

There shouldn't be any problem doing what you mention though(antifreeze-use-antifreeze-use-etc...). That way you don't have to bother fogging the motor, charging the battery, etc...

Do you get many extended periods of below freezing temps in Dallas? Being from Canada I associate Dallas with warm weather, not freezing temps!

 

[robertm]

Thanks for the input. I def. plan on using alum friendly and env. friendly antifreeze. The cost difference is insignificant in the scheme of things.

As far as freezing down here in Dallas, we get probably 5 freezes a year. They usually last 5-10 hrs. We might get a whole day below freezing but its rare. It almost always hovers right at 32 too. We never get 20 deg or anything like that.

In fact, this weekend its supposed to be upper 70s. Will probably take the boat out Sat

 

[CAT-MAN]

attach 1 end of garden hose to flush port -- attach other end of garden hose to the gallon of antifreez -- start ski -- raise jug to shoulder height -- run 10 seconds till you see it come out of exhaust port -- lower jug - kill ski--
3 minutes tops

 

[seadoosnipe]

Back flush?.......

In the scenerio that you are using for winterizing, in theory, it should work. As long as you are hooked up to the back flush port, running the anti-freeze backward through the ski. But you don't have to start it.

 

[tresvatos1]

How can you heat your engine compartment in the winter freezing nights without having the
risk of some type of fire, or explosion.

I believe Sea doo Snipe says he has done this, but it seems like it would e a bit of a fire hazard.

 

[kustomkarl]

A light bulb would be enough to keep the engine compartment from freezing and not much of a hazard or a fire. This would only work if it is just near freezing...not say 20*f...

Karl

 

[imnothot02]

All i do is run a gallon thru my flush hose, this is what was recommended to me, friend has done it for years on all his stuff, no problems...

 

[CAT-MAN]

Snipes

I am confused -- how can it be a "back flush" if when on the hose you run the motor to rinse out the ski -- with the ski running wouldn't it be sucking in the flush port to the intercooler to the exhaust and out the ski?
does the flush port and the pump join tegether and then continue on up to the intercooler then exhaust pipe?

cat-man

 

[seadoosnipe]

4-tec?

This thread is about the 2 strokes, not your 4-TEC. Back flushing to remove deposits from your engine is just that. You are starting your flush on the cooling water outlet of the engine, running backward through the head, down into the cylinders and up through the manifold. Then, around the tuned pipe and back through the top of the head (that helps protect against detonation) and out through the pump.

I answered your thread about this topic too. You have anti-freeze in your engine. You are not backflushing the engine, just the tuned pipe and intercooler assembly if applicable.

As Karl states, I too use a light bulb. But you have to be careful with your fuel tank near by and know by the smell, that you don't have fuel in your bilges. This is used mostly in the south where hard freezes don't happen.

In using the water hose, I think the idea of putting it in your hose, then shooting it thru would work just fine. All the water is going to drain out except for little pockets. What is left will have anti freeze, so in theory, I think you'd be just fine.:cheers:

 

[CAT-MAN]

Snipe

4 tech clears some of it up
with the rxp -- correct me if I am wrong -- but the intake grate forces water up to the ic then exhaust mainfold then out the pipe. (seems clear)

but the flush port has me confused -- does that port join in with the intake grate hose and continue up the same way?

how come water does not come out the flush port while under way (maybe a check valve)

thanks alot

cat-man

 

[seadoosnipe]

Intake grate?........

The water supply is actually taken off the nozzle end of your pump. At the back of the hull, there should be about a 1/2" water line coming in, going to your exhaust and intercooler (SCIC). When the ski is running, water from the open loop cooling system exits the ski through the exhaust. As for the tell-tale, I'm not sure if they have one or not. I would think so. I don't have a 4-TEC to look at and the manuals are technical, not much to do on the hull components..............:cheers:

 

[imnothot02]

eh if it cracks my heads by not doing it forwards and back ubside down and touch my toes way, then its a excuse to upgrade to a new boat!

 

[seadoosnipe]

....what?

Sorry, you lost me on that one......

 

[imnothot02]

i was sying that runing antifreeze thru the flush line should be good, the manual says to take off three hoses ect, if not time for a new boat

 

[seadoosnipe]

different steps....

The manuals go through the storage procedures in the cooling system because there are ways for the coolant to drain out before flooding the engine. The 947, 787, 717, 657 and 587 engines pretty much all have different cooling circuit flows. The principle is all the same. But each engine has something different, whether it's the cooling line at the magneto on the 947 or the water injection at the tuned exhuast, the steps should be followed. In the few post above, the ideas that some of the members have come up with, in theory, seem like they will work............:cheers: