Another 3d starting issue/solenoid question.

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cruisin

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Ok I have read numerous threads about starting issues last year I had trouble sometimes starting the ski in the water this year I cannot get it to turn over. I thought I had it narrowed down to the solenoid so I bought another one because it would have been an easy fix. I have also cleaned the ground going to the block so I don’t think that’s it. I have a good 12 volts on the battery side of the solenoid with a good charge to the battery when I hit the starter I get roughly 3-4 volts on the starter side of the solenoid while I have a good 12 on the other side. My volt meter negative is going straight to the battery and is still getting the low voltage.

I checked the continuity of the solenoid and it is good so I am stumped any ideas on what would cause the voltage drop? I have checked all fuses and connections. I pulled the plugs and the starter would sometimes spin the motor but not always. I have yet to pull the starter and play with it because it seems like it will be super hard to get out. But I suppose that will be my next step unless anyone has any ideas.

Thanks in advance
 
Ok I have read numerous threads about starting issues last year I had trouble sometimes starting the ski in the water this year I cannot get it to turn over. I thought I had it narrowed down to the solenoid so I bought another one because it would have been an easy fix. I have also cleaned the ground going to the block so I don’t think that’s it. I have a good 12 volts on the battery side of the solenoid with a good charge to the battery when I hit the starter I get roughly 3-4 volts on the starter side of the solenoid while I have a good 12 on the other side. My volt meter negative is going straight to the battery and is still getting the low voltage.

I checked the continuity of the solenoid and it is good so I am stumped any ideas on what would cause the voltage drop? I have checked all fuses and connections. I pulled the plugs and the starter would sometimes spin the motor but not always. I have yet to pull the starter and play with it because it seems like it will be super hard to get out. But I suppose that will be my next step unless anyone has any ideas.

Thanks in advance

It is possible for a serious voltage drop on the starter side when there is a short inside the starter. The short is not like a traditional short where you put a wrong wire onto the ground or positive and is sparks big time. The windings inside a starter can absorb voltage but not use it.

Remove the wire on the starter side of the solenoid and see if the voltage jumps back up to 12 volts when trying to start it. If so, the issue is at the starter. If not, new solenoid or not, the issue is there. It could still be a ground as well but not likely as you are getting 12 volts to the battery side...
 
My vote is for a new battery. I just replaced the battery in my lawn mower (after 12 1/2 years--no lie). It would have 12V static, hit the key--right to almost 1v. Let off the key, back to 12v. I load tested it with my digital tester and my 500CCA battery was only putting out a mere 45CCA. I know you say it's charged, but how old is it.
 
To be clear,,,

I assumed you had 12 volts on the battery side of the solenoid while pressing the start button. Is this the case or not?

If it drops to around 10.5 or so the MPEM can't operate.. Around 11 volts the starter will likely not engage.
 
Yes I have 12 volts on the battery side. I thought it was a battery issue as well so I replaced the battery with a new unit.
 
Ok I have 12 volts starter side with starter wire disconnected. Now the fun begins trying to access the starter!
 
Ok I have 12 volts starter side with starter wire disconnected. Now the fun begins trying to access the starter!

Ok. If you want to be nearly 100% on the issue. I would put the wire back on ad check the voltage again. I assume it will be near the 4 volt range. If do, unbolt the wire from the starter and check it at the solenoid and the end near the starter.

Just want to make sure you don't have a bad cable there. And you shouldn't based on the serious voltage drop on the starter side of the solenoid.
 
The saga continues... I finally got the starter removed I tested it and it was weak so I purchased a new starter got it back on the ski and same thing. I am stumped. Now that I have replaced both the starter and solenoid what else could it be? If the solenoid was not getting the full 12v signal would it be possible that it was not opening up fully to let the full 12v pass through? I can't see where I can get a volt meter on the signal wire to check.

Starter cable when not hooked to starter has full 12v
If I cross the solenoid the starter will spin the motor so it has to be at the solenoid
 
It doesn't HAVE to be. But it likely is.

Test for voltage at the yellow wire on the solenoid when pressing the start switch.

If you have volts it is the solenoid. No volts it is something if front of it. Such as the switch, DESS/key/lanyard, MPEM.
 
Ok showing 11.5v on yellow wire when hitting start. I had to unplug it from solenoid to get the reading so it could be different when plugged in. If the signal is not a full 12v is it possible the solenoid is not opening up fully and only sending partial power to starer?
 
Ok showing 11.5v on yellow wire when hitting start. I had to unplug it from solenoid to get the reading so it could be different when plugged in. If the signal is not a full 12v is it possible the solenoid is not opening up fully and only sending partial power to starer?

Though I feel you should be seeing nearly what your battery voltage is, 11.5 is enough to operate the solenoid I believe.

I think you got a defective solenoid even though it is new.

Humor me,,,

Without charging the battery, what is the voltage now? Then what I the voltage at the start wire at the solenoid?
 
12.4 volts at battery and at solenoid. Remains constant even when trying to start. Suppose I will try another solenoid if that does not work my only option is to find a dealer.

By the way thanks for the help.
 
12.4 volts at battery and at solenoid. Remains constant even when trying to start. Suppose I will try another solenoid if that does not work my only option is to find a dealer.

By the way thanks for the help.

I am certain we have the right part or area. I say that as, it can be a poor connection issue.

I would run a separate ground to the ground terminal I the solenoid. Why? It could be the issue and an extra ground will NEVER hurt.

I meant to check the voltage at the yellow wire which is what activates the solenoid. I am curious how large of a drop there is from your 12.4 volts.
 
Ok replaced the solenoid again and same thing. I am thinking the 11.5 v to activate the solenoid is just not enought to fully engage. Have started going through the wires it has to be a bad connection somewhere. It looks like there might be a voltage drop at the vcm? All connections look good though
 
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