• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

(another) 2005 RXT Start issues...

Status
Not open for further replies.
S

SamNJax

Member
Hi guys. So I've been searching and reading the past hour or so but I haven't found what I'm looking for. Basically, I have a 2005 RXT with about 90-ish hours on it (used in salt, flushed after each ride). The last two times I've taken it out... It would start in the garage... it would start when i launched it... But then I would drive around and dock it to wait for friends... and no start. I just got the click. So, I replaced the starter relay and the battery was replaced last year. I have a few questions:

1) At different times, it seems I would get just a single "click" when hitting the start button... but most of the time it's many clicks. Is that the relay clicking or what? I thought it was the relay... however, it happened again this weekend after replacing the relay last weekend... So I used a screwdriver to short the posts on top of the relay and I still got a click, but nothing else. Is the single click or multiple clicks the "right" sound ?

2) Should I start looking at replacing the starter? And can anyone point me to a right up (with pics!) for this? I searched the forums but couldn't find anything on replacing it.

Thanks guys,
Sam.
 
If your battery is good which it should be, make sure it's fully charged. If all that is good I'm willing to bet the starter, once it warms up, draws more juice than the battery can provide. That tells me your starter is getting ready to check out. Is this a factory replacement starter or could it be a cheap aftermarket. The cheaper aftermarket units have almost always been a problem that has you chasing your tail, even when brand new.
 
I'm guessing starter as well. I bought this ski used so I can only assume it's the original starter. I'm going to try to take it out tonight and test it.
 
I'm thinking starter as well.

But, I would do the following to confirm it.

Get a meter and read the voltage while trying to start it and post the reading. If near 12 then I would clean EVERY connection pertaining to grounds and hot wires. Twist the wires, feel for crunchyness and look for white powder. If either ie present replace the cables. Especially true in salt water environments. Once cleaned, if still no start you need a starter.

The advantage to doing the cables is, it is good maintenance and helps to prevent future issues.
 
Hopefully someone with more experience with starters will chime in and tell you how to distinguish the aftermarket from the factory unit. It may test fine on the bench but when you re install it you can have the same problem. I'm not sure how much draw its supposed to have. Also it may be 100% within spec while at room temp on the bench also which from what it sounds isn't when you're having problems.
 
Sam, you probably have a starter problem if all your terminal connections are clean (check them, including the 3 lines that ground to the engine block behind the battery). If the terminal connections are all nice and clean, the cables aren't crunchy or crusty, and you've already replaced the battery (a year ago) and the starter relay, then it's time to pull the starter out. Most any automotive electric shop can test it for you and probably rebuild it if needed for A LOT less than buying a new starter! Look for auto shops that rebuild alternators and starters, you may need to ask around but I'm sure there's at least 1 in your area you can take it to.

To get the starter off, you pretty much have to remove that exhaust manifold (fun, fun!). Plan on spending an afternoon getting the exhaust manifold off and out of the way so you can reach the starter. Again, check the battery cables and make sure they're good too!!!

You may also be able to take the starter to an auto parts store and they can test if for you for free, though they probably cannot get a replacement for it nor rebuild it.

Good luck!

- Michael
 
It is not uncommon to pull a starter and for it to work on the bench.

When bolted up they get hot and expand. When they expand they create internal issues and not work.

If you pull it, no matter what rebuild it. It is cheap and well worth it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I just posted a solution. Test you battery before recharging. Stress test that put a load on it. The battery will start once then not. If this sounds familiar, then replace with a lead acid AGM sealed battery. When the battery gets bounced around air gets to the plates of a vented lead acid battery. Air corrodes. The sealed battery will never get low or let air in. The AGM puts out 300 more amps, so at the battery will still work when it gets older.
 
Don't replace anything but the battery. I just went through the same thing. 2004 RXP 215 supercharged. The battery seamed good, but it is not. The new AGM battery puts out 600amps.
 
Just had the same problem with one of my 05rxt's. I'm with Aircraftdoc. My battery was fully charged, but tested bad on the machine at auto zone. Test it first!!
 
Before you start ripping it all apart, I would make absolutely sure the battery is good. It is the most vulnerable item in the starting circuit, due to the abuse it takes pounding around in the waves.

Was the battery replaced with the factory YUASA battery or one that just fits? These batteries and some of the high end aftermarket batteries are internally reinforced to take the abuse but the plates can still be moved around inside the battery. Even though it tests good with a voltmeter, it still might be unable to take the load of successive start attempts. You said you started in the garage, then started at launch and then wouldn't start after parking at the dock. A good battery will handle that, but one with not enough cranking power or internal damage will not.
 
OK, so I charged up the battery to 100% (according to the charger)... Plugged in the key, hit the button. Got a single click, then the screen went blank. Tried a few more times, taking the key off and putting it back on... nothing. no Beeps, no screen, no nothing. So maybe this is the MPEM and has nothing to do with the starting system ?
 
You're shorting somewhere Sam... some connection somewhere is shorting out, not making good contact when power to turn the starter is pulled across it.

Have you ran the battery by an auto parts store to have them test it on one of their machines, just to make sure it's in good working order? It should be with only a year of use, but defects do happen and it's an easy thing to go have checked before digging into the wiring further. Have you done anything with the starter or the main power cables and grounds? What have you tried (besides charing to 100% on your charger as per your last post) since the other day when you posted asking about starter rebuild kits?

- Michael
 
So, I tested the relay with a meter to make sure it worked. Kept trying to start it. Sometimes I wouldn't even get the beeps. Sometimes i would pull the key but the screen would stay on for a few sec. Sometimes it wouldn't come on at all. I checked the two main fuses (30amp) and replaced one that wasn't blown but was slightly corroded. Pressed start and it started. Turned it off. Wouldn't start again. (LOL). So I kept looking. I checked the other fuses in the MPEM. All good. I finally realized that this very slight humming sound was the starter spinning. So I don't think that's the problem. I kept playing around. I figured I'd hook the charger back up since I kept trying to start it. It was about 80%. While it was charging I was checking some of the connections around the MPEM and I noticed that the ground cable on the batter moved slightly. So I pulled on it... and it moved A LOT. DAMN IT!!!! So quick turn of the screw driver and BAM. Started right up. I feel retarded. Anyway... Thanks for all of the comments guys. :-)
 
I'm just glad to hear you found the culprit and fixed it finally. Cool beans! Now you can enjoy your upcoming weekend I bet (weather permitting as always). Have a great one!

- Michael
 
Post number 4. Clean every connection,,,,

It is one of the most common issues out there.

It creates a low amperage situation. Without the correct amps, electronics do not work properly. Volts are a concern as well. But I bet you always had 12 volts, just not the amps to push it and keep it at 12 volts.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

J
2020 wake 170 not turning over
Replies
3
Views
282
drdjekill
D
J
Sea-Doo Wake Pro 230hp 2021 Engine Won’t Turn Over After Rope Jam
Replies
2
Views
356
dcm0123
D
B
2005 RXT Battery drain issue
Replies
3
Views
296
skiasylum
skiasylum
S
2005 Seadoo RXT Fault code P1502...Help
Replies
3
Views
413
mkov608
mkov608
V
Troubleshooting RXT 215 Starting Issues
Replies
4
Views
378
maXjrNC
maXjrNC
Back
Top