Anchor size for 14' speedster?
- Thread starter btgignac
- Start date
For sandy bottoms, an anchor with flukes is the way to go. Normally called a "Danforth Anchor". They will literally bury themselves to the point where you won't even see any part of the anchor other than the metal shaft that connects to them.
The size is mostly dependent on the type of water you plan on anchoring in. By that, smooth, rough, choppy, or tidal flow waters. Since it is a jet boat, I am going for mostly smooth conditions. The weight of the anchor is not as important as the design. Which brings us back to the Danforth design, For example, a 5-pound Danforth can easily hold 1000 pounds of pull.
You will want two anchors to some degree. In the case of a sandbar, you want your better one away from the shore as the water will be doing most of the pushing force. If it is a very windy day, then you would reverse the anchors. Your second anchor can be as simple as one of the kinds that you screw onto the beach shore as it will be for lateral force. This assumes you can stand there and thread it in and not have to hold your breath doing so....
I had a 27 foot Sea Ray full cabin cruiser with twin 292's I/O's and I had a 14 pound Danforth and it was perfect. Light weight and did a fantastic job. One thing a Danforth anchor does like is LOTS of line to get it to really bite into the sand. Once it does so, you can shorten the line a bit if you so desire. The less angle of the scope of the line the better it grabs.
Length of line will very drastically based on the weather and wave condition you want to anchor in. Seven to one (7:1) is the normal ratio and will cover most normal applications. This means, you want seven time the distance you will be anchoring in. So, if you are anchoring in 20 feet of water, you want 140 feet of line. In rough water this needs to jump to 12:1. The reality for our ski's is closer to 4:1. So in the case of a jet boat I would think the 5 time the depth should do what you want.
If you put chain from the anchor line to the anchor itself you can shorten the line as it will force the main shaft of the anchor to lay on the sand causing it to bite mush sooner and better. So with chain you could likely drop to 3:1. But personally I would never carry anything less than 5:1 on any boat.
One more thing, well, make that two...
1). Line size. As a general rule 3/8 line is good to about 4400 pounds of breaking force.
2). Shackle. You will want a shackle from the line to the anchor. This will prevent the line from being sliced off the anchor as the anchor often has square edges where it attaches to the main shaft of the anchor. They make "Anchor Lines" that have a metal eye at the end of them, they are the way to go as they are designed to take the abuse that comes with anchoring.
Does this help or clear as mud???
The size is mostly dependent on the type of water you plan on anchoring in. By that, smooth, rough, choppy, or tidal flow waters. Since it is a jet boat, I am going for mostly smooth conditions. The weight of the anchor is not as important as the design. Which brings us back to the Danforth design, For example, a 5-pound Danforth can easily hold 1000 pounds of pull.
You will want two anchors to some degree. In the case of a sandbar, you want your better one away from the shore as the water will be doing most of the pushing force. If it is a very windy day, then you would reverse the anchors. Your second anchor can be as simple as one of the kinds that you screw onto the beach shore as it will be for lateral force. This assumes you can stand there and thread it in and not have to hold your breath doing so....
I had a 27 foot Sea Ray full cabin cruiser with twin 292's I/O's and I had a 14 pound Danforth and it was perfect. Light weight and did a fantastic job. One thing a Danforth anchor does like is LOTS of line to get it to really bite into the sand. Once it does so, you can shorten the line a bit if you so desire. The less angle of the scope of the line the better it grabs.
Length of line will very drastically based on the weather and wave condition you want to anchor in. Seven to one (7:1) is the normal ratio and will cover most normal applications. This means, you want seven time the distance you will be anchoring in. So, if you are anchoring in 20 feet of water, you want 140 feet of line. In rough water this needs to jump to 12:1. The reality for our ski's is closer to 4:1. So in the case of a jet boat I would think the 5 time the depth should do what you want.
If you put chain from the anchor line to the anchor itself you can shorten the line as it will force the main shaft of the anchor to lay on the sand causing it to bite mush sooner and better. So with chain you could likely drop to 3:1. But personally I would never carry anything less than 5:1 on any boat.
One more thing, well, make that two...
1). Line size. As a general rule 3/8 line is good to about 4400 pounds of breaking force.
2). Shackle. You will want a shackle from the line to the anchor. This will prevent the line from being sliced off the anchor as the anchor often has square edges where it attaches to the main shaft of the anchor. They make "Anchor Lines" that have a metal eye at the end of them, they are the way to go as they are designed to take the abuse that comes with anchoring.
Does this help or clear as mud???
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Thanks Lou..
If you want, I can add a few details to it.. Like how much line based on depth if you want.
Appreciate the compliment..
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Sure, what ever you can add would be helpful. I've owned watercraft in some form since I was 16, and anchoring has always been a mystery to me.
Lou
ocod
Well-Known Member
X2 Danforth
I love watching that one guy throwing anchor out.
:facepalm:
If you drive up to shallow, just drive up close and cut engine off. Then jump off/in and put your danforth in the sand.
Pop open beer and light the grill.
I find the mushrooms are not enough where there are heavy waves or current. I'm constantly fighting with my 1800 Sportster at sandbar
If its deep water, that danforth will catch ocean bottom once you start to drag boat in reverse while letting line out.
Like Coastie mentioned adding chain to anchor b/w will help keep you anchored while boat's bow is bobbing up/down in open water.
Find the deepest water you plan to go to and buy length needed.
Rolling up 500' of rope to never be in water deeper than 25' isn't worth it.
But you can never have enough sometimes...........
That is a great post Coastie!
Def gets my vote on sticky.
Mushroom anchors work fantastic in mud type bottoms.
They can work great in sand too but you have to allow for substantial time for the sand to suck them down before you put a load on them.
They can work great in sand too but you have to allow for substantial time for the sand to suck them down before you put a load on them.
It would also be worth looking at a Coopers anchor. Very light but work very well. Just got a 1.5kg one for my speedster 200 and works well. While they suggest going bigger, I think the small draft allows me to use the smaller anchor. http://cooperanchors.com.au/
lineofsight
Member
Found screw anchor to remain set longer when used in conjunction with bungee dock line to absorb some of the movement.
My 210 Challenger has an anchor locker in the bow made to fit a 8.5 pound Danforth type anchor - is a Seadoo marketed one that is vinyl coated. Use pipe insulation around the edges to isolate the hull from vibration / impact. Have about a 30 foot length of chain to help its orientation on the bottom and also bite. Generally just drop the anchor over the edge and back / drift the boat into it to set it.
If plan to connect to a buoy you may want to carry your own stainless carabiner as the ones attached to the buoy tend to be rusted and scrape your ring or are deformed which prevents the gate from closing.
My 210 Challenger has an anchor locker in the bow made to fit a 8.5 pound Danforth type anchor - is a Seadoo marketed one that is vinyl coated. Use pipe insulation around the edges to isolate the hull from vibration / impact. Have about a 30 foot length of chain to help its orientation on the bottom and also bite. Generally just drop the anchor over the edge and back / drift the boat into it to set it.
If plan to connect to a buoy you may want to carry your own stainless carabiner as the ones attached to the buoy tend to be rusted and scrape your ring or are deformed which prevents the gate from closing.
I have a 99 Sportster 1800 and this is my favorite anchor of all I have tried, that still fits under the front bow seat.
http://www.academy.com/webapp/wcs/s...g-_-Google-_-Marine+Raider+20+lb.+Navy+Anchor
It has about 6 ft of chain on it too!!!
It's a bear, but it holds in sand or mud, or anything else...
http://www.academy.com/webapp/wcs/s...g-_-Google-_-Marine+Raider+20+lb.+Navy+Anchor
It has about 6 ft of chain on it too!!!
It's a bear, but it holds in sand or mud, or anything else...
I see this is an old thread, but I'm an old man...LOL.. I wanted to add something real quick, since I read the idea of using "2" anchors. Never anchor the front and back of boat, unless your in protected water, such as a small lake. The boat should always be able to move, keeping the bow in the wind. If you anchor the front and back, then your setting yourself up to take water on from the back of the boat, with shifting winds, possibly swamping.
Also, I kept reading to see when the "chain" was going to be mentioned. There is a formula for how much chain to rope your suppose to use, to hold the anchor's position, but with skis and jetboats, I don't think it's that important. As it was pointed out, the chain basically ensures the anchor digs itself into the bottom. When you anchor, the depth, line and degree you anchor, is key to keep your boat still. I believe, when you toss your anchor in, it's supposed to have a 15 to 20 degree angle, for maximum holding power... But, I think, with our lightweight boats/skis, it's overkill.
Also, I kept reading to see when the "chain" was going to be mentioned. There is a formula for how much chain to rope your suppose to use, to hold the anchor's position, but with skis and jetboats, I don't think it's that important. As it was pointed out, the chain basically ensures the anchor digs itself into the bottom. When you anchor, the depth, line and degree you anchor, is key to keep your boat still. I believe, when you toss your anchor in, it's supposed to have a 15 to 20 degree angle, for maximum holding power... But, I think, with our lightweight boats/skis, it's overkill.
uraceulose
Member
What an awesome post. Thank you guys!
alkiseadoo
Member
I just bought a Bruce anchor for my Challenger, I used them on my Sea Rays I owned in the past and I think they hold a little better than the danforth. Plus they are easier to stow. They are cheaper now that the patent has expired.
Steve762us
Member
The 15' hulls don't need big anchors, a danforth with 10-12" flukes will do fine.
Use 5' or so of chain, control the anchor line as you lower it, so anchor hits
bottom first and chain lays out properly. Stern anchoring can be dangerous--
a lot of capsized/sunk boats were due to stern anchoring.
Use 5' or so of chain, control the anchor line as you lower it, so anchor hits
bottom first and chain lays out properly. Stern anchoring can be dangerous--
a lot of capsized/sunk boats were due to stern anchoring.
MikunisFromHell
Member
I have the 14.5 sportster. It doesnt take much. I use a plasti-dipped 20 lb anchor from walmart (which is probably too much). I have some of that 3/8” poly rope from harbor freight. It floats. I once broke down and dropped anchor to wait for a tow. I had 3 people on board and it was windy. I let all 75’ of rode out in about 6’ of water and it held tight.
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