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Almost there!

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Strizzo

Strizzo

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Almost ready to fire the 95 gtx up that I bought back at the beginning of the month. Changed fuel lines Monday night and tonight I changed the oil filter and installed/primed new injection lines, and mounted the carbs that came back from dr. Honda. I had a bit of a time synching the oil pump because someone at some point installed the oil pump cable upside down. Yes, the cable, upside down. it didn't make sense to me at first why the little lead barrel was on the carb side and not on the pump arm, but didn't think much of it until I couldn't get enough slack in the cable to align the marks on the pump. I started to quit for the night and went inside, then realized what must have been done, went back out and fixed the cable and adjusted the oil pump to where it should have been. Whew!

Tomorrow I plan to finish putting the air box on and fill the fuel tank with fresh gas(what do I do with the old stuff?), then see if it will come to life. Pretty exciting to think that this had been sitting for around 5 years before the previous owner (I believe they are either the first or second owners, title was issued in 96) decided to sell it, and now it will be back on the water again. I'll post pics tomorrow when I have it out of the garage for the test fire. After that, changing the pump oil and a wash and it's lake time on Friday. Wish me luck.
 
I would put the screen part on top of the carbs but leave the football (air box) off for now so you can more easily make some little adjustments. I would do your first wet test with the seat off so you can watch for any water leaks. Some leaks only show up between 3/4 and full throttle because that's when the water pressure is highest.

I dump the old fuel that I siphon out of Seadoos in my work trucks. They are old and smokey and have 45Gallon tanks so it gets well deluded.

Good catch on the oil cable. However even with the system bled out it takes a minute to fill those new oil lines. I would do your first start with a fuel line coming from a little can of mixed gas. Then reach down and hold the oiler to it's wide open position with engine only idling. Watch as the small 3/32 oil lines both fill up completely. Now hook the inlet nipple of your carbs to the fresh/straight gas in your tank. This will eliminate running this thing dry as a bone right after it sat for 5 years.

Pump oil is a must but you probably will have to do a wear ring also. The wet test will reveal all that. Good luck!! I love saving old Doos.
 
@matt - thanks, i will put the old gas in my truck before i fill up next. i did prime the 3/32 lines as well by pulling the plugs and turning it over with the starter a few seconds at a time until they were full to the manifold. in between i put some oil down the intake manifold and down the plug holes to make sure things were lubed up good. once i get it fired today i'll start pulling the parts off the back for the pump oil change. it will probably need a wear ring, there are a few chunks missing from it, but around the impeller it is all there with close clearance so we'll see. its been sitting for several years so it could be all dried out and come apart as soon as it hits the water. there are huge globs of sealant around the pump, so i'm not looking forward to pulling it off, to be honest.

@Dr. Honda - thanks, i was about to message you about the pump cable before i figured out the issue, i'll let you know if i run into any issues. i did also take your advice and added a clear fuel filter before the carbs so i can see if anything nasty makes it through the system.
 
Those missing chunks mean your wear is past it like I thought. When you put the power to it the rest of that dry plastic will blow right out the back. You will know when it won't go good and you will be hitting your rev limit during acceleration.

Sounds like you have thought this out well and are doing a great job. I bet Honda's carbs are perfect, you probably will only have to set your idle.
 
Matt Braley said:
Those missing chunks mean your wear is past it like I thought. When you put the power to it the rest of that dry plastic will blow right out the back. You will know when it won't go good and you will be hitting your rev limit during acceleration.

Sounds like you have thought this out well and are doing a great job. I bet Honda's carbs are perfect, you probably will only have to set your idle.
Click to expand...

Dr. did my carbs also, you're right ...all i needed to do was set the idle a tad higher. I also adjusted the throttle cable so it opens the carbs all the way....it was about 1/4 inch short before. My GTX is running the best ever in the 6 yrs I've had it.
 
Seadoobuddy said:
Dr. did my carbs also, you're right ...all i needed to do was set the idle a tad higher. I also adjusted the throttle cable so it opens the carbs all the way....it was about 1/4 inch short before. My GTX is running the best ever in the 6 yrs I've had it.
Click to expand...

yeah, probably the reason the motor is in as good of shape as it is could be due to the oil pump cable being installed wrong, the lever was at about 1/4 throttle at idle, and would bind up and stop the throttle from opening much past 3/4 throttle. so running around at 3/4 throttle max with the oil pump running wide open, not good for spark plugs, but probably why the original engine still has 150psi in both holes.
 
Success!

Well, it fired and ran today. at first, before i started the video, i cranked it with the choke to prime the fuel lines, when i saw the fuel filter fill with fuel, I thought i heard it kick, but no fire... strange, it has fuel and air, almost like it doesn't have spark? OH YEAH, forgot to tighten down the spark plugs and put the plug wires back on, lol. After I did that, it kicked over right away on choke, then fired off with a little throttle on the next go. i had set the idle screw all the way out when i was trying to figure out the oil pump cable issue last night, so i knew i would have to adjust the idle up once it got running.

anyways, here's the video of technically its second start up since I didn't feel like taking a video of me fiddling with stuff on the first one. thanks again to Dr. Honda and everyone here for all of the knowledge on the board.

[video=youtube_share;K6DsMPXb2ZY]http://youtu.be/K6DsMPXb2ZY[/video]

the video is still uploading, should be live in 20 minutes or so.
 
Yeah that's a good clean hull and well worth saving. You just can't beat that kind of family fun. That GTX is lucky it fell into the right hands. Now buy that thing a wear ring and enjoy!
 
Matt Braley said:
Yeah that's a good clean hull and well worth saving. You just can't beat that kind of family fun. That GTX is lucky it fell into the right hands. Now buy that thing a wear ring and enjoy!
Click to expand...

already done, picked up a wear ring from the local dealer at lunch, but had to order the neoprene seal from osdparts. don't think it'll be here in time for friday, but the goal is really just to make sure everything is working right on the water.
 
Ok I have a query now. I'm working on getting the pump off to change the wear ring, it started disintegrating after the run on the hose. It is indeed all dried out. I have the hoses off, and the pump mounting nuts off, and I can't tell if I have the sealant broken loose or not, because Im not sure if the driveshaft has to come out with the pump or if I don't have to undo the oetiker clamp and all the other bits from the pto and the impeller should just slide off the shaft like the one on my xp did. I know it's a little different than the carbon ring equipped skis, just trying to not have to do uneccesary work. Anyways, I'm done for today, hoping to get this part sorted so I can still lake test on Friday. Fingers crossed.
 
Yes it should come off. You can give the pto a couple shots of grease to get the shaft pushing in your direction. make sure you have all the washers off from under the pump nuts and spray with PB blaster(I like Sea Foam Deep Creep). I have a flat head screwdriver with a 90 bent in the end of it so I can pry a little on all four pump corners until I get some movement. Then you should be able to grab the whole pump with both hand and give it a violent shake/pull. Sometime the shaft will come with and sometimes not. Make sure the shaft has both little rubber bumpers on it and of coarse note the location of any pump shims if it has them.
 
The manual says to undo the oetiker clamp as well, I don't have the tools to put that back on, so I'm a bit nervous about unhooking it I've only attacked these things with the intent to kill and replace with a worm clamp on the fuel lines, so re-attaching would be a new challenge.


now that i'm awake edit: i know the driveshaft CAN come off with the pump if I undo the PTO boot and all, but Dr. Honda's wear ring how-to just says to pull the pump off the the back of the ski after undoing the hoses, removing the reverse bucket, steering nozzle and venturi. I can move the impeller shaft in and out in its play in the pump on the shaft, so i am pretty sure that its not rusted to the shaft. I'd really rather not have to pull the driveshaft out if I don't have to.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well I got it off tonight, ended up putting a 2x4 across the back of the hull and hooking a ratchet strap to the Venturi and cranking it down to break it free from the rtv and the wear ring that was stuck to the neoprene seal. There were actually pieces of the wear ring rubber that was stuck to the neoprene seal. The neoprene seal itself looks to be in ok shape, not torn or missing any pieces, how do I know if I can reuse it? The impeller looks to have been serviced fairly recently, the leading edges of the blades have been reshaped and are still in good shape.

I got the old wear ring out and have put the new one in. If I can reuse this neoprene seal I could put it back together and mount and fill the pump tomorrow.
 
Well it's back together again now. Decided to reuse the neoprene ring as it was not damaged or missing any pieces. Had the pleasure of having the rtv tube spring a leak and squirt sealant all over my hand, that was good fun. I was having a pretty heated argument with the oetiker clamp on the pto boot trying to get it back on. I was about to order one from amazon with 1day shipping until I decided to try to find a small 90 degree nipper pliers. Finally found in a 3 pack with two other mini pliers for 8 bucks, I had the clamp back together within 5 minutes of getting home. Also had to make runs for a pipe fitting to pressure test the pump with, and bailer tube o-rings. btw for anyone wondering, the fill plug on the cone is 1/4" NPT. While I was at ace for the o rings, I picked up some more oil injector line so I can swap out the lines on the xp over the winter while the carbs are off for a cleaning and rebuilding.

Hopefully by the end of the weekend I'll have some go pro video from the lake test, the weather will just have to cooperate in order to make it happen.
 
Just curious as to what you call weather cooperation??? What is the minimum temp you are willing to brave to go ridin??
 
manolocross said:
Just curious as to what you call weather cooperation??? What is the minimum temp you are willing to brave to go ridin??
Click to expand...

Temp isn't the issue, rained all afternoon yesterday and all night, and we're supposed to get more today. It's about 45 minutes to the lake, so the weather needs to look pretty good to make the trip.
 
Didn't get to the lake on Friday, but did get the pump back on and everything back together. I also picked up a heat gun from harbor freight and brought the corner bumpers back to life on both skis, and installed new blacktip mats on my xp.

before:
8.jpg


after:
9.jpg


the vents on the rear of the seat also got all their color back via the heat gun, really pleased with the results.
 
Took off last friday to take advantage of the nice weather we've been having down here, good thing i did, since a cool front came through on saturday and its been in the 50s and 60s all weekend, plus we're out of town for a wedding. I got some gopro video from the ride on the water, not terribly exciting, but did get a few 180s and "jumped" one boat wake i think in there. as expected the Dr. Honda rebuilt carbs had it running flawless, all i had to do was set the idle a tad higher. i got a quick pic of the ski after i got home as well.

128.jpg


[video=youtube;o8oy9Vy12aI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8oy9Vy12aI&feature=youtu.be[/video]
 
bringing this back from the dead for an update. thanks to minnetonka and a few (probably too many) drinks at the bar while waiting on a delayed flight in little rock, i have two working and readable gauges on the GTX. the speedometer was cracked and not working, and the lcd on the gas gauge was burned out so you could barely read it. i found a NOS speedometer on ebay, and ordered one of nick's unfaded multi gauges. i just got back into town today and installed them, and am really pleased with it. i decided to go with the best condition gauges since the rest of the ski is in such good shape. plugged everything in and found that the speed sensor indeed does still work and it and the multi gauge look great.

photo 1.jpgphoto 2.jpg
 
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