!995 seadoo gtx frozen exhaust bolt/ nut!!

[Todd083]

Im currently replacing the cylinder jugs and pistons/rings on my 1995 gtx. It has been going pretty smooth for me except for problem. Where the tuned pipe connects the exhaust manifold. I got 3 out of the 4 off no problem. There is one where the tuned pipe over hangs and its connected with a stud and a nut . The nut if frozen on there. They only thing i can get on it is a wrench. The wrench is stripping the nut . I have used wd-40 on the nut and let it soak for a few days. Still doesn't want to move. Im thinking about applying heat to it and trying that way. Would that cause any type of issues? If anyone else has any tricks for this that would be great as well!!

Thank you

 

[mvpsteve]

Nut splitter.

 

[Todd083]

thats a good idea. but unfortuantley there isnt enough clearance to get a nut splitter around the nut.

 

[nhmort]

Pour Coca Cola on it let it sit overnight after a few applications and then put some heat on it.

 

[Todd083]

i will give that a try!!! thank you

 

[Shortrun]

Dremmel tool with a cut off wheel

 

[mvpsteve]

Have you tried a product called PB Blaster? Or, can you get a stud remover on the exposed part of the stud?

 

[hotrodssnova]

Wd40 is not for rusted or frozen fastners. Pb blaster is best for these situations. Since the nut is probably rounded off by now, I would go with the dremmel and cutoff wheel.
When you put it all back together, make sure you use blue lock tite, and replace that nut with a stainless one.

 

[mikidymac]

Apply a little heat from a propane torch. It will release the factory threadlock.

 

[gazza2010au]

If anyone reading this has worked on salt water outboards they will know seized nuts and bolts on marine product is a real pain in the ass to remove

about 2 years ago i had a small powerhead off a 6hp Yamaha outboard but i had snapped the exhaust cover bolts off due to salt entering the bolt threads it was a real pitta to work on

so i thought i would pull out the el-cheapo TIG welder and just set it around 10-20amps and just hover the ARC over the bolt i repeated this 3 times than welded a nut to the broken bolt and wallah success the bolts undone like the threads were lubed with butter haha

i thank picked up a Johnson 225hp outboard and it sheared off the head bolts so i ripped out the camera and recorded how its done

for me i had a DC TIG and MIG on hand so i used a combo of the two, a MIG welder u can pick up for $50 and all u do is point and glue i mean weld :lol: just weld another nut onto your threaded nut and undo it the heat will break the corrosion on the bolt or studs thread

remember if u go this route to disconnect your battery and stator plug going into the electrical box

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASHyr6L64-Y

 

[Todd083]

I just went a bought a can of pb blaster. letting it sit on there as we speak. The nut is pretty much rounded off. I have tried with a dremmel tool but the clearance for the cutoff wheel is to short. I attached a picture so you could see exactly what is going on with it. Im thinking some heat would help break it free?

 

[Spimothy Leary]

that's one ugly bolt,

I've used PB and heat on stubborn bolts/nuts with relatively good success, usually the PB (and a 4' breaker bar) is reserved for those heavily rusted trailer lugs.

 

[wfo speedracer]

At this point I would be looking at a close quarter hacksaw (lots of work, aggravation and cussing ) or a small angle grinder with an abrasive blade.

 

[hotrodssnova]

You might have better luck just pulling the manifold and pipe together. Or saws all at an angle. Stud and nut aren't stainless. You will need to change that after you get it loose

 

[gazza2010au]

I would be tempted to cut thru the washers with a angle grinder if u can fit one in there otherwise a die grinder would be of good use to remove the whole nut and stud down to the exhaust flange than remove the exhaust and use a stud remover on the remaining stud along with heat

Guys in the USA and UK have great little nifty tools for jobs like this but they cost a fair amount to purchase more ideal for commercial mechanics

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZSK2GqmjRA

there are other designs on the market

 

[gman1103]

I would try vise grips after using some heat and PB

 

[wabash]

Heat is good BUT be careful around all that aluminum. I wouldn't do much more than a propane torch. That stud and nut doesn't look like it stainless steel in the pics but it's supposed to be. It very well could be stainless and its rusted from the salt. Low grade stainless will rust just like that. So what that means is besides being rusted it's probably galled. Stainless steel against stainless steel galls easily and looks itself together. In which case heat may not help you at all. Try the heat. Prob need a good set of needle nose vise grips to get a hook on it but you're at a real disadvantage with it being rounded off. I know how tight of a spot this is. Cutting is prob not an option. I think what I'd try, if you're down to just destroying the nut, is drill into the side of the nut with a bit as close to the same diameter as the nut is tall or a little bigger if you can and attempt to split the nut and relieve some pressure off the threads. Then the hole will give you an edge to get a punch into and you can tap it off with a hammer. Like I said last resort but it may be all you got given the cave this nut sits in. Even if you take the manifold and pipe off you still have to get into that pocket to get to the nut. It's often ran though my head when working on these what if that nut seized. Bad day. I put loctite blue on mine but mines fresh water only. I found that if I don't loc tite these nuts they will come loose which is also a bad day. Almost sunk one that way.

 

[gazza2010au]

Keep this in mind for future reference when working on engines use 6 sided sockets and spanners it'll save the heart ache i know by learning the hard way...

Over here a huge majority of our tools available are 12 sided tools for convenience but in reality they cause much more drama's than their convenience

6 sided sockets and spanners have a far better chance of undoing tight nuts and bolts than the 12 sided as the12 sided strip very easily

Here are pictures for reference

 

[Todd083]

Finally got it free !!! After about a half of a can of pb blaster and a small butane torch plus a pair of long nose vice grips. Got it to free up. On with changing out the cylinder jugs and pistons. Thank you to everyone's insight on this!!

 

[wabash]

Gazza that's good info however in this case you can't get to this nut with a socket or even the box end of a combo wrench. The open end is the only way to get to it. Same for the nuts on the carbs on 93-94 657 engines. It's just a bad idea should've never been designed like this but hey it's what we got

Todd083
It's great when a plan comes together eh? I've been in your place many times. Had a few nice words.

 

[hotrodssnova]

Good job! Now pull that stud while you wait on the top end parts. Also go spend the money on a big container of blue lock tite. You're going to need it. Once you get the top end apart, you an go to ace hardware and get all the stainless steel fastness you need.

 

[benjilafouine]

What's the blue stuff all over???

Benji.

 

[hotrodssnova]

Blue stuff? You mean lock tite? On my boat, I put the exhaust together without it, torqued the bolts to spec, and had a massive leak at the manifold to pipe in about 30 min. Won't put an engine together without it. The red will jack up the threads in aluminum, so I only use blue on the bolts. All of them.

 

[mikidymac]

In the photo of the rusted nut there is blue stringy stuff all over, that is what Benji is referring to.

I want to know why the head is covered in white shag carpet?

 

[hotrodssnova]

I bet that was blue permatex. Shag is groovy!