99 SPX continuous turnover

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brandingo_t

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Hoping someone can give me some answers here as I am new to skis and I'm not sure where else to look on this thing.

Ill start off by telling you that the ski died on me Sunday out on the water out of the blue, spit and sputter and then just died and wouldn't turn over, just clicking... OK.. something to do with the starter? So I swapped the starter, then realized I screwed up and didn't just jump the solenoid to check it first. I have since done that and found out it was no good and have replaced the solenoid as well. So I now have a new strong starter as well as a new solenoid. However, when I plug my key in, hit the start button it cranks but continues to crank when I have released the button, then stops and the solenoid is humming. I remove the key however it is still attempting to turnover slightly and is humming. This only stops when I disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
After this all ensues, the negative is extremely hot as well as the starter itself.
Any ideas?
 
Is it still trying to crank when you hook the battery up?

Sounds to me that the MPEM isn't happy, and shorted out somehow.
 
Sounds like a defective solenoid, I hear the cheaper aftermarket ones are a hit or miss. I'll soon find out myself, just ordered one for $12 to replace the dead one on the GTX ski I'm doing a RESTO on.

But on to your ski, when did you get it? was it running up to that point? Maintenance history on it? were the carbs rebuilt recently? Old gray lines replaced? Hours on the ski?

I'm not sure if I'd keep riding it even if you get it to start, may want to at least check out the fuel system and carbs.
 
It could be a bad solenoid... but since it stops when the power is pulled... I'm going to say it's ok. Unfortunately sounds like the MPEM gave out.
 
GGuillot said:
Sounds like a defective solenoid, I hear the cheaper aftermarket ones are a hit or miss. I'll soon find out myself, just ordered one for $12 to replace the dead one on the GTX ski I'm doing a RESTO on.

But on to your ski, when did you get it? was it running up to that point? Maintenance history on it? were the carbs rebuilt recently? Old gray lines replaced? Hours on the ski?

I'm not sure if I'd keep riding it even if you get it to start, may want to at least check out the fuel system and carbs.
Click to expand...

I have had it out on the water 5 times this summer so far all good riding and no big issues, the first time out it was tempermental on starting but I'm told this is because of throttle position/choke etc.

Fuel lines have not been replaced, I know this is a big one and was on my list of things to do this off season as I did not seem to have any fuel issues, I dont believe this should have any effect on the continuous crank issue.
 
Dr Honda said:
It could be a bad solenoid... but since it stops when the power is pulled... I'm going to say it's ok. Unfortunately sounds like the MPEM gave out.
Click to expand...

I know electrical gremlins can pop up out of nowhere but what how would this sequence of events led to the MPEM to crap the bed?
 
brandingo_t said:
I have had it out on the water 5 times this summer so far all good riding and no big issues, the first time out it was tempermental on starting but I'm told this is because of throttle position/choke etc.

Fuel lines have not been replaced, I know this is a big one and was on my list of things to do this off season as I did not seem to have any fuel issues, I dont believe this should have any effect on the continuous crank issue.
Click to expand...

If the fuel lines have not been replaced, this could be your problem, today's fuel is harsh on those old lines from the 90's. The lines gum up then it makes it into the carbs, you're cruising along one day and it stops, just like what you described.

I wouldn't ride it until you at least pull the carbs and check them out and replace the original lines.

You're right, the continuous crank problem is unrelated, there's a few things to check in that area, first check the start button for continuity with a MM, (good beep only when pushing) check the 12 volts (yellow line) at the solenoid, is it hot when you press the button? and off when you release? If so, MPEM is probably good and the solenoid is a problem.

The sequence of events you describe as riding along and it sputtered and stopped, could indicate a lean condition and it seized up, the click click immediately afterward is an indicator.

I could be way off base, though possible, I wouldn't think a bad MPEM would occur that suddenly when you're riding along.
 
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GGuillot said:
If the fuel lines have not been replaced, this could be your problem, today's fuel is harsh on those old lines from the 90's. The lines gum up then it makes it into the carbs, you're cruising along one day and it stops, just like what you described.

I wouldn't ride it until you at least pull the carbs and check them out and replace the original lines.
Click to expand...
I understand this issue, but why would this force the machine to continuously crank without pushing the start button and having the key pulled, this doesn't point to the issue I'm having.
 
See edit above, I think you have a couple issues, you tried to fix one with a new starter and solenoid, and it created another. You likely have a defective solenoid if it's continuously cranking.
 
GGuillot said:
See edit above, I think you have a couple issues, you tried to fix one with a new starter and solenoid, and it created another. You likely have a defective solenoid if it's continuously cranking.
Click to expand...
Thank you, I will check some of the information you listed above. Obviously, still open to all other avenues and input from others.
 
GGuillot said:
The sequence of events you describe as riding along and it sputtered and stopped, could indicate a lean condition and it seized up, the click click immediately afterward is an indicator.
Click to expand...

It still wants to crank and does turn over, so I don't think its seized (praying I'm not getting into a rebuild)
 
brandingo_t said:
It still wants to crank and does turn over, so I don't think its seized (praying I'm not getting into a rebuild)
Click to expand...

Once it cools it turns over...it may have seized at the moment it stopped from a lean condition.

Keep us posted what you find...
 
GGuillot said:
Once it cools it turns over...it may have seized at the moment it stopped from a lean condition.

Keep us posted what you find...
Click to expand...
Will do, whats disappointing is the location nearest to me to buy parts from will not return or exchange electrical components.... so now i am just throwing money into it blind (hence why I'm seeking help)
 
OK, I have replaced the relay with a BRP one. Good news, beeper is working properly as well as not trying to continuously crank over, with or without the key in place.

Bad news, after trying to crank it for about 20 seconds it stops, then the beeper beeps twice and I can not get it to attempt to turn over again. Is this symptoms of the motor being seized and am i getting into a bottom end rebuild?
 
Battery is low, needs to be over 12V. With the spark plugs out it should rotate by hand with no tools.
 
Whatever you do don't jump the ski if the battery is low, disconnect or take it out and charge it up. Once you get the battery back to capacity, connect it back up and check compression. If compression is good and it still doesn't want to start move on to the carbs and the fuel system. Might as well pick up some 1/4 fuel line to replace those original lines you have.

Your ski, but I'd strongly recommend the original fuel line replacement and carb look before you do much else trying to get it to run again.
 
GGuillot said:
Whatever you do don't jump the ski if the battery is low, disconnect or take it out and charge it up. Once you get the battery back to capacity, connect it back up and check compression. If compression is good and it still doesn't want to start move on to the carbs and the fuel system. Might as well pick up some 1/4 fuel line to replace those original lines you have.

Your ski, but I'd strongly recommend the original fuel line replacement and carb look before you do much else trying to get it to run again.
Click to expand...
Yes, I'm going to hook it up to a trickle charger and yes, I'm looking into getting the fuel line before getting it on the water again. Do I need to get anything gasket wise to disassemble what I need to in order to have a for any gummed up areas?

Thanks for your help!
 
brandingo_t said:
Yes, I'm going to hook it up to a trickle charger and yes, I'm looking into getting the fuel line before getting it on the water again. Do I need to get anything gasket wise to disassemble what I need to in order to have a for any gummed up areas?

Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...

@milidymac on this thread has a good rebuild tutorial and how to on the carbs, he goes into detail exactly what you need and what to do. The link is in the signature block...
 
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