98 Seadoo XP LTD Question

[chrish2o]

Everyone was so helpful on my last question I just have 2 more.

Looks like I have a grey fuel lines. I understand these are crap and need to be replaced. How hard is it to replace them??

Are there anything else with this model I should look out for???

Also what is the best type of oil to use?

Any performance mods people would recommend.

Thank you again for everyone's help
Chris

 

[LouDoo]

The fuel lines themselves are not that hard to replace, since you have a 951 you'll need about 20' of 5/16" automobile fuel line and about 5' of 1/4". Just replace them one at a time, just tape the new hose to the old pull the old one out and the new one in. You will also need to clean or replace the fuel selector valve, clean the water separator/fuel filter and the carb. filters. Depending on what the inside of the carbs. look like you might also need to overhaul the carbs. Here' s link to a thread that will give you all the details, the only thing I do different is use quality cable ties instead of the stainless hose clamps.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...el-Delivery-Problems-low-revs-bogging-surging

Oil, you can't swing a dead cat around here without hitting a thread about oil. The brand is not so important as the type, this is important, use API-TC full synthetic injector oil, I personally have been using Quicksilver PWC, API-TC, full synthetic, in the black bottle, you can get it at Walmart Super Stores.

I just found out recently that you can get Amsoil direct from your distributor, use Interceptor, API-TC full synthetic, my distributor quoted me a price of $116.00 for a 4 gal. case, delivered. You can check the Amsoil website for your local distributor.

Lou

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

the 951 (actually no where in the manual other than the CCs is it called that, so I'm calling it the 947!)

the 947 engine is already pushed to it's limit in that ski.

1. clean everything, RAVEs, water regulator, fuel filter, check rave selenoid, one way valving, us good fuel.
2. solas Concord impeller.

it's cheaper than OEM, and I run them on both of my skis. I think the 15/20 is the one you need, but check their site.

the best 'mod' you can make is ensuring your ski is in good OEM condition. get it back to new and it will work well, and run fast.

anything else (for the casual user) is a money pit, and the hundreds you spent on parts and the time to get another 4 MPH will just cause you more stress...

as for the fuel lines, some use Okeiter (however you spell it) clamps. pick up several STAINLESS STEEL ones before you begin, else you will have to run out.

ALSO, OPEN THE GAS CAP BEFORE disconnecting any fuel lines to vent the tank. else you will end up with a facefull of gasoline. Don't ask me how I know, just do it.

I have only, and will ever only run XPS-II. It's what the manual says to run. Period. If I have a failure, I will never have to wonder 'was it the oil' as I know it's correct. Many here will debate oil forever. I won't mention it again.

Finally, you mention it's a '98, you may want to check which setup you have for where the driveshaft passes through the hull, in late '98 they switched to a better design you can pickup used on ebay, or new as a few parts. it uses a stainless umm disc and carbon seal. It requires no maintence, and is less likely to fail. You'd also need a new driveshaft. Up to you, and if you have the newer design, then you're all set.

Also, if this is your first jet ski / sea-doo. NEVER EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER. (Did I say ever)?

Jump start it.

The repairs may exceed the cost of your whole ski. It will / can blow the MPEM (computer) and you will have a very bad day.

good luck boating!