97 XP lotsa problems

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L_C99

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So I just bought this MY XP this year, and I got it pretty cheap as a "project" I got it running but its not running right. If you hold a constant throttle, such as at half throttle it speeds up and then bogs down. and it continues through a cycle like that, sometimes it will run good for 15 seconds before it bogs down again, sometimes it will only last a second. It seems like it is having a hard time getting fuel, or my dad said it was like it was running on one cylinder, and sometimes the other one would hook up. Any ideas?

Next problem is the VTS doesn't work, something around the motor clicks when you push the button one way, I think it is down, but it doesn't move in either direction.

Also the gas gauge and speedo do not work, where should I check for bad connections?
 
baby steps

Alright bud, first, lets not sweat the lil sh**....vts, gauges..etc. Lets get it started and run'n right. What have you done? Gone thru the carbs? Replaced the grey fuel lines?, tested the rectifer for proper output?....
 
Seadooya, I've got the same problem(s) on my '96 SPI. I replaced the grey lines from the filter to the carb and went thru the carb only like a rookie would. I did find that after reinstalling the carb that there was a filter(s) that I should've removed and cleaned. I went to the lake and it sputtered twice getting on plane then ran like a champ once there. The more I stopped and restarted, the worse it got getting on plane. Its acting like its cavitating or skipping when it gets about half plane. The only way I could get up was to turn left and right and lean forward. Do you think I still have a fuel problem or is it something else? The exhaust pipe is leaking, do you think that is causing a problem too?

Thanks!
 
Alright bud, first, lets not sweat the lil sh**....vts, gauges..etc. Lets get it started and run'n right. What have you done? Gone thru the carbs? Replaced the grey fuel lines?, tested the rectifer for proper output?....

I didn't do too much yet, checked and cleaned the fuel filter, and made sure the lines weren't too blocked by putting pressure in the fuel tank and removing the hose that went into the carb to make sure fuel is comming out, and it seemed to be fine.

As I was doing research this afternoon on this site I came across the gray fuel line thing, and that is defenitaly on my list to replace, and I havent messed with the carbs yet, but I would like to check out the filters in there, can you link me to a DIY for that or is it pretty self explanitory, I just don't want to do any damage to anything.

And as for the rectifier thing I don'y even know what that is so I haven't done anything with it.

O and the ski is up at the cabin and we wont be going there till the week of the 4th so I'm not really going to be able to try any of the things untill then, and I don't have internet up there... but we have a crowd coming up that weekend and I would like to have it ready for them, so just give me a list of things to try...
 
Get yourself about 25 feet of 1/4 fuel line, @15-20 stainless hose clamps, and if your ski has it a new fuel selector valve. Replace the hoses 1 at a time and it will be a walk in the park. Also dont forget to down the service manual and read it before this weekend.
 
i'v been looking up stuff about cleaning the carb filters, but I can't really find any thing about just cleaning them, I read on a thread that one of the carbs filter is possible to replace with out removing it, and the other one has to be removed. So do I need any gaskets then to just do the filters? How hard is to do a rebuild? I may just do a full rebuild if its not much harder then just taking the filters out. What are your opinions? I have to order anything I need this weekend so I have to get this sorted out, Thanks.
 
Get you a carb kit from SBT! The carbs need rebuit once you replace your fuel lines! Filter come with each kit! Good luck!
 
It's not hard! Take your time, follow the manual! Yepper u need 2! You will be left with xtra pcs! Don't worry! If u run into any issues the forum is a click away!
 
not trying to hijack, but I think it will relate to the same problem. If you rebuild the carb with a factory kit, do you need to set the popoff valve pressure?
 
It's not hard! Take your time, follow the manual! Yepper u need 2! You will be left with xtra pcs! Don't worry! If u run into any issues the forum is a click away!

Actually I will be doing this at my cabin where I have no internet :(

RockyS said:
not trying to hijack, but I think it will relate to the same problem. If you rebuild the carb with a factory kit, do you need to set the popoff valve pressure?

I read somewhere when I was doing research that you do not need to if you use your old springs, But you do if you replace the springs. however I do not know what/ where these springs are.
 
Always a good idea

It's always a good idea to do a pop off pressure test. The pump is also sold at SBT for $14 or so. Unless u want to chance it. You may get "lucky." I wouldnt advise. Always do a pop off test.

New springs come with each kit.
 
It's always a good idea to do a pop off pressure test. The pump is also sold at SBT for $14 or so. Unless u want to chance it. You may get "lucky." I wouldnt advise. Always do a pop off test.

New springs come with each kit.

Sbt wants 49.95 on the website for the pop-off pressure pump
 
The wiser man would take the carbs open to the filters and clean them first, this is the last detour before trash goes inside, once you get all the fuel/oil flowing smoothly things will be much more fun - avoid a lean burn out by marking the oil tank and make sure it is drinking. The pop-off pressure is a must if you dive deeper than the basket filters, do the lines and control valve first, then the water filter under the handlebars, get fuel to flow again, remove/clean the carb filters and then go for a run - if all is well you are done, if you need carb service bring them back with you where you can reference in detail the pictures and do the pop-test for smoothest transition in mid-range rpm - if you pull tubes you want to do the pop off.
 
The wiser man would take the carbs open to the filters and clean them first, this is the last detour before trash goes inside, once you get all the fuel/oil flowing smoothly things will be much more fun - avoid a lean burn out by marking the oil tank and make sure it is drinking. The pop-off pressure is a must if you dive deeper than the basket filters, do the lines and control valve first, then the water filter under the handlebars, get fuel to flow again, remove/clean the carb filters and then go for a run - if all is well you are done, if you need carb service bring them back with you where you can reference in detail the pictures and do the pop-test for smoothest transition in mid-range rpm - if you pull tubes you want to do the pop off.

I guess this makes the most sence, but where in the carbs are the filters? If I only do the filters will I need any gaskets? Thanks
 
no one can tell me which gaskets I need to take out and clean just the carb filters? I need to know because I have to order them today!!
 
Ive done a couple, if your lucky and gentle you dont need any gaskets. However you can order a carb rebuild kit, that will have all the gaskets and micro filter. Its best to replace the filter, but you can maybe get by cleaning it.
 
I didn't do too much yet, checked and cleaned the fuel filter, and made sure the lines weren't too blocked by putting pressure in the fuel tank and removing the hose that went into the carb to make sure fuel is comming out, and it seemed to be fine.

make sure you didn't put the fuel filter back on the wrong way.
 
...well I changed the fuel lines, and took the filter out that I could get at without removing the carbs, and it was as clean as a whistle.

Any ideas as to what to do next? I think tomorrow I'm going to go through all the grounds and main power wires and clean up the contacts, thinking maybe weak spark??

Let me know what you think, thanks
 
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