97 XP - 787 Rebuild Please help

[g_campbell]

Here's the pitting in the cylinder... it's pretty minor... i guess the fear would be the ring would catch it and be destroyed..

 

[g_campbell]

No, he is asking about the end of the connecting rod that the piston connects to.

Ah i'm at work does this picture provide what you're looking for?

 

[g_campbell]

Well i initiated the return on the std top end kit... Was really hoping to have it done by 4th of july weekend but Idk if that's gonna happen....

 

[Chester]

Ah i'm at work does this picture provide what you're looking for?View attachment 36033

Post a close up of the small end showing the bearing surface.

Chester

 

[g_campbell]

Post a close up of the small end showing the bearing surface.

Chester

Here ya go...

Can anyone help me determine what to do in regards to boring out the cylinders or should I start a new thread?

The questions I have is,
-Do i need to make carb adjustments?
-What do I do about the rave valves?
-What size bore over should I do?

 

[Chester]

There you go. That first picture is what I wanted to see. You should replace that crankshaft. The small end bearing surface is pitted, it should be perfectly smooth.

Chester

 

[g_campbell]

There you go. That first picture is what I wanted to see. You should replace that crankshaft. The small end bearing surface is pitted, it should be perfectly smooth.

Chester

I just checked them out, they're both glassy smooth.

 

[g_campbell]

Hey guys so like i've said, the bottom end has been re assembled. I did the timing marks on the counterbalance shaft and the crankshaft before I assembled. I'm little worried that I didn't do them correctly. If i didn't do them correctly, will it run? Also if they're not correct with the other thing I have to time with the degree wheel. Will that be correct?

 

[mikidymac]

If the balancer is not aligned the engine will be out of balance and destroy the bearings. If you are in doubt you have to pull it apart.

 

[g_campbell]

If the balancer is not aligned the engine will be out of balance and destroy the bearings. If you are in doubt you have to pull it apart.

I'm not sure i'm labeling it correctly. It's the two shafts in the crankcase. If i do pull apart, how can i ensure that they're aligned correctly. There's one defined line and a gapped line.

 

[g_campbell]

Is it as long as the line is inside the gap it's good? or does it have to be in a certain spot in the gap?

 

[mikidymac]

Take a look at this thread, Great pictures.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?70227-787-Crankshaft-Counterbalance-alignment

 

[g_campbell]

Take a look at this thread, Great pictures.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?70227-787-Crankshaft-Counterbalance-alignment

Here's mine. I already started tearing it open and then remembered I took pics. Look at this and let me know what you think . I loosened all of the bolts, so if you say they are good. Do you think I could just re-torque the bolts down? I haven't opened the crankcase yet. Just loosened all the bolts.

 

[mikidymac]

That looks good to me but technically once you loosen the bolts you should reseal and retorque. I would hate to see and issue down the road.

 

[g_campbell]

That looks good to me but technically once you loosen the bolts you should reseal and retorque. I would hate to see and issue down the road.

Damn it was good too!! Oh well better safe than sorry! thank you!

One more question, oh who am i kidding there will be more.

Do i need to gap the new spark plugs i ordered from SBT?

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, the should be .20-.24 mm. Most are close out of the box.

 

[g_campbell]

Yes, the should be .20-.24 mm. Most are close out of the box.

Thank you. Another question, so i have filed the rave valves down so they would clear the new larger pistons. How can i be sure that i've done them enough?

 

[g_campbell]

Hey guys I need help!!! Nearing the finish line. I did not remove the fuel lines or oil lines and I have no idea how they go!!! Could someone send me a diagram for the fuel and oil system?

 

[g_campbell]

Well guys I have the motor completed. I think I've done the fuel and oil injection hoses correctly. The water hoses were not correct when it started. But it did start and run for a few seconds. It just wouldn't stay running! But it also has a couple of issues:

1. The main one, can you guys think of why it might not stay running?

2. The fuel gauge does not appear to work and the oil light stayed on even though there was oil in the tank.

3. The positive battery cable got extremely hot!!! I believe the grounds are not done correctly. I have one ground that comes off the starter to the negative cable on the battery. The other ground goes from the starter to the stator cover. Is that correct?

4. Also, does the VTS work without the engine running? Because it didn't work but i didn't try it while the engine wasn't running.

Thanks so much for all of your help guys!!

 

[g_campbell]

Also guys, let me know if i'm over using this thread.

 

[racerxxx]

Also guys, let me know if i'm over using this thread.

That's impossible!

 

[hotrodssnova]

Vts should work with key on. You don't need the engine running. You will have to wake it up after the dess is placed on the post. Then the Vts will work till the mpem goes back to sleep.

 

[g_campbell]

Vts should work with key on. You don't need the engine running. You will have to wake it up after the dess is placed on the post. Then the Vts will work till the mpem goes back to sleep.

Well then my VTS doesn't work :/... damn.

What about the other stuff? I've rebuilt the carbs and replaced the fuel filters. I'm wondering if there are some screw adjustments I need to do to keep it running?

 

[g_campbell]

tWell guys she's running good on the hose!! Got all the kinks worked out and got her cleaned up! Will be doing a build thread soon.

thanks for all the help guys! Couldn't have done it without you. Especially Racer and mikidymac!