97 XP - 787 Rebuild Please help

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Heat from a propane torch around the threads on the PTO is typically needed to break the thread lock. Heat it until the paint starts to smoke a little. Don't worry about the crank seals because you are going to replace them.
 
mikidymac said:
Heat from a propane torch around the threads on the PTO is typically needed to break the thread lock. Heat it until the paint starts to smoke a little. Don't worry about the crank seals because you are going to replace them.
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Okay, got the crankcase all open and there is another spot of surface rust on the crank that I didn't notice and the crank seals look new. You guys told me I wouldn't have to re do the timing, I don't understand how that could be. I took everything apart and tried to check everything over. The crank rotation all feels really tight.

Is there anything else I should check?

How should I got about cleaning the surface rusts in those two spots?

What do I need to know about putting it together?
 
FYI for anyone that might be reading this in the future lol PTO isn't that bad. I thought from reading others saying that it has to be glowing red hot and stuff. It really wasn't that bad following the instructions on this page.
 
Can't really post now I'm driving. I never use heat. Yes thing Crittenden on what you took apart you will need to time stuff but it's easy.
 
g_campbell said:
Okay, got the crankcase all open and there is another spot of surface rust on the crank that I didn't notice and the crank seals look new. You guys told me I wouldn't have to re do the timing, I don't understand how that could be. I took everything apart and tried to check everything over. The crank rotation all feels really tight.

Is there anything else I should check?

How should I got about cleaning the surface rusts in those two spots?

What do I need to know about putting it together?
Click to expand...

You will need to time the crank and balance shaft together, but the flywheel has a keyway so will just go back on the same way as before. The computer gets its ignition info from the flywheel. You can find info on timing the balance shaft in the factory service manual, which you can find on the web, or become a premium member here and they're available for download.
 
racerxxx said:
Can't really post now I'm driving. I never use heat. Yes thing Crittenden on what you took apart you will need to time stuff but it's easy.
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I notice if your clapped out project, you use a product called evaporust. Should i soak the crankshaft in this product? Or wipe with this product?
 
Strizzo said:
You will need to time the crank and balance shaft together, but the flywheel has a keyway so will just go back on the same way as before. The computer gets its ignition info from the flywheel. You can find info on timing the balance shaft in the factory service manual, which you can find on the web, or become a premium member here and they're available for download.
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Thank you. I have a shop manual, I'll see what I can find for balancing the countershaft. Can you guys think of anything to check while i'm down there? Like i noted the crankshaft seals look new but I figure I should replace them anyway.
 
no, do not use that on the crank. Just keep posting pics of your posts in question. We can't see what your looking at so you need to help is help you. We like pics here so do be shy.
 
racerxxx said:
no, do not use that on the crank. Just keep posting pics of your posts in question. We can't see what your looking at so you need to help is help you. We like pics here so do be shy.
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Okay, I feel like the pictures make it look worse than it really is lol. But here ya go...
 

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The mona lisa is ugly in my eyes but people love it.

I would put oil on a rag and wipe the rust and be fine with it. That is nothing.
 
racerxxx said:
The mona lisa is ugly in my eyes but people love it.
I would put oil on a rag and wipe the rust and be fine with it. That is nothing.
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20160521_214939[1].jpg

I actually uploaded the better of the two by accident. Here's the worse one. But just wipe with it with two stroke engine oil?
 
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g_campbell said:
View attachment 35433

I actually uploaded the better of the two by accident. Here's the worse one. But just wipe with it with two stroke engine oil?
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I would CAREFULLY oil the rust, then with a brass bristled brush work the heavy rust AWAY from the crank journals lightly then wipe it down and possibly a quick blast of wd-40 to wash it off, then a little wipe down. The rust isn't really that bad but I do see a little on the edge of the inner bearing, so if that bearing doesn't feel too smooth it might not be long for life. But it looks good from what I can see.
 
racerxxx said:
I would CAREFULLY oil the rust, then with a brass bristled brush work the heavy rust AWAY from the crank journals lightly then wipe it down and possibly a quick blast of wd-40 to wash it off, then a little wipe down. The rust isn't really that bad but I do see a little on the edge of the inner bearing, so if that bearing doesn't feel too smooth it might not be long for life. But it looks good from what I can see.
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Oh okay good deal ill try that and post the results. Thanks for getting back with me. Just rode my buddies 03 XP DI. Seemed crazy unstable. I felt like by myself traveling straight I had to lean to the side opposite of the exhaust or it'd flip. And two people? Not possible. Sorry I'm taking the thead another direction but is this what I should expect from mine? If not worse
 
racerxxx said:
I would CAREFULLY oil the rust, then with a brass bristled brush work the heavy rust AWAY from the crank journals lightly then wipe it down and possibly a quick blast of wd-40 to wash it off, then a little wipe down. The rust isn't really that bad but I do see a little on the edge of the inner bearing, so if that bearing doesn't feel too smooth it might not be long for life. But it looks good from what I can see.
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Hey guys, so still waiting on the top end stuff to get back from the machine shop... wanted to post the results of my crank cleaning... my opinion is it looks pretty damn good. I will start a build thread soon and link this one with it. But i'm sure I'll have more questions regarding assembly. But the crankcase halves are now re-assembled and sitting full of cheap oil waiting on the top end stuff to get done. I will then drain the cheap stuff and put the good stuff in. Here's some pics... I'd eat off of it lol.
 

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Also.... machine shop just called..... I didn't intend on boring the cylinders. He says I have to, due to a small amount of pitting on the cylinder walls. Is this true?
 
Yes it is true. Please post a picture of the connecting rod small end bearing surfaces.

Chester
 
Chester said:
Yes it is true. Please post a picture of the connecting rod small end bearing surfaces.

Chester
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Well that sucks... What else do i have to do when i bore it out? I was told i have to shave the rave valves... also with increased performance comes decreased reliability right?

The crankcase is closed up now... is this pic what you're referring to?
 

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