'97 SPX Fuel Gauge Not Reading Correctly

[repieces]

I noticed when my tank is slap full, my gauge only reads 1/2 tank. I bought one of the "updated" fuel floats in hopes that it will fix the problem. Has anyone else had similar issues, and did the "updated" float fix the problem? I'll be taking the baffle out either tonight or tomorrow. Any feedback would be appreciated.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

About 5 yrs ago i bought a used "older" float and it fixed my problem of showing "no fuel" all the time. My buddy and I checked all the ohms settings and all was fine, so I bought the float and it's been working ever since. 96 GTX

 

[Dr Honda]

I noticed when my tank is slap full, my gauge only reads 1/2 tank. I bought one of the "updated" fuel floats in hopes that it will fix the problem. Has anyone else had similar issues, and did the "updated" float fix the problem? I'll be taking the baffle out either tonight or tomorrow. Any feedback would be appreciated.

When you changed the float... did you look inside the tube to make sure the old magnets weren't stuck inside?

The sender is simple. There is a row of magnetic switches. If there is a second magnet holding a switch... it will give you an incorrect resistance.

OR.... it could be holding the float below the "Full" level.

 

[repieces]

When you changed the float... did you look inside the tube to make sure the old magnets weren't stuck inside?

The sender is simple. There is a row of magnetic switches. If there is a second magnet holding a switch... it will give you an incorrect resistance.

OR.... it could be holding the float below the "Full" level.

I haven't changed the float yet.....it won't be at my house 'til tomorrow. I've taken the float out of it before (had previous problems with it) and have seen how it all works. I'll take a look at it tomorrow and see. I'm thinking the float is getting in a bind at the 1/2 mark and that's why I'm only reading 1/2 tank. Hopefully the new float will work correctly.

And before I put everything back in the tank, I'll install the new float and turn the baffle upside down to make sure the gauge is reading from empty to full tank correctly. Atleast that'll tell me the baffle, float, and gauge are all working like they should.

 

[manolocross]

Just be careful because when you take the baffle out your hill will be full of gas fumes and to check you will have to turn on electronics!!! Your best bet is to take out baffle of ski completely and check with voltmeter for resistance .

 

[mattydipps]

When you changed the float... did you look inside the tube to make sure the old magnets weren't stuck inside?

The sender is simple. There is a row of magnetic switches. If there is a second magnet holding a switch... it will give you an incorrect resistance.

OR.... it could be holding the float below the "Full" level.

how many magnets are there?

 

[repieces]

Just be careful because when you take the baffle out your hill will be full of gas fumes and to check you will have to turn on electronics!!! Your best bet is to take out baffle of ski completely and check with voltmeter for resistance .

What should be my voltage readings at the "empty" and "full" marks?

 

[Seadoobuddy]

What should be my voltage readings at the "empty" and "full" marks?

To what ski of yours are you referring? Oh your XP is sold. i really can't help you but here are the stats

from 92 on till 96 (as far as my book goes) for a XP, SP & SPX 1996

full from 0-2.2, then 15.6-20, 25.6-30,35.6-40, 45.6-50,55.6-60, 65.6-70, 75.6-80 then at empty 87.6-92



These are resistance in Ohms. Ώ

 

[repieces]

To what ski of yours are you referring? Oh your XP is sold. i really can't help you but here are the stats

from 92 on till 96 (as far as my book goes) for a XP, SP & SPX 1996

full from 0-2.2, then 15.6-20, 25.6-30,35.6-40, 45.6-50,55.6-60, 65.6-70, 75.6-80 then at empty 87.6-92



These are resistance in Ohms. Ώ

The "updated" float didn't fix the problem. Still, even when you simulate a full tank with the baffle turned upside down, it only reads 1/2 tank. I tried using my multimeter but couldn't get any ohm reading out of it. I put the two leads of the multimeter inside of the two contacts of the baffle electrical conection but didn't have any luck with it. Any ideas?

 

[Dr Honda]

how many magnets are there?

There is 2 of them. On the old foam float, it's common for them to come out.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

The "updated" float didn't fix the problem. Still, even when you simulate a full tank with the baffle turned upside down, it only reads 1/2 tank. I tried using my multimeter but couldn't get any ohm reading out of it. I put the two leads of the multimeter inside of the two contacts of the baffle electrical conection but didn't have any luck with it. Any ideas?

Unfortunately it was 5 yrs ago when i did mine. I tested mine without hooking it to the fuel gauge and i got a reading on my meter as i moved the float back and forth. I also bought a new used float but it's the older style not the new molded type. Can't remember where i connected the meter leads to on the baffle.

 

[repieces]

My "old" float has only 1 magnet. It's a round, bar shaped magnet. Also, I found out that when you similate 1/2 tank (float is sitting in the middle of the baffle), the gauge reads empty. But if you gradually move the float to the "full tank" position, the gauge starts moving.....eventually stopping at 1/2 tank. I'm starting to think the baffle is shot. Any info on where I could find one? Or does anyone really know how to test it with a multimeter correctly?

 

[repieces]

Also, I just tried to check resistance another way. Instead of checking it at the baffle connection, this time I left the baffle connection alone but pulled apart the fuel gauge connection that sits inside of the hood, behind the small plastic panel. I then put the multimeter leads on the pink wire contact and the pink/black wire contact since those are the same color as the wires leaving the baffle.......but again, I'm not getting an ohm reading.

What I don't understand is, the fuel gauge gets some sort of reading when it's all connected and I simulate a full tank, but I'm not getting an ohm reading on the multimeter at all. I checked the multimeter on other metals to make sure it was working like it should and all checked out.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Ok, it's possible that the diode is bad in the baffle. There are thread on that too. it's probably easier to buy a used baffle from minnetonka4me or 99spxxx or Ski-d00

 

[repieces]

Just to give an update, I decided to say "F it" last night after trying to figure out what the problem was and only running into dead ends. At that point, the fuel gauge would still only read 1/2 tank when I simulated a full tank. I quit fooling around with it after that. Well, I came home after work and decided to simulate a full tank again...........and the damn gauge finally registered a full tank. I simulated an empty tank, the gauge showed empty. I simulated a full tank, the gauge showed full. I didn't do anything that would fix the problem, other than letting the baffle sit out to dry over night. So anyhow, I stuck the baffle back in the tank, reconnected the (4) fuel lines to the baffle, and put gas in it..........and it's reading 3/4 tank (I still have more gas to put in it). Not sure what the hell changed...? But it seems to be working at the moment. I'm taking it to the lake this weekend and will give you guys an update after the weekend. Let's hope it works the entire time.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Yeah, don't you just love the "ghosts" like that. My fuel sender didn't work on my boat for a couple seasons, so last Aug I pulled it to compare it to a new one. The shop didn't have the right length so i reinstalled it and then the darn thing work flawlessly. I assumed I jingled something loose. hope it still works this summer

 

[repieces]

Well, I'm just praying that it continues to work like it should. With my luck, it'll go back to working half-ass within 5 minutes of me riding on the lake.

 

[repieces]

Update: Rode it this weekend and the guage worked fine the entire weekend. The Seadoo itself ran like a champ.......BUT I ran into a problem Saturday morning.

When I hopped on it and started it up, I noticed the throttle was sticking (about 1/2 throttle or so). So I then idled back over to the house and noticed the oil pump lever wasn't opening and closing like it should. I put it on the trailer and took it to the garage. Well, when I turned the pump lever by hand, you could feel it catching on something. So I kept messing with it and the damn oil pump spring broke. Anyhow, I pulled the spring off another Seadoo we have and replaced the spring on mine. Put it in the water and ran it the entire weekend with no problem.

And although it ran fine, it looks like I'll need to replace the oil pump soon. Reason being, the spring has worn down the metal of the pump body (almost to the point of touching the pump shaft) and is causing the spring to bind up.