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97 Seadoo GTX not starting?
- Thread starter Rdizz
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soccerdad
Well-Known Member
The plug is a welch plug. The JB will get you going but welding is the answer in the off season. I doubt that would cause your current issues though. I would pull the plugs and ground the wires. Then crank it with it with a towel over the holes. If it pumps out a bunch of oil, then keep cranking in short bursts until you just get a mist coming out. Then put the plugs in a let er rip tater chip... Hopefully you will be good to go. But if not, there are several members in your area that may be able to help. [MENTION=52309]MPower[/MENTION], [MENTION=59515]suke[/MENTION] [MENTION=72134]1983[/MENTION] [MENTION=32110]IDoSeaDoo[/MENTION] all are really smart guys. Maybe you can drag it over to one of their places and I am sure they would look at it. I am out of town the next two weekends or I would offer to help. Good luck and hang in there.
Thanks man I will def give that a shot. Would kill for some help with these lol...
When adjusting the idle screw do you guys recommend any amount of turn? Is 1/4 enough or 1/2 turn increments?
I got the polaris running like a beast but these seadoos are just so hard to work on.
That is typically leaking needle and seats. That is what is was in all the ones I have seen do that.
It floods the engine then when you try to start it it mixes with the water trapped in the muffler and you get the sludge in your picture.
Rebuild carbs with factory Mikuni kits and needle and seats, replace fuel filter and selector and gray fuel lines then should be good to go.
It floods the engine then when you try to start it it mixes with the water trapped in the muffler and you get the sludge in your picture.
Rebuild carbs with factory Mikuni kits and needle and seats, replace fuel filter and selector and gray fuel lines then should be good to go.
You know hearing this really makes my day... Except i just rebuilt the carbs with OEM mikuni kit and just replaced the fuel lines. Starting to wonder if i mucked something up. I may just buy new carbs call it a day if that does work craigslist here we come.
dont have one ready to bolt on for sale do ya =p
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soccerdad
Well-Known Member
I got spare carbs but they need to be gone through I think. If you just park it for a couple of weeks I will help you out. I wish one of the Raleigh guys would pop in. I hate it that it is giving you fits. I am not worried about the gunk in the exhaust. When it starts once good, it will blow that crud out. So it started for a few seconds. What was the idle? Or did you just struggle keeping it alive by blipping the throttle? When it dies, are the plugs wet? Have you verified your plumbing? You can simplify it all by running one line from the tank to the carb, bypassing the selector and filter. Then put the return line in a empty bottle or something. Once it starts, you should have fuel returning. If not, something is not plumbed correctly or is clogged. Did it only start once or several times, at a few seconds at a pop?
IdoSeadoos is helping me out tremendously, he is local to me. I think we have narrowed it down to [MENTION=53237]mikidymac[/MENTION] suggestion of the needle and seat. I replaced one but not the other because it looked to be in good shape. I had a hard time with the pop off test due to the crappy tester i bought from OSD (it did leak) and the fact that i had to use a bike pump from walmart so i sort of wrote it off. I think a solid carb rebuild this time with new needle and seats in both passing a pressure test and pop off test may very well solve the problem.
to answer your question it wouldnt really idle at all i have to bump the throttle to keep it running a few turns of the idle screw i got it up to around 3k rpm (on the needle) on the trailer but it would still stall if i didnt constantly bump the throttle. Almost like maybe its flooding pointing to the carbs again. After pulling the plugs they are wet with a little bit of oil ( i converted the ski to premix) and gas. I would blow them off dry them and it would start again. It would start several times at a few seconds a pop and would only stay running if i bumped throttle then after a few tries it wouldnt start until i cleaned the plugs. Now prior to all of this remember it would not start at all just spin and no catch, now at least its starting and it is acting like a fuel delivery problem. I am currently taking off the carbs again. Now in automotive it is my understanding that you cannot or should not reuse gaskets. Would it be wise for me to go ahead and drop another $100 on a rebuild kit? all I have left from the previous is one needle and seat, however I am not convinced the carb is in good shape... Is it possible for the carb it self to have a crack in it?
I also failed to mention that even the check valves could "POSSIBLY" be installed backwards....... I know I know, the ink on them rubbed right off the second i touched them. This has been a learning experience for sure.
I would have edited my original post, but half the time edit gives me an error message.
I would have edited my original post, but half the time edit gives me an error message.
soccerdad
Well-Known Member
I am glad you are getting help. And idoseadoos is awesome. So is everyone else here. I would not worry at all about reusing the gaskets. No new kits needed. For the intake gaskets I would just put a little grease on them and they will seal up well as long as they are not damaged. Did you look at the SBN carb manual? www.mikuni.com/pdf/sbn_manual.pdf It may help. I know they give you extra gaskets in the kits so make sure you have them assembled with the correct gaskets. And use your old springs for the pop off. I am sure you will get it this time. When you get a chance, look at this thread http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?68737-96-gsx-not-starting-need-some-tips It was my first effort to get a ski running. I went through two sets of carbs and pulled the motor TWICE! And it turned out to be a bad MPEM. I do not think that is your issue, but you will see that persistence will pay off. Good luck and hang in there. Or Idoseadoo will help you drop a 4-tec in it 
So what is the proper way to do the pop off test. And does anyone recommend a specific tester the one from OSD is really no good. The one at sbt looks nicer. Anything I need to reorder for the carbs?
Maybe the check valves and that check valve installation tool and some new needles and seats
Maybe the check valves and that check valve installation tool and some new needles and seats
IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
You need to make sure you're blocking off the return line and putting pressure to the feed line (arrow pointing into carb). I usually just hold my thumb over the return line, as the test doesn't take very long. Once the carb is assembled, do the test again and make sure the needle holds at least 20psi. It should hold close to the pop off pressure if I'm not mistaken. If it leaks early, you know that your diaphragm is pressing down on the needle, or it's defective. A defective needle will never yield a good pop-off test as it'll just leak. It will not give you that clean, crisp POP at the desired pressure.
I built my own tester from Harbor Freight parts. It's cheap, but very effective, and can be used for all sorts of other applications, like pressure testing auto coolant systems, or pressure testing testing crank cases. It consists of a Pressure Regulator, a Tee, a gauge, and a valve. The point is to be able to regulate how much air you're allowing to the carb from your compressor, and to be able to close it off and watch it leak down. The valve must be before the gauge obviously.
I built my own tester from Harbor Freight parts. It's cheap, but very effective, and can be used for all sorts of other applications, like pressure testing auto coolant systems, or pressure testing testing crank cases. It consists of a Pressure Regulator, a Tee, a gauge, and a valve. The point is to be able to regulate how much air you're allowing to the carb from your compressor, and to be able to close it off and watch it leak down. The valve must be before the gauge obviously.
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