-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
97 Seadoo GTX not starting?
- Thread starter Rdizz
- Start date
- Status
This is the exact kit i got. OSD1223
http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_...oducts_id=38&zenid=tt4hteaskrogk8s5qcoejeeci2
Everything worked fine it just didnt come with any of the rubber gaskets. (it did come with the small o rings and check valves) just no rubber gaskets.
Like the ones in the picture. and what ever is under that yellow tab on the picture on their website. The picture below is all I am really looking for. While I have your attention some of the paper gaskets are just molded to the pump cover, any suggestions on how to remove these? Was going to swing by the parts store see if they had some permatex. only thing I can think of.
Also here is an update on OSD, I have been in contact with them and I do have to say their customer service is top notch. All though I feel like I have had some issues which can happen anywhere they are quick to respond and quick to resolve. I will def. continue to business with them.
Last edited by a moderator:
Just in case anyone is still following this.
Rebuilt Carbs, Replaced starter Relay, Replaced all Grey fuel lines, replaced Fuel/water sep, Replaced Fuel selector valve, New battery, new plugs, new gas, installed in line fuel filter, replaced Both Rave valves from top to bottom... all parts ordered from OSD.
Turns over... Tries to catch dies then backfires. ^ alot of wasted money
basically same problem as before.
Rebuilt Carbs, Replaced starter Relay, Replaced all Grey fuel lines, replaced Fuel/water sep, Replaced Fuel selector valve, New battery, new plugs, new gas, installed in line fuel filter, replaced Both Rave valves from top to bottom... all parts ordered from OSD.
Turns over... Tries to catch dies then backfires. ^ alot of wasted money
basically same problem as before.
FaceDeAce
Member
Well I am still here and cheering for ya!
You are at point now that you should feel very very solid and confident on the function of the fuel system, right?
Mu experiences are that After going through and redoing the carbs and new lines etc, it takes a bunch of spinning over, coughing, spitting, rough chugging, and tons to of exhaust smoke for them to settle out and purr. 5-10 minutes of startup whoes. I have another post on this site that lays out my process I go through in reviving an old Doo
- only thing you may have wasted money on was replacing the rav valves. Why?
If it still doesn't run, you may have to get into electrical troubleshooting - ignition coil, spark strength, stator leads ohm testing, stator timing. On timing, in all the above did at any time the rotary valve cover come off, any chance the RV timing has been disturbed/offset?
Ps; a backfire is usually a flooded engine. If that is the case Kick it over half throttle open, NO choke, and keep spinning her till she fires up and clears out.
You are at point now that you should feel very very solid and confident on the function of the fuel system, right?
Mu experiences are that After going through and redoing the carbs and new lines etc, it takes a bunch of spinning over, coughing, spitting, rough chugging, and tons to of exhaust smoke for them to settle out and purr. 5-10 minutes of startup whoes. I have another post on this site that lays out my process I go through in reviving an old Doo
- only thing you may have wasted money on was replacing the rav valves. Why?
If it still doesn't run, you may have to get into electrical troubleshooting - ignition coil, spark strength, stator leads ohm testing, stator timing. On timing, in all the above did at any time the rotary valve cover come off, any chance the RV timing has been disturbed/offset?
Ps; a backfire is usually a flooded engine. If that is the case Kick it over half throttle open, NO choke, and keep spinning her till she fires up and clears out.
I guess i can try to turn it over a for a bit longer see if it clears out, i just fear in ruining the starter. I replaced teh rave valves because the pictures i posted everyone suggested they were pretty worn out. As far as I know the rotary valve or anything else was not removed or disturbed. the only thing that came off the engine was the carbs.
Update, tried to turn over for a while it caught pretty good with no choke or throttle but still died after a second then a slight backfire... still cannot get this thing to fire up. Think i am breaking down and towing them to a shop tomorrow morning
I cut the spark plug wires reinstalled the caps, that seems to have helped a little bit same issue though just wont stay started.
I cut the spark plug wires reinstalled the caps, that seems to have helped a little bit same issue though just wont stay started.
Last edited by a moderator:
Last try before I list this thing for sale... :facepalm:
Ok here is the list and symptoms one more time.
All items replaced:
Rebuilt carbs, replaced all fuel lines, replaced water/sep bowl and filter, replaced Fuel selector valve, refreshed gas and oil, replaced starter relay, replaced both rave valves and all corresponding parts, just installed fresh plugs, verified spark and gas movement, new battery...
And still nothing. Tried to turn over for lengthy amounts of time (short burst not held down) symptoms are low 12v warning I feel like this comes on after I try to turn for a min (battery dying?). Turns over like a champ tries to start sometimes will catch for a second or 2 then dies and followed by a small backfire sometimes through the carb sometimes through the exhaust. Compression is right at 149ish psi per cylinder....
I just don't get it. I am at a complete loss here I mean just a total loss.
Aside from chasing each individual wire checking for connections (I am not good with electrical at all) is there anything else I can try? or is it possible I just have not turned it over enough and this takes quite a long time to start after all these replacements.
one thing I did not do was make any adjustments to Carb after I rebuilt them. They went back on exactly as they came off. Should I do some adjustments to them? something I have no idea on how to accomplish.
Ok here is the list and symptoms one more time.
All items replaced:
Rebuilt carbs, replaced all fuel lines, replaced water/sep bowl and filter, replaced Fuel selector valve, refreshed gas and oil, replaced starter relay, replaced both rave valves and all corresponding parts, just installed fresh plugs, verified spark and gas movement, new battery...
And still nothing. Tried to turn over for lengthy amounts of time (short burst not held down) symptoms are low 12v warning I feel like this comes on after I try to turn for a min (battery dying?). Turns over like a champ tries to start sometimes will catch for a second or 2 then dies and followed by a small backfire sometimes through the carb sometimes through the exhaust. Compression is right at 149ish psi per cylinder....
I just don't get it. I am at a complete loss here I mean just a total loss.
Aside from chasing each individual wire checking for connections (I am not good with electrical at all) is there anything else I can try? or is it possible I just have not turned it over enough and this takes quite a long time to start after all these replacements.
one thing I did not do was make any adjustments to Carb after I rebuilt them. They went back on exactly as they came off. Should I do some adjustments to them? something I have no idea on how to accomplish.
Just to be safe I did recheck compression registered at 152 per cylinder.
So how do I go about checking the rotary valve or flywheel is this pretty invloved is there a how to guide anywhere?
FaceDeAce
Member
For carb settings. I found a few great links recently when I was going through my two old machines. These sorted out the needles quickly and got things going. My SP and SPX run and purrrrrr now.P.
http://www.seadoosource.com/carbreference.html
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?40380-Carburetor-Adjustments
http://www.seadoosource.com/carbreference.html
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?40380-Carburetor-Adjustments
jforest
Active Member
In your first post you said you replaced your battery. What battery did you purchase? After all the cranking you've done trying to get it to start, have you put the battery back on the charger?
The rotary valve is simple but you will need a degree wheel to check and make sure it is right. If you search "seadoo manuals" on Google, you can find the manual for your year and it will say how to do everything.
The rotary valve is simple but you will need a degree wheel to check and make sure it is right. If you search "seadoo manuals" on Google, you can find the manual for your year and it will say how to do everything.
Last edited by a moderator:
I have recharged the battery. But here is an update, after alot of fiddling siphoning gas again and putting in fresh gas I am able to start the ski, The issue now is it will stay running as long as i give it some throttle but will not idle. Either i rebuilt the carbs wrong or maybe its as simple as a carb adjustment.
Now this is where i have trouble, what should i do to adjust the idle on the carb? seems like it needs to be bumped up just a hair to get it to idle correctly.
I saw the carb settings that faceman linked but to be honest it is all greek to me. It appears i need to adjust the low speed adjuster or the idle stop screw? where are these located on the carbs? and i am not sure which way turned makes what adjustment.
Also if this makes a difference, my ski has been converted to premix as well.
Last edited by a moderator:
jforest
Active Member
To increase your idle, you need to adjust the idle stop screw. Your idle out of water needs to be up near 3000 rpms. There is an adjustment screw on the MAG Cylinder carb (carb closer to the gas tank).
I might have missed it but what do your spark plugs look like? What spark plugs are you using? What is the gap of the spark plugs?
It sounds like you need to increase your idle speed. I would make sure your low speed and high speed adjustments are correct before riding it.
I might have missed it but what do your spark plugs look like? What spark plugs are you using? What is the gap of the spark plugs?
It sounds like you need to increase your idle speed. I would make sure your low speed and high speed adjustments are correct before riding it.
Last edited by a moderator:
Using ngk Br8es. I just bought new plugs what should the gap be set to .20-.24? found the idle screw I assume clockwise to turn up idle? (grabing screw from Port side hand over carb and twisting to the left towards bow)
Last edited by a moderator:
Well it's hard to explain if the "T" is up and down the highest part is being twisted towards the gas tank if I was looking directly at it it would be clock wise. Now the ski ran perfect prior to carb rebuild and I did not make any adjustments at all to any screws prior or after carb rebuild.
This something I should remove carbs again and adjust all screws? The ski was also just converted to premix.
That is exactly what I'm doing! 
I will try some new plugs gapped correctly tonight when I get home. But now I may have an even bigger problem. I have started to notice oil coming out of the exhaust pipe........... it never ends. What are known reasons for this? Seemed to happen right after pre mix conversion was thinking it was just the premix as the oil can separate from the gas?
I will try some new plugs gapped correctly tonight when I get home. But now I may have an even bigger problem. I have started to notice oil coming out of the exhaust pipe........... it never ends. What are known reasons for this? Seemed to happen right after pre mix conversion was thinking it was just the premix as the oil can separate from the gas?
jforest
Active Member
That could be from a few things. Its a good chance that you have too much oil in your premix. Plus with all the cranking you've been doing trying to get it to run, its possible you are just pumping the mixture right out of the engine.
If you remove the sparkplugs and crank it and you're getting a gusher of oil out of the spark plug holes, it could be a crankseal. If you can crank it with the spark plugs in and get it to run, this is unlikely. I just had it happen to me, which is why I mentioned it.
If you remove the sparkplugs and crank it and you're getting a gusher of oil out of the spark plug holes, it could be a crankseal. If you can crank it with the spark plugs in and get it to run, this is unlikely. I just had it happen to me, which is why I mentioned it.
The ski is nearing 30 years old every thing is original in it. Really thought that may be the best way to go to ensure engine was getting lubrication. Maybe it wasn't necessary but I guess peace of mind.
Ok, here we go again. Got it running on the hose for a min.... Then i find out the exhaust pipe (large pipe that wraps around the engine) is leaking water.... Would this cause bad idle and or backfire?
it is leaking from that thing i circled in the pic except its a different one on the backside of the pipe that points down into the hull.
**disclaimer** pic is a googled pic not my engine but should be same engine as in the 97 gtx
it is leaking from that thing i circled in the pic except its a different one on the backside of the pipe that points down into the hull.
**disclaimer** pic is a googled pic not my engine but should be same engine as in the 97 gtx
- Status
