97 GTX Mini Restoration - Keeping The 2 Stroke Alive!

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.
I'm more fond of thread cutting oil than gear oil. But it doesn't really bother me

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
I can't get that smell out of my garage! Smells like a 4 day old burnt fart



95 XP800!!!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!
 
Hey guys, its been a hot minute but I havnt forgot about finishing this! I took a little break from working on her but I am getting back at it this weekend.

So I ended up ordering a brand new R&D scoop grate from another member on this forum. I purchased a different grate but it dosnt fit my ski :(

Ill post pictures of that sometime today so I can figure out what model it is for so I can just re-sell it. I was going to return it but broke my phone & have no idea who I bought it from on this forum. Anywho I did want to ask if you think I should add a "Primer" kit to this ski?

What is the difference between a primer kit and choke? The ski has always been a little hard to start but it also had a laundry list of issues. I am just wondering if I could add a primer kit while I have the ski here in my garage. Once I tow it down to the lake 3+ hours it wont be coming home unless absolutely necessary so really trying to make sure this thing is ready to roll and hopefully be reliable for the next couple of years.

Thoughts?

Thanks guys! Ill post pictures of my fresh pump rebuild w/new prop after the weekend! I also started removing the factory mat's and have some fresh ones to lay down soon!
 
With that pink and green paint, I don't see that the motor will have any issues starting. It will scare its self every time you try to start it. :eek: If you got the carbs right and the raves and rotary valve are like they should be, then that thing should just start. Pull choke, crank and braaap. A primer would not hurt I guess, but I don't see the need. You would just be hiding some other issue. Mine were tough to start until I did the carbs correctly.

Nice work by the way. Looking forward to the finished piece.
 
With that pink and green paint, I don't see that the motor will have any issues starting. It will scare its self every time you try to start it. :eek: If you got the carbs right and the raves and rotary valve are like they should be, then that thing should just start. Pull choke, crank and braaap. A primer would not hurt I guess, but I don't see the need. You would just be hiding some other issue. Mine were tough to start until I did the carbs correctly.

Nice work by the way. Looking forward to the finished piece.

Hahaha you know you love the pink! Haha, awesome ok great. I will leave it as it is. It was my first time pulling everything apart but I did it by the books so feel it should all be good. I think most of the previous start issues were a combination of all the broken things, battery was always dead/carbs pop off was wrong/dirty filters/hole in water bellow/leaking exhaust fitting etc. Lots of little stuff. Crossing my fingers but I will just keep the choke in place then. Thanks for the info!
 
Hey guys, I started removing the mats today and was curious what is recommended to use to seal those holes? Just any type of sealant, or bondo?

I cleaned up the sides a little but I ill get out the scrub brush after the holes are sealed to clean it up better before laying down the hydro turf.

I also found some spider wedding in the back area shown in the pictures. Think I should bother trying to fix that somehow?




Some small cracking








Wiped down a little

 
248.jpg
 
Honestly I found the green buffs out weird. It shines up well, but it ends up vary mottled if it had a bunch of scratches originally. I could not save the bottom of my Shamu ski so I ended up painting it. The white cleans up well with compound, but you likely will need to wet sand it first. The white gelcote is really tough stuff. If that spider web area is the only area, I would consider leaving it and just buffing like seadoooaddiction suggested. It is a lot of work to repair correctly and match the color back. I think RacerX uses the expression to never under estimate the value of a strategically placed sticker... Just use bondo or epoxy to fill those holes left by the mats.
 
That crack is under the traction mat. So that will be covered. Spim uses that expression about the stickers, but I always liked it. Lol
 
That crack is under the traction mat. So that will be covered. Spim uses that expression about the stickers, but I always liked it. Lol

Ok awesome thanks. I figured with it covered no biggie but wasn't sure if I should worry about trying to strengthen that area or if thats just considered normal wear and tear at this point. Thanks guys, I should have the new mats installed tomorrow, then going to throw the carbs on, tidy up the inside, run a few misc hoses left & then start working on shining her up!

I finally got the new impeller shaft here as well so I can finish up the pump rebuild & get all of that squared away & back on her soon. It was really nice today & suppose to be nice weather tomorrow so hoping to get a lot done. Last week I barbecued on Sunday and it snowed on wednesday lol! Midwest weather!
 
Well I ordered some more goodies and got some work on her yesterday. Pictures later tonight

All mats removed, holes filled with epoxy & cleaned up the foor boards. I laid down the rear mat and decided I do want to wax/clean all of the white before installing the rest of the floor mats. Mostly don't want a white ski with darker white/yellowish between the new mats. Haha might be OCD but its the best time to clean it up. With that being said I started taping off the decals on the ski I plan to keep and started removing the old ones.

I ordered this in green

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bilge-pump-outlet-3-4-hose-FLUSH-/111596085023?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Now I am debating what type of pump to add. Obviously a manual pump would be ridiculous but would something like this kill my battery if its checking so often? I would assume not but I had battery issues in the past "most likely due to the crap rectifier". I have a larger aftermarket rectifier now but was just curious. Generally speaking the ski is always on the boat lift but sometimes in the summer I might anchor it out overnight in front of the dock as some particular drivers in the family have a hard time getting it on our lift without giving me a heart attack. The pump is really just insurance incase someone decides to not plug in a rear plug or something really dumb happens there is some sort of failsafe for her. Better safe than sorry.

Thinking of this:
http://www.amazon.com/Rule-25S-Automatic-500-GPH-12-Volt/dp/B000O8B7R8


Also ordered this in the 5.5 to try out on this ski with my new porter cable polisher

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys...qid=1456769363&sr=1-13&keywords=chemical+guys

Ill order some meguiars once I see what I have/dont have. The masking up of all the decals is really going to be the time consumer lol. Tedious work for sure! I am keeping the main body graphics as they are in good shape but the front registration letters and some torn rear decals will be removed and replaced. I will also be removing the hood for some vinyl work this week. Still debating on what I plan to wrap/not wrap but I will have a better idea once the hood is off and dissembled.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well taping all this up should be fun lol. These graphics are huge and a PITA. I am just tracing the outside with a blade....slow process. I am wondering if wet sanding will actually be required on her, the white really isn't that bad. I think I am going to try the aggressive meguiars compound first w/the mid/aggressive pad first and see how it does vs starting with wet sanding. I just really, really hate wet sanding lol.





 
The GTX I posted in the other thread I never taped the decals up. If you do the wetsanding by hand, you won't have any problems with the decals @ 2000 grit. Don't let the buffer catch them with a heavy cut compound on them or they'll burn through and smear all over the place.

Your boat, I wouldn't even wet sand, I'd just hit it with the light compound and get the turf on.
 
The GTX I posted in the other thread I never taped the decals up. If you do the wetsanding by hand, you won't have any problems with the decals @ 2000 grit. Don't let the buffer catch them with a heavy cut compound on them or they'll burn through and smear all over the place.

Your boat, I wouldn't even wet sand, I'd just hit it with the light compound and get the turf on.

Oh ok awesome. So with the fine cut compound I also wouldn't have to worry about burning the decals? Obviously I can be more careful around the graphics just curious, that would save me at least an hour or more from taping all those off haha! Just checking! Thanks so much, I will buy some of the fine cut meguiars and some finishing wax today and go to town.

Sorry for the noob question haha. I usually only hand wax but I did get a nice porter polisher I have been itching to try out.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Just pretend everything will burn through the decals. Then if it doesn't you'll be happy.

Better safe than sorry!
 
Well a small update is better than no update. Had my nephews bday today, baptism tomorrow, next weekend is a bachlor party & the following I am out of town so I guess i will buckle down and hammer out some work after work during the week.

Started removed the decals "I am going to keep the stock decals". I thought about removing them all and changing up the scheme a bit but the seat and everything is in good condition as well as most of the decals. I am going to remove the hood and vinyl wrap it in some dinoc black CF material, paint the middle grille satin black & leave the top cover on the hood and side mirror green and see how it looks. I may also wrap some small center pieces in CF such as the glove box and side plastic panels but I am going to do the main hood first and see how I like it.

Monday starts the polish/wax process. Also need to find a larger drill bit to finish drilling the hole for the plug for the bilge pump.

The nephew enjoying his first cake! HAHA

Sorry for the bad quality pics, was working in the garage when I got home after dark. Minimal lighting at the moment LOL









White really isnt too far off, I am going to start with the fine cut and see how it does first. I also have a fine cut pad from chemical boys.







Hole started but not quite bit enough for the plug

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ack. That's pretty yellow. You might have to sand that.



Dang I hate sanding. I'm gonna try the light compound and see how it does. Maybe switch to the heavy compound and heavy pad. If neither works well I suppose I'll suck it up and start sanding. Haha I dread sanding

If I am stuck sanding I'll probably remove all decals and get something made up for it later on.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It literally takes an hour. Get some brews, a good CD, and enjoy the time :)


Lol, I have hours into the hood on my HX, and even more on the hull and deck. I didn't keep track of the days I have into my 95. If you can sand an X4 in an hour I'll load a trailer up and pay you $150 an hour to do a ski with a 1 hour maximum per ski.[emoji12]
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top