97 GSI 5a Fuse

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cj3737

cj3737

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1997 GSI keeps blowing the 5a fuse in the MPEM. Unplug the stator wire and it doesnt blow. As soon as its plugged back in the fuse blows. Ive even tried unplugging the VTS to see if that could be the culprit. I know this has been discussed pretty well all over the place but I want to make sure it cant be anything other than the mpem. All wiring looks brand new in the ski and it also has what appears to be a pretty new stator. I did notice a little metal shaving in the flywheel but I tried reconnecting with the flywheel off and it still blew the fuse. VTS looks new with oem parts and even the mpem looks new. Would this be worth spending money at the repair shop or should I try to get the mpem repaired thru someone else? Any ideas will help...
 
Did you check the stator for metal particles ? You have to find the culprit or you run the risk of it happening again. Did you check the rear box for water , rust or corrosion ?
 
mwat65 said:
Also check the plugs on the mpem and stator plug
Click to expand...
Yep.. all been checked. Boat hasn't seen water in a long time. Bought it knowing about the electrical issue but got a smoking deal. Previous owner did a bunch of work but couldn't nail down the issue. All new harnesses, stator, housing, etc.. . Mpem looks new as well and just so happens to be the most expensive part. All the wiring looks like it goes to the right places according to the diagram...
 
mwat65 said:
Did you check the stator for metal particles ? You have to find the culprit or you run the risk of it happening again. Did you check the rear box for water , rust or corrosion ?
Click to expand...
I haven't been thru the stator with a fine tooth comb yet but I will before I make any decisions...
 
Also we recently had a forum member with a shorted out solenoid that caused this same issue. That was a new one on me.
 
When I first starting chasing this issue, that's the first place I started according to the writing diagram. Made a lot of sense but being the fuse isnt blowing with the stator plug disco'd, and the solenoid looking brand new, I started looking elsewhere... I'm gonna pull the mpem and do the continuity test I found online and see where it leads me. It's just strange because it acts like it's a bad ground but I've checked all of them and they look fine...
 
Why does electrical have to be so frustrating.?. Think Im gonna contact @Minnetonka4me and see if he has a replacement mpem thatll work in my ski. Ive been up and down the WD's and I fear my mpem is shot.. If I can find a replacement, I may experiment with this one and try to tackle the diode swap..
 
Sitting here staring at the wiring diagram going blind... Wondering if the Rectifier might be the issue here... The YL and YL-BK wires wires run directly from the stator to the rectifier. I tested ohms on these 2 and didnt get a reading this morning. The BK and BK-RE wire also come off the stator and disappear into the mpem inside of pin 2-17 and 2-16. I tested those 2 and got something like .055 on the meter. Can anyone speculate?
 
Finally got the mpem seperated from the housing.. Does anyone know if the diode I linked in #12 will work? Says its a 6A 20v diode but it doesnt resemble the the ones Ive seen people changing...
Ill prolly start digging into the potting tonight to see if I can find it..
 
Finally got around to the MPEM bench test... suspicions confirmed..popped the 5a immediately. Already started digging into the potting where the diode should be. going to be a long arduous process..
 
cj3737 said:
Finally got the mpem seperated from the housing.. Does anyone know if the diode I linked in #12 will work? Says its a 6A 20v diode but it doesnt resemble the the ones Ive seen people changing...
Ill prolly start digging into the potting tonight to see if I can find it..
Click to expand...

My personal experience changing rectifiers and diodes on boards, I'd go with it, you've got the voltage rated to 20v and 6A is about right for the fuse threshold.
 
I did order those but they are gonna take a month to get.. only concern was the shape.. they dont look like the pix ive seen of the diode in question. I ordered a pack off ebay and those look more like the factory one. guess Ill see what happens when they all show up. I really hope this fixes the mpem issue. If not, im gonna be chasing more gremlins that may be hiding behind my stator...
 
cj3737 said:
I did order those but they are gonna take a month to get.. only concern was the shape.. they dont look like the pix ive seen of the diode in question. I ordered a pack off ebay and those look more like the factory one. guess Ill see what happens when they all show up. I really hope this fixes the mpem issue. If not, im gonna be chasing more gremlins that may be hiding behind my stator...
Click to expand...

I'd go off the voltage/amp rating vs. a pic, I've replaced voltage rectifiers and diodes on some classic arcades I've restored and the components looked much different at times, but it worked.
 
Only question with the amazon ones is, which way to install. They have the band but I dont know which way it goes.
 
cj3737 said:
Only question with the amazon ones is, which way to install. They have the band but I dont know which way it goes.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's like a check valve for current, I don't remember which way the band represents. You could probably google that part. You probably know this, but when you clip or desolder the diode out, check it for a direct short, if it does short (continuity beep) you've hit gold. Then you could plug the MPEM back up and measure which solder point on the board is passing current, then put your diode in.
 
Actually, messing with circuitry is new to me.. learning as I go and trying not to screw it up in the process.. can you explain how to check for the short?
 
cj3737 said:
Actually, messing with circuitry is new to me.. learning as I go and trying not to screw it up in the process.. can you explain how to check for the short?
Click to expand...

Sure, you have multi meter right? Usually even the cheapest meters have a voltage, resistance, and continuity. Put the selector on continuity, touch the red and black test leads and you should get the 'beep'. The beep is continuous until you let go.. Continuity is a good way to check if a current path is good or not. On the diode if it's passing continuity on this test, it's directly shorted and has failed. Usually they'll overheat and fail, opposite of say a fuse that breaks continuity, a diode bridges it and no longer does it check valve function.
 
GGuillot said:
Sure, you have multi meter right? Usually even the cheapest meters have a voltage, resistance, and continuity. Put the selector on continuity, touch the red and black test leads and you should get the 'beep'. The beep is continuous until you let go.. Continuity is a good way to check if a current path is good or not. On the diode if it's passing continuity on this test, it's directly shorted and has failed. Usually they'll overheat and fail, opposite of say a fuse that breaks continuity, a diode bridges it and no longer does it check valve function.
Click to expand...

I do have a multimeter... So if I touch both sides of the diode, and it beeps.. its failed and is bad? or the other way around? Being I havent made it down to the diode yet, could this test give the same results if I test both sides of the fuse slot?
 
The band is your negative (or common) connection on the diode. if you google search diode schematic you'll see it looks like a triangle with a line at the peak. Think of it as an arrow pointing in the direction it passes current and that vertical line is your band on the physical component.

for future reference there's way better sites to order components from that will get you delivery in a couple days and you know exactly what you're getting

digikey
mouser
newark(farnell)
 
cj3737 said:
I do have a multimeter... So if I touch both sides of the diode, and it beeps.. its failed and is bad? or the other way around? Being I havent made it down to the diode yet, could this test give the same results if I test both sides of the fuse slot?
Click to expand...

a diode should only pass currrent in one direction. so with the continuity test you should get a beep (0 resistance) with the meter positive lead on the diode lead opposite of the band and the meter negative lead on the diode lead with the band. with the meter leads opposite you should get no beep and infinite resistance.

 
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