97 Challenger slow...

[Hollymax0428]

I'm new to jet power & sorry about the length of the message but I need help to get this boat going properly.
Mainly my problem is knowing how far down I can screw the RAV valves without causing something damage & how to adjust the carbys.

1st time out with the boat 2 weeks ago it was very slow to plane with 1 person and for a breif period got to around 35 mph after quite a bit of time, but mostly 28-30 mph.
2 People in it was much worse and wouldn't plane doing around 25 mph, 3 people 20 mph.
Revs at 3/4 throttle was 5000 rpm and full throttle still 5,000 rpm.

I was told by the Jetski mechanic it might be the drive shaft carbon seal.

When I pulled the pump off I found there was around 45-50 thou clearance between the impeller and the wear ring.

what I have done so far is:

Replaced wear ring with a new one and put in a used standard impeller with straight blades, the one in there was a seadoo swirl impeller (which was apparently offered as better performance) but had worn around the outside edge.
Replaced the neoprene boot seal between pump housing and hull.
Checked the drive shaft carbon seal which was OK and new 'O' rings on the Seal Carrier.

2nd time out today still slow extremely slow to plane (around 200-300 yards) but with 2 people eventually got up to 30-32 mph, with 1 person slightly faster but still slow to plane. Revs at 3/4 throttle was still 5000 rpm and full throttle no better at 5,000 rpm.

What i found was if i turned hard right and crossed the wake i could get the revs up to the 7000 limiter and it was accelerating but as it started to grip revs dropped immediatley down to 5,000 rpm.

I then tried playing with the Rav valves (which I had taken out and cleaned a few days ago) and where set level with the black casing. Screwed both down 1 full turn, no noticeable difference, screwed to 1/2 turn up from original, no noticeable difference.
In the end I screwed them down 2 full turns and revs now go to 5,500 - 6,000 rpm and much quicker to plane with 1 person (probably 50 yards) so I'm thinking I'm on the right track.

My problem is knowing how far down I can go with the Ravs without causing something some damage.

Motor has been rebuilt 15 hrs ago but around 2000-3000 rpm is very lumpy.
I can't find the adjustments on the Carby (even removing the) air intake the rear carby has some adjustment screw on top which is 1/4 turn out but the other carby's hidden under motor parts. I would think they would be in a place easily accessible so i must be looking in the wrong place.

I would appeciate any help on any of the above (if you are still awake after reading all this)
I've certainly learnt alot about this boat in the last 2 weeks so I guess that's a good thing but frustrating.

Robert

 

[Dr Honda]

Hi,

Sounds like there may be multiple problems.

OK... you said it wouldn't get up on plane for a long time, but I'm assuming it got better after you rebuilt the pump. Also... yes, the carbon seal could be bad... but if it was... the engine would rev to 7000 or higher, and you wouldn't go any were, like when you make the right turn. There is still a slight leak in the pump... but you have other issues too.

In a straight line... your engine is only reving to 5000 PRM's. That could be a bunch of things. The Raves can be stuck. (I know you cleaned them, but they may not be moving) the carbs may need cleaned, or your compression could be low.

I can't help you with the Raves. all I can say is to get the manual, and check for proper function, and adjustment.

the carbs... Do you have gray fuel lines? if you do... they are known to break down, and send melted rubber goo into the carbs, choking them at higher RPMs. If you have gray lines... replace all of them, re-build the carbs, and clean the filters.

Do you know the cyl pressure of your engine? If not... check it.

Let us know what you find.

Just an FYI. That boat running right, will JUMP out of the water if you hit the throttle from a stop (with 2 light adults) accelerate briskly... and top out near 50mph. (more weight will slow it down) Even with 3 normal sized adults... you should come up on plane in 3 or 4 seconds from a dead stop.

 

[Hollymax0428]

Thanks Tony. Yes I'm assuming there is more than one issue.

When I look up the Manuals (& I've downloaded a few) they don't really give the RAV settings that I can see, just a brief explanation of what they do. I saw one photo where the Red plug looked down fairly low against the Black casing, and read somewhere where they just need to be flush??
I'll have to do some more reaserch to see if I can find some settings.

The Carbon seal I had checked and was in nearly new condition, but I agree turning the boat to the right lifts the impeller out of the water and allows the impeller to slip for a while giving the max revs, but as soon as it grabs again revs were dropping down instantly not gradually.

I haven't done a compression test but think the compression should be good after a recent rebuild, but I will check.

All fuel lines are black ones, but that's good to know about the grey ones.

That info on how fast till plane is that the same for the single engine. I have seen Utubes that show the twin engine doing what you say.

I think some of the problem may be in the impeller, but power seems to be also an issue, and I probably need to know if the carby needs adjustment and where the adjustments are.

 

[seadooya]

remove the black caps, and pull up on the raves' stem. Should move freely. If not, removethem and clean, if so, then re-install the caps, and turn the red dots all the way down. Notice the rave looking cap(water regulator) on the muffler, and make sure that one is flush.

Would be a good time to pull the carbys off and go thru them(no need for rebuild...yet). With them out and apart, clean thoroughly, remove all the adjusters..low speed and high speed, then when reassembling, have the hsa at 0, and lsa around 1.5 turns out.

Prior to all this, have you tried pulling the choke to see if rpms increased?

 

[Hollymax0428]

Thanks for the info, RAVEs are a bit confusing re settings. I had already taken them apart and cleaned them. The was a slight build up but still moved freely, but cleaned them anyway. Water RAVE is flush.

The last thing I tried before putting the boat on the trailer yesterday was turn down the RAVEs 2 turns, but was a bit scared in case it was the wrong thing to go any further. I will check again now and turn down all the way if they aren't already with 2 turns. I definetly did see an improvement with one person in turning down the RAVEs. I have since read as you say screw RAVEs all the way in then they changed that to Flush in a supplement???

(OK just took off the RAVEs and 2.5 turns is all the way in so I have done that)

I'm going out now to look at the Carby Adjustments. The picture I have shows the LSA on the outside of the motor near the throttle cables & the HSA on the side facing the engine. My Carbies, on the PTO end, have an adjustment on top of the carby block very near the very end. I can't tell which one this is? Can't see the same at the other end.

(Just took another look - my wife says a womans look- and that screw on top is the HSA without the cap on it. Also found the LSA and adjusted to 1.5 turns)

 

[Dr Honda]

The Carbon seal I had checked and was in nearly new condition, but I agree turning the boat to the right lifts the impeller out of the water and allows the impeller to slip for a while giving the max revs, but as soon as it grabs again revs were dropping down instantly not gradually.

When you checked it... did you remove the drive shaft, and then remove the seal? The one in my boat looked good (even pulling it back) but once I decided to replace it, I could see where one edge was warn more that then other. The new seal made a night and day difference. (seal, thick drive ring, and heavy boot) On that note... the boot can get soft, and not hold the seal tight enough. My old boot was very stiff, but the new one was dam near impossible to pull back.

I haven't done a compression test but think the compression should be good after a recent rebuild, but I will check.

Please check it. One hot run can kill the rings. Also, it's not as easy to do... but you should do a leak-down to make sure the crank seals are good.

That info on how fast till plane is that the same for the single engine. I have seen Utubes that show the twin engine doing what you say.

The single engine boats won't actually "jump" out of the water... but my sportster Whit only me in it, will immediately plane off. If I do a spin... and get back on the throttle... the hull will lift enough to let some air get into the pump. With a few adults... it only takes a few seconds. Honistly... with 3 or 4 people in the boat... I just roll up on the throttle, and the boat comes up as fast as I feed it throttle.

I think some of the problem may be in the impeller, but power seems to be also an issue, and I probably need to know if the carby needs adjustment and where the adjustments are.

Yes, and yes.

My boat is running like new. (full rebuild last spring) If I'm by my self... and I mash the throttle from a stop... it will come up around 6500 rpm's. once it gets to 25~30 mph... the RPM's will climb to about 6900 as it reaches top speed. On a very fine chop... I will start to hit my rev limiter. (7000 rpm)

Wit that said... yes, yo have a power issue. your engine should come up to 6000 RPM or more while loaded. (if it's not cavatating) That's the kind of pump load needed to build the pressure to have a fast acceleration.

As said above... mash the throttle, and lift the choke a little. if you find some more RPM's... you need to rebuild the carbs. If it drops RPM's... then you need to look for engine issues.


Last thing... did your impeller turn freely when you rebuilt the pump?

 

[Hollymax0428]

Thanks again Tony for the Info.
The drive shaft was fine, I replaced the boot. The old one seemed OK but replaced anyway.

The impeller moves freely. Clearance to the new wear ring was still around 20- 25 thou so I'm thinking maybe I need a new impeller, but is certainly better than the original 45-50 thou, and this doesn't explain the lower rpms

Yes during this week I will check the compression. I just bought a guage.

Yes that's the sort of performance I was expecting, but I think I'm slowly getting it better, and learning a lot as I go.

I'm going to have a closer look at the rpms now I have the RAVEs down 2.5 turns, and I have found the LSA and adjusted to 1.5 turns which hopefully I can get the lower revs over the rough spot it has between around 2000-3000 rpm. That could be some of my problem.

I'm going out now to the lake to give it another go and see how it all goes.

 

[seadooya]

The impeller moves freely. Clearance to the new wear ring was still around 20- 25 thou so I'm thinking maybe I need a new impeller, but is certainly better than the original 45-50 thou, and this doesn't explain the lower rpms

QUOTE]

your right...that would not contribute to low rpms. Remove the "rave cap" on the waterbox, if water inside, then the "regulator" is not functioning correctly, and a new bellow is in order. Also, remove the entire unit from the box, and clear the passage out.

 

[Hollymax0428]

OK took the boat out today and back to square one.

With 3 people in the boat 5000 rpm and 15 mph.
With 2 people in the boat 5000 rpm and 25 mph.
With 1 person in the boat 5000 rpm and 30-32 mph.
if lucky enough to go over some rougher water or another boats wake rpms lift to 6000-6500 and speed to around 43 mph with 1 person in. If you turn or slow down the rpms drop to 5000 and won't lift again.

Tried the RAVEs at all different settings from fully down 2.5 turns to up 1 turn from casing and no difference.
Tried the LSA at .5, .75, 1, 1.25, 1.5 1.75 & 2 turns out and no difference.

I'm sure the problem is related to only getting 5000 rpm under load from motor. If you can turn or lift the hull out of the water the rpms hit 7000 then drop back to 6500 while it is slipping but then bites down to 5000 rpm.

Compression test on cylinders cold was 100 psi on both cylinders. Considering the motor has supposedly only done 10 hr since full rebuild I was expecting around 140-150 psi!!

Thankyou Seadooya for the help. Does the Rave on the water regulator govern the rpms of a motor. I will check it but not sure what effect it has.

Thanks for the help so far. Maybe I need a complete new motor, not sure...

I bought the boat with a supposedly rebuilt motor and all going well, but now not so sure.

 

[96seadooxpBC]

shooting in the dark, useless information but worth a shot

when i bought my 95 seadoo xp back 6 months ago, i bought it off an honest guy, who was joining the rcmp, or the royal Canadian mounted police, told me there was 30 hours on the rebuilt engine, ran great, everything was replaced ie every seal and gasket, i couldnt wait to get it to the lake to try it ( i know i bought it before i tried it.. bad! ) but the guy was stand up. i launched it and started it ( started it on land pre hand of course) it ran, i went to let it idle a bit before id get her on plane, you know get the oil flowing and some more optimal engine temp, then i squished the throttle, and to my surprise, after weeks of anticipation on getting on my first ski, it would go about 20 mph and take forever to get on plane, despite my high revs around 5000 rpm, i was averaging 30 mph after running for a while, but when id hit waves, rougher water, it would get up going to about 45-48 mph, and dart off more closer to what id expect, then when id turn, or let off a bit, back dowwwwn again. i was furious, i took it out of the water, checked the wear ring and everything again, it all looked fine from my inspection from what ive learned on here. i put it back in the water hoping maybe the problem went away, no. this is a total shot in the dark, and i know you replaced the wear ring and got right in there, but check your intake grate well, ( well past your intake grate up in the pump ) because i finally got right up in there with my hand, and pulled out a 4 foot long nylon strap, that was apparently invisible to me before, including my brother in law mechanic, after that, well you know the story, i was hauling ass. again this is probably not your problem, but i thought id toss it in too ya from reading your post. goodluck mate, happy boating down there in aus.:cheers:

 

[96seadooxpBC]

oh and another thing, again might not make a difference what i say, but ive read your engine is supposed to be warm/run when you test compression, might be your problem for the 100 on each.

 

[Dr Honda]

oh and another thing, again might not make a difference what i say, but ive read your engine is supposed to be warm/run when you test compression, might be your problem for the 100 on each.

Yes and no. But... a cold check should net 140 psi or better.

Well... 100 psi... I would say that's your problem. I know hindsight is 20/20... but if someone tells you it's "Rebuilt"... ask what was done, and bring a compression gauge. Better yet... take it out on the water before you buy it.

Anyway... you may get away with just a new set of rings. Pull the head and the cylinders off. If they aren't beat up, and the pistons look OK... then you could slap on some new rings, and go. Like I said above... if it was over heated... you could have eaten the rings.

With that low of a cyl pressure... you can't build the torque needed to spin the pump. Oh... and 20 thou clearance is fine. I'm not saying that your impeller is OK ( I can't see it) but the clearance is in spec.

 

[seadooya]

alright bud, obviuoly thees a problem, and before you throw the money at a dealership, in which then ,they charge you more than what the boats worth, you got the forum to help you out and guide you.

I suggest you pull the carbs. Aint nothing but a few wrenches...10mm wrench, and 2 different size allen wrenches and/or allen sockets. Get the carbs off, and set them aside, next i would remove the 4-13mm bolts, thats securing the intake manifold on, to expose the RV. Once thats done, remove the spark plugs and turn the PTO, to bring the "front piston" to TDC..(may want to install long screwdriver down the front plug hole, to verify TDC)....MAKE SURE, when removing the manifold, you do that carefully, so the RV.(rotary valve) does not get hung up on the inside of manifold and come off the gear. Once removed, and piston is TDC, verify that the 2-leading edges of the RV are at 147*/65*, so the top lip is around10/10;30-ish, and bottom lip is 4;30/5-ish..(o'clock). If need be, either from this site or SBT you can download a degree wheel, and print it out., or use a protractor if nearby.

Once this valve is timed correctly or is, then you know, you eliminated that possiblity. Next, moved to the carbs, break them down and clean them, re-install and be done with that possibility. Then, i would move to the RAVES and W.R.(water regulator), verify the raves are clean and bellows in each are in good condition..(tuff to test W.R. without running in water), but atleast, you've looked to make sure, bellows are ok. Finally, with water trial, hopefully, by this point, its fixed, if not, remove the small water line from head pipe, and run boat, to see if the water shooting from the line decreases, while rpm's increase, IF SO, then the regulator is working.

If all above checks out, then while on water, and increasing speed, once your at the WOT, and rpm's remain around 5k, pull the ckoke/pop-it, and see if rpms increase, if so, then you have a fuel delivery problem...sending unit, fuel line/s, inline filter bad, pop-off in carbs are off...etc. IF NO difference, when popping choke, doing all the above..etc, THEN i'd say, like Dr. Honda mentioned, hopefully its just a new set of rings.

All this mentioned, is "speculating" that your gauge is off, along with not holding throttle wide open, when doing the comp. test....godd luck, bud.:cheers:

 

[Hollymax0428]

Thanks for all your help so far.

Knowing that a small thing stuck in the pump area created such bad performance gives me hope. I don't have the original impeller in at the moment. The one I took out was the original seadoo swirl that was apparently an option. The one in now is a straight blade which isn't the one for that boat but out of a jetski.

You are all right I think I will try and sort out some of the things myself rather than rely on the Jetski mechanic (who used to be the ower and did the rebuild). some of the things he is telling me I know aren't quite right,but he might be mistaken??, plus he desn't realy wan't to know much about it.

Also I did do the compression test cold but apparently that will only lift compression a small amount, but I did do it with the throttle closed so I had better do it again the right way. Thanks for that info.

The engine RAVEs seem to be quite clean & the bellows make an air noise when I lift them manally, I will have a look at the Water RAV but not sure still what effect that has on the motor revs but it needs to be eliminated as a cause.

I tried using the choke but it dropped the revs, which could also mean the motor is already running rich.

Probably the way I see it with the limited knowledge of 2 Stroke and jet pumps is the motor doesn't seem to have the power it needs, and the difference in revs between 5000 & 6000 equates to an increase of 40% more speed if you can get it past the 5000 rpm limit it gets to.

Thanks again for the help so far everyone. Will keep posting.

 

[seadooya]

, I will have a look at the Water RAV but not sure still what effect that has on the motor revs but it needs to be eliminated as a cause./QUOTE]

if the regulator is not functioning correctly, it will continue to dump the water into the pipe, which inadvertly, will cause the pipe not to function correctly.

If your impellor is just too tall, possible the motor can not turn it, exiting the water, which then, will produce to much load on it.

 

[ramz61]

hello seadooya. i will like to get my 96 seadoo challenger running. your name was recomended in this forum to contact you for help, i'm new with this seadoo just bought it from a friend he also mention that didn't take it out last season, he empty the gas tank and parked in the garage, i recharge the battery and only turns a couple times and then a long beep. i surge in the FQA site and lots of guys have the similar problems, my issue is i'm not familar the way this seadoo jet operates and if you can helpme getit going, is a 96 seadoo challenger 787 single rotax engine maybe we can contact me via e-mail ramfam61@msn.com thanks victor.

 

[Hollymax0428]

OK now I understand with the Water RAV. I've really only noticed breifly from the back other than idling & it seems not to be putting out a lot of water, but I will check that.

Also I did a compression test tonight with the throttle wide open, but still on a cold motor.
Compression was 115 psi on both cylinders so maybe on a warmed up motor it might be 120 psi?? The compression guage is brand new (not that it is a guarantee) and consistently goes up to the same pressure.

Not sure 120 psi is all that high. I'm going to quize the Jetski Mechanic that did the rebuild. He rebuilt it for himself (original boat owner before the one I bought from) so you would expect he did it properly. I might not be testing 100% correct either.

I'm thinking at this stage I will get a better impeller (a new one) seeing as Seadoo fitted the other swirl prop as a option, maybe a Skat Track or similar.

However even with the other worn swirl impeller and 45-50 thou on a worn wear ring the revs were still 5000 max, but it will be better to eliminate something else and really need doing anyway.

 

[seadooya]

hello seadooya. i will like to get my 96 seadoo challenger running. your name was recomended in this forum to contact you for help, i'm new with this seadoo just bought it from a friend he also mention that didn't take it out last season, he empty the gas tank and parked in the garage, i recharge the battery and only turns a couple times and then a long beep. i surge in the FQA site and lots of guys have the similar problems, my issue is i'm not familar the way this seadoo jet operates and if you can helpme getit going, is a 96 seadoo challenger 787 single rotax engine maybe we can contact me via e-mail ramfam61@msn.com thanks victor.

email sent....

 

[Dr Honda]

OK now I understand with the Water RAV. I've really only noticed breifly from the back other than idling & it seems not to be putting out a lot of water, but I will check that.

Also I did a compression test tonight with the throttle wide open, but still on a cold motor.
Compression was 115 psi on both cylinders so maybe on a warmed up motor it might be 120 psi?? The compression guage is brand new (not that it is a guarantee) and consistently goes up to the same pressure.

Not sure 120 psi is all that high. I'm going to quize the Jetski Mechanic that did the rebuild. He rebuilt it for himself (original boat owner before the one I bought from) so you would expect he did it properly. I might not be testing 100% correct either.

I'm thinking at this stage I will get a better impeller (a new one) seeing as Seadoo fitted the other swirl prop as a option, maybe a Skat Track or similar.

However even with the other worn swirl impeller and 45-50 thou on a worn wear ring the revs were still 5000 max, but it will be better to eliminate something else and really need doing anyway.

On a relatively fresh rebuild... I would expect to see 150 psi. (cold, sparkplug in the hole not being tested, ground the spark plug wires, dry cyl, throttle open)

Assuming the carbs are good, and the crank seals are good... you are probably only making 45 hp with 115 ~ 120 psi cyl pressure.

 

[Hollymax0428]

Thanks Tony.
I spoke to the Jetski mechanic that rebuilt the motor and said it would normally only be between 110-130 psi cold, which sounded low to me.
He said also because it had the wrong prop it was bogging down. I'm still along the lines that the motor is under power??

when you say "you are probably only making 45 hp with 115 ~ 120 psi cyl pressure" is that 45hp out of the 110hp it is supposed to be generating, or 45 hp per cyl.

I'm thinking of ordering a new prop, but getting different props quoted to me;
Solas straight blade SD-SC-X0 16.5/23.5 to a Solas Concord SD-CD-15/23 to a Solas Concord SD-CD-14/22.
Skat-Trak was a 14.5/22.5 Swirl.
Original was a Seadoo swirl type #204-160-027 but not sure of the pitch.
The one I've got in now is a modified #270-000-660 which I think is 16/23?

 

[Dr Honda]

Hi,

My feelings are... since it was the mechanic that did the rebuild... he's telling you that because he doesn't want you to punch him in the nose becasue he sold you a boat that isnt' what he said it is.

So there is any easy way to find out. Run the engine for 15 or 30 seconds without being hooked to a hose (or being in a lake) so the block is warm. Then check the pressure.

As far as the prop... that's up to you. The swirl is known to be the best towing/hole shot prop. The Solas is know to have the best top end, which is good for long trips. (best fuel mileage) If you use the recommended impeller, the top speed will be within a couple MPH of each other.

I personally like the swirl impellers. I know everyone wants to have the fastest top speed... but the swirl will let the boat accelerate the fastest.

Lastly... the 45hp comment was total. that's why you can't see more than 5000 rpm without the pump unloading a little.

Cyl pressure is directly related to engine torque.

 

[Dr Honda]

One thing... and I know this may sound dumb, or basic... but... have you verified that the throttle is actually opening the entire way? It's common that when the engine is reinstalled, people don't check to see if the throttle plates are opening.

Take off the flame arrestor, push the throttle lever, and look in the carbs with a flashlight.

A miss adjusted throttle cable can allow the carbs to only open to about 3/4 throttle. (and give you a 5000 rpm top end)

But I still stand by my other comments about the cyl pressure being extremely low.

 

[Hollymax0428]

Yes I'm with you. Everyone's saying psi should be 130-150 range and equal, & you know what you are talking about so, I will do another test with the motor warm later today our time and hope. (time delay is a problem & I'm stuck with work through the week, but I do appreciate your help and as frustrated as I am getting local help without you guys I would be getting nowhere).

Yes Seadoo offered an option of a swirl type impeller so I think if I can get one I will get the Skat-Trak 14.5/22.5 Swirl. Hard to get parts out here. When I ask it's either "Jetski Boat, don't know anything about them" or "Yes we can order that, will take 6 weeks"
I know there is stock on the Solas Concorde 14/22 but how good compared to the Skat-Trak 14.5/22.5 Swirl. Googling says both are compatible but...

Also I did check the the throttle. Was almost closing with slack in the cable to fully open 90deg. That was one of the first things I did earlier when searching the forum it was suggested to adjust the throttle.

Bit by bit I'm eliminating things. Just out of interest and assuming it does need re-ringing, is it a matter of just taking the head off and each cylinder block, or does the whole motor need to taken out of the boat and dismantled?

I was speaking to one of the other Mechanics at the place where the rebuild was done, about the impeller problem last week, and he mentioned that I shouldn't have any problem with the engine because he remembered rebuilding that engine. Something may have let go since tho.

 

[Dr Honda]

On the Impeller... when I talk about a "Swirl" I'm referring to a Skat-Trak. You can either go with a 14.5/22.5 or a 16/21. Both should get that boat to accelerate fast enough to put a grin on your face.

Ok... lets assume they did the rebuild properly... and someone else messed it up. I would pop the head and the cylinders off, and look at them, and the pistons. If the piston skirts aren't messed up, I would carefully take a piston ring off, and check the end gap to see if it's in spec. If it is... and the bores look good (still see a cross hatch) I would just order a set of rings, and replace them. it should take care of your issue.

IF... you can't see a good solid cross hatch in the cylinders... it was not rebuilt recently. It will take a few hundred hours to wear them away.

If, the piston skirts show wear... it has not been rebuilt recently.

If the piston skirts and crowns are scuffed (scratches)... that would tell me either it was oil starved, or overheated.

Lastly... if you see signs of being over heated... I would check EVERY hose in the cooling system to make sure water is flowing. Is common for people to beach the boat with the engine still running, and push sand into the cooling hoses... choking off the water. (and roasting the engine)

Let us know what you find.

 

[Hollymax0428]

Thanks Tony.
I will get the warm motor compression test done 1st and let you know.

Probably what I was getting at, and by the sounds of what you are saying the head & cylinder initial work can be done without taking out the motor from the boat, and if so doesn't sound like too hard a job?.

The problem with the impellers is getting anyone to supply me other than what is a vailable for jetski's. Skat-trak suppliers just don't seem to exist in Oz. Only found 1 supplier with any stock of Solas so far, but will keep looking.