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96 XP Waterlocked

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Casey1 said:
If those TTO tachs are better I need to get one. On the VTS, yes, I think that is what he meant.

On the rebuild, you get to pick from Pro-x, Wiseco or OEM pistons and for the crankshaft connecting rods: pick from Hotrod, Wiseco or OEM. I will check compression...do you know what it should be?

The water regulator I got from Nick@westsidepowersports and is working great. The original one was leaking badly.

IIRC?
Click to expand...
Not sure what to say about the tach.

So the high performed build is just your choice of parts, no upgrade in actual HP.

Compression should be 150.

Good to hear about the regulator, rules that out.

IIRC:

If I Remember Correctly
 
racerxxx said:
Not sure what to say about the tach.

So the high performed build is just your choice of parts, no upgrade in actual HP.

Compression should be 150.

Good to hear about the regulator, rules that out.

IIRC:

If I Remember Correctly
Click to expand...

From what Tom @ SES told me it has 135 hp IIRC :thumbsup:

Even with it not reaching the 6900-6950...yet, I can definitely tell a difference in the power this engine has compared to the stock one. It released the Kraken no doubt. I can't wait to see what it will do when I can get it above 7000 rpms
 
Could this possibly an exhaust leak? I noticed it the other day but didn't think much about it until I noticed it was more black today. It's on the mag side and if you look at the pic of the PTO side no black.
If it is then maybe that's where I am losing that other 100-150 rpms.IMG_3877.jpgIMG_3878.jpg
 
That black indicates a leak that will cut into your rpm. It looks like an exhaust leak to me because it's dry and when the rave bellows pop off it makes a wet exhaust juice. Maybe that's just because you ran a rag over it. That cylinder to manifold gasket looks like the original so it's a suspect.
 
Matt Braley said:
That black indicates a leak that will cut into your rpm. It looks like an exhaust leak to me because it's dry and when the rave bellows pop off it makes a wet exhaust juice. Maybe that's just because you ran a rag over it. That cylinder to manifold gasket looks like the original so it's a suspect.
Click to expand...

Should I use the copper silicone along with a new gasket? I don't think my friend used the copper when he put the manifold on. I did put it on(copper) where the pipe connects to the (manifold?) and where the two pipes come together with the big metal clamp along with the copper ring that goes in between.

Now that I think about it Matt, that is a new gasket that came with the newly rebuilt engine.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I like to use the copper coat on gaskets like exhaust manifold to cylinders and also on manifold to head pipe gasket. I use small bead of copper silicone on big copper ring on pipe. Not a lot or it looks like hell
 
All gaskets should go on dry.

The only exception is the copper ring on the two pipe parts gets a coat of Ultra Copper RTV.
 
Thanks fellas, I am going to put a new gasket on tomorrow and check the bellow in that rave and make sure it is ok. I may be sending some pics of the bellow to see what y'all think.
 
Just curious...what would cause a brand new gasket to leak? I am thinking it is a newbie installing his engine for the first time and possibly didn't get the bolts on tight enough. Although, I am pretty sure I did. Do those bolts need a lock washer on them?
 
Check the parts diagram for correct fasteners and washers. I am pretty sure the manifold bolts have lock washers but I use loctite on them too. Make sure all surfaces are spotless and flat.
Just a question.... Did you use the manifold to align the cylinders before you torqued them down per the manual? If not the cylinders will be out of alignment creating a poor seal as the surfaces are not even.
 
mikidymac said:
Check the parts diagram for correct fasteners and washers. I am pretty sure the manifold bolts have lock washers but I use loctite on them too. Make sure all surfaces are spotless and flat.
Just a question.... Did you use the manifold to align the cylinders before you torqued them down per the manual? If not the cylinders will be out of alignment creating a poor seal as the surfaces are not even.
Click to expand...
My buddy who helped me install the engine, because I didn’t know anything about these machinesAt the time, put the manifold on the engine so I am not sure. I’m not sure I know how to do that.
 
The cylinders were installed at SES. I'd check the rave out for "exhaust juice" first because it's easier and more likely. If you go through the trouble of pulling the manifold at least you can open up the port holes if necessary and center it correctly to pick up a few more rpm.
 
Matt Braley said:
The cylinders were installed at SES. I'd check the rave out for "exhaust juice" first because it's easier and more likely. If you go through the trouble of pulling the manifold at least you can open up the port holes if necessary and center it correctly to pick up a few more rpm.
Click to expand...
I will definitely check the rave first. Does the manual show you how to align it correctly?
 
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