96 XP Waterlocked

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.
Casey1

Casey1

Member
The problem started when I didn't tighten the hose at the rear of the ski that goes from the pump to the WR and then to the engine. It came off and the hull filled up with water and the engine water locked. I took the steps to get the water out of the engine and after awhile it wasn't turning over at all, no lights or anything. I took the black box next to the battery apart and it was filled up with water and also a lot of corrosion on the connections. I cleaned all of the connections and checked the fuses and put it all back together. After a long procees I finally got the engine to start. When I started riding to blow it out, it was running good but started missing or hesitating. I thought I might have fowled the plugs from the water that was left over so I put new plugs in and it is still hesitating or missing and seems to be getting worse and not wanting to start at all. Not sure what to check now.IMG_3847.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
mikidymac said:
How about in the engine?
Click to expand...

Well, I got most of the water and WD-40 out of the engine the second day. The beginning of the 3rd day is when I noticed the black box filled with water. I cleaned the connections and it fired up after that.
 
It was the white wire that plugs into the coil that was culprit. Thanks Matt!

It is running great now. The highest I have seen the tach is briefly touching 6800 rpms and that is with a newly rebuilt engine and carbs:

Lows 1 1/4
Highs 1/8 mag and 1/4 PTO

What do I need to do to get it to 6900-6950 rpms?
 
After cleaning up after the hydro lock I found these two little rubber pieces in the bottom of the hull. Does anyone know what they are? Not sure if they were from PO or if they need to be put back where they go.
IMG_3857.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It’s a plug for the hole in the air box lid broken in half. It’s for spraying fogging oil into the carbs
 
Setting is correct but the black cable should be in the COM (common) middle hole on the meter.
 
Aaaaah, so that's where that wire goes. As you can see I am not too verse when it comes to a multimeter, although I need to learn if I want to work on these machines.

So it started on the display O.L, then it showed 00.0 then climbed as high as 01.0 and finally settled around 00.7(The manual said it should read 0.34-0.62) is the coil ok or am I doing something wrong with the meter?
 
Here is something else I was wondering. When I mash the throttle all the way down and reach under the carbs and grab the throttle lever ( I think that's what the black thing called in the pic is), I can still move it open another 1/4" or so. Is that normal or do I need to adjust the linkage somehow?IMG_3866.jpg
 
First off, replace the small oil injection line in the top of your last picture. Those are the original ones from the factory and are known to break and destroy the engine. You can get 3/32" tygon fuel line that will replace it from a mower shop or Home Depot.

If the carbs are not opening all the way your throttle cable is not adjusted correctly at the carb or in the wrong hole in the carb wheel.
 
OK, I will replace them tomorrow and I appreciate that. Do you mean there is another hole that the cylinder on the end of the throttle cable can go in to? If I have to adjust the cable, is that done on that plate on the mag carb with the nuts on both sides of the plate?
 
There are sometimes two holes but yes the two nuts are what adjust the cable. You should have 2 mm of play in the throttle lever.
 
Ok, good deal. Glad you cleared that up. I probably should have checked that when I rebuilt the carbs. Now with the highs closed like Matt suggested and getting the carbs to open up all the way will probably get me to that 6900-6950 rpms.
 
I cleaned the black box today by taking everything apart, cleaning the connections with a wire brush, coated all connections with dielectric grease. There are no misses or hesitation whatsoever after cleaning the electric box, and the coil is fine. The throttle cable is fine. What I was doing by moving the levers on the carb with my finger was pushing it past 90*.

Matt, I closed the highs like you suggested and it actually touched 6850 a few times. I still haven't seen 6900-6950 since I put this rebuilt engine in. Is there something else possibly that I am missing that will get it up to there?

Oil lines are going in tomorrow mikidymac.
 
So, you never mentioned if you ever saw it hit higher than 6800 BEFORE you water logged it. So we could be looking for missing RPM that wasn't there before. And if this is a brand new engine the last thing you should be doing is looking for 6900 RPM (again...not stated if you broke the engine in yet), do you know what impeller is in it? SOmeone could have changed it.

Are you relying on the old stock tach? If so buy a TTO tach, not to sure I'd put a lot of stock in a 20 some year old tach.

Where is the VTS set, does it work? If the bow is down you're pushing water, trim the bow up and you'll hear the RPM rise since there is less boat in the water. I don't think you'll reach full RPM with the VTS down.
 
racerxxx said:
So, you never mentioned if you ever saw it hit higher than 6800 BEFORE you water logged it. So we could be looking for missing RPM that wasn't there before. And if this is a brand new engine the last thing you should be doing is looking for 6900 RPM (again...not stated if you broke the engine in yet), do you know what impeller is in it? SOmeone could have changed it.

Are you relying on the old stock tach? If so buy a TTO tach, not to sure I'd put a lot of stock in a 20 some year old tach.

Where is the VTS set, does it work? If the bow is down you're pushing water, trim the bow up and you'll hear the RPM rise since there is less boat in the water. I don't think you'll reach full RPM with the VTS down.
Click to expand...

No, I never saw it hit 6800 before I water logged it.

I had S.E.S.(Seadoo Engine Shop) do their high-performance rebuild on it and the engine has about 20ish hours with a proper break-in.

I am pretty sure that it has the stock impeller still on it but that is about to change. I just bought a Skat Trac 12 vein magnum pump and swirl impeller from the man, the myth, the legend, Matt Braley and I can't wait to put it on!

Racer, the tach is a Kedsum I picked up off of Amazon for like $15 that wraps around the SP wire. Maybe that is the issue. I am not verse in how accurate these kind are.

The PO, which is a friend, bought the upgraded VTS(whatever that means), before I bought it from him. I trim it all the way up and usually by trimming it down just a hair I get the 6850 to touch a few times but it seems to average around 6790ish.

I was out rippin' glass today on it and it was running like a scalded ape but If it is suppose to hit that 6900-6950 I would like to get it there especially with this HP engine rebuild. :thumbsup:
 
Never saw any guys use that tach, I'd say 99% of the guys who use an aftermarket tach use the TTO tach.

Not saying that's where your missing RPM's are but maybe someone here will chime in with some experience with the Kedsum.

Not sure what the "upgraded" VTS is. I'll assume he used the "Trim fix" module to repair the old unit. Just mentioning the VTS as I didn't want to to be looking for those RPM while plowing water all day.

Not sure what the SES High performance engine consists of. Have you checked the compression since the rebuild? One of our members here had gotten a 720 rebuilt at SES that would never push more than 140PSI (should have been 150) per hole and it eventually went. They did warranty it but the guy sold the ski right after break in on the warranty engine. Just something else to check. Also, do you have the water regulator on the water box? If so, is it dribbling water? If it is, there is probably a pin hole in the diaphragm, this will rob you of a little power too IIRC.
 
If those TTO tachs are better I need to get one. On the VTS, yes, I think that is what he meant.

On the rebuild, you get to pick from Pro-x, Wiseco or OEM pistons and for the crankshaft connecting rods: pick from Hotrod, Wiseco or OEM. I will check compression...do you know what it should be?

The water regulator I got from Nick@westsidepowersports and is working great. The original one was leaking badly.

IIRC?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

D
2000 seadoo GTX won't start
Replies
13
Views
224
Spoody6677
S
Jlutty3
1998 GSX 951 Spontaneous Start!??
Replies
3
Views
109
2strokeboy
2strokeboy
1
97' XP 800 Stalling when accelerating
Replies
10
Views
205
Grim
Grim
Owenl
No spark 1995 seadoo xp
Replies
0
Views
115
Owenl
Owenl
A
Gti le rfi is acting up PLEASE HELP
Replies
8
Views
406
alex_richardson751
A
Back
Top