96 Sea-Doo Challenger 5896

[mejim707]

Yes, you can just pull the plugs and pour just a bit into each cylinder. It’s really not necessary, as there is plenty of oil trapped in the crankcase to get you through the initial startup. The pump flows almost no oil at idle anyway, so you’re not going to hurt anything, but you can add a little oil or premix if it makes you feel a bit better.

These motors are high strung for sure, but they’re far more resilient than people give them credit for. Just use the correct OEM parts and a good synthetic API-TC rated oil and let her rip...

Hi Jeremy, so I tried the suggestion on filling the oil lines. I started it up then pulled the lever on the oil pump. This caused the engine to rev because the cable is also connected to the throttle it seems. I watched the lines but after only 10 or so seconds it maybe filled about 1.5 inches. I'm slightly concerned about running the engine for longer and causing damage.

How long is it safe to run the engine for without the oil getting into the mix? Also, should I remove the cable connecting to the oil pump before moving the lever?

Thanks

 

[mikidymac]

You pulled the wrong lever. Pulling the oil pump arm wide open will have no effect on the idle speed.

 

[mejim707]

You pulled the wrong lever. Pulling the oil pump arm wide open will have no effect on the idle speed.

This is what I was moving to get the oil flowing. The circular piece with the cable attached.

However, I’ve taken a different route. I removed the pump and using a drill with a custom attachment, and running in reverse, I watched as the oil pumped up through the lines. Looks like everything is primed. I don’t see any bubbles in the lines or filter.

A few questions;

A. Could you install the pump where the pin does not seat in the groved part of the magneto?
B. Could the part the spins the oil pump, in the magneto, be disconnected or not work to spin the pump?

 

[noviceskier]

You pulled the wrong lever. Pulling the oil pump arm wide open will have no effect on the idle speed.

the throttle cable end is on the pump arm, guessing he must've pulled it with cable arm attached accidentally revving it?

 

[noviceskier]

How long is it safe to run the engine for without the oil getting into the mix? Also, should I remove the cable connecting to the oil pump before moving the lever?

Thanks

yes remove that cable, engine should have plenty of oil at idle. Open bleed screw and open pump arm in the wot position. Wait till all the air has been evacuated and you're good.

don't forget to make sure marks are aligned too.

 

[mikidymac]

I have never removed the cable when bleeding the pump and never had it change the rpm.

But either way you got it bled so carry on.

 

[mejim707]

I have never removed the cable when bleeding the pump and never had it change the rpm.

But either way you got it bled so carry on.

Any thoughts on that last question? Is it possible to install the pump where the metal tab does not interface with the slot and is it possible the part that goes into the magneto is not spinning the pump? Sorry for all the questions.

 

[mejim707]

Also, is this port for the hose supposed to be blocked?

 

[jts32]

Also, is this port for the hose supposed to be blocked?

No, just leave it open.

 

[jts32]

I'm not understanding this trim mechanism. Are these black plastic parts supposed to float around in this slide in the controls mechanism or is one of them supposed to be secured / locked in place? Them floating and sliding like this makes the trim almost unusable from what I can see. I'm not too familiar with sea-doos so please pardon me being naive.

I have two '96 Challengers. The VTS doesn't do much. The nozzle will only move about 3/4-1" from full down to full up. If you're getting that amount of movement, it's working like it's supposed to.

 

[mejim707]

No, just leave it open.

OK great, I’ll leave the poor open. Thanks.

 

[mejim707]

So I just brought it down to the lake and let it run for about 10 minutes altering of the RPMs somewhat revving the engine. Seem to run really well. Also blue smoke but not too much. So I think it’s getting the proper amount of oil. Going to take it out for a little run around in a bit. I also felt the engine and after 10 minutes it was still cool. The cylinders were warm but nothing bad. Sounds like no seizing for me lol what do you think?

 

[Steve762us]

OK great, I’ll leave the poor open. Thanks.

When you flush engine on hose, close it ("close on hose").

When running boat on water, open it--or it will isolate part of the cooling circuit.

 

[mejim707]

Welp, after running it for the 10 minutes at one dock I we to a different one because that was too busy. And it would not start consistently. All I would get was a clink. It started twice but being that inconsistent concerns me. It seems like something that supposed to be sending power to the starter is not engaging. I looked in the electrical box and I see the two large red battery lines going to a small black box and then from that to the starter. Could it be that that unit is bad?

 

[JeremyD615]

Is your beeper/buzzer working? If you’re not hearing any beeps, it could be the connection between the DESS post and the key, or it could also be the neutral safety switch. If the boat thinks you are not in neutral, it will not send power to the starter solenoid.

 

[mejim707]

Is your beeper/buzzer working? If you’re not hearing any beeps, it could be the connection between the DESS post and the key, or it could also be the neutral safety switch. If the boat thinks you are not in neutral, it will not send power to the starter solenoid.

Yeah im getting two beeps when I put the key on. But when I press the button it just clicks in the back. I hear something try to engage. Could it be that starter solenoid in the electric box? It’s like something is trying to engage or clicking / clinking but nothing. It did this yesterday. But then worked. This is why I changed the starter but I guess the old starter was fine. Waste of 45 loots. I’m so close fellas! Working out the kinks.

 

[JeremyD615]

It’s possible that you’re having issues with the solenoid, but it’s not all that common. I’m not sure where to go with it next. Hopefully someone that’s got a little more experience than I do will jump in shortly.

 

[mikidymac]

All aftermarket starters are junk so it could be your $45 replacement starter is already on it's way out.

 

[mejim707]

All aftermarket starters are junk so it could be your $45 replacement starter is already on it's way out.

Very good point. I'm going to try and bridge the posts on the solenoid to see if that allows it to turn over. If so it's the solenoid. I'll also purchase the brush kit for the oem starter. Do you have a product on Amazon or elsewhere you could suggest that you stand by?

Thanks again for all the help!

 

[mikidymac]

I just buy the ones from ebay. The Amazon ones kept shipping without all the parts so I gave up with them.

 

[mejim707]

I’m still going to get the brush kit for the old starter since I tested it and it’s definitely bad. Only worked about 1 out of 5 tests.

BUT, I did have a bad solenoid as well. Look at the crap on the contacts. Between this and the bad / intermittent starter I was having a heck of a time starting up. Now it tries to start strong every time!