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96 gsx800
- Thread starter mango11
- Start date
- Status
Yeehaa Mo'fo's :hurray::hurray::hurray:
Im now excited:rofl:
Before introducing spark, i degreased again, and sprayed water dispersant, and checked wiring etc,
I did find a few blind electrical plugs in the bottom of the hull, all were refitted, and i also opened the iggnition box and found 2 wires unplugged, i then found another connector unplugges near the mpem.
I then opened up the mpem box to check fuses and all was good.
By now everything was dryso i proceeded to fit the battery then pressed the start button 5 times, heard no beeps but the VTS worked like a charm, i just need to replace the tie-rod to the nozzle.
Then i put a magnet on the DESS post (i read this somewhere) and the guages lit up and the mode and set buttons worked, but still no beeps.
Then i pressed start again and got an all mighty beep that beeped for ages, like 30 seconds to a minute and nothing i did stopped it
Then i pressed start and it beeped until i pressed start again and it stopped??
Now every time i press start it beeps for ages?????
From my guess work,,,,
I have now confirmed;
The engine to be free, with no sticking points etc,
The VTS system to be fine,
The info center guage to be working, (although water damages i think)
And the MPEM to be working? (or i wouldnt have power)
Now to get a key programmed, should do this in the next few days, however im happy thus far, does everything seem kosher to you guys so far???
I am a member of a fishing and boating forum in aus called Fishnet.com.au and this forum with premiem membership and acess to manuals etc leaves it for dead, a great credit to all those that make it possible.
Cheers :cheers:
Im now excited:rofl:
Before introducing spark, i degreased again, and sprayed water dispersant, and checked wiring etc,
I did find a few blind electrical plugs in the bottom of the hull, all were refitted, and i also opened the iggnition box and found 2 wires unplugged, i then found another connector unplugges near the mpem.
I then opened up the mpem box to check fuses and all was good.
By now everything was dryso i proceeded to fit the battery then pressed the start button 5 times, heard no beeps but the VTS worked like a charm, i just need to replace the tie-rod to the nozzle.
Then i put a magnet on the DESS post (i read this somewhere) and the guages lit up and the mode and set buttons worked, but still no beeps.
Then i pressed start again and got an all mighty beep that beeped for ages, like 30 seconds to a minute and nothing i did stopped it
Then i pressed start and it beeped until i pressed start again and it stopped??
Now every time i press start it beeps for ages?????
From my guess work,,,,
I have now confirmed;
The engine to be free, with no sticking points etc,
The VTS system to be fine,
The info center guage to be working, (although water damages i think)
And the MPEM to be working? (or i wouldnt have power)
Now to get a key programmed, should do this in the next few days, however im happy thus far, does everything seem kosher to you guys so far???
I am a member of a fishing and boating forum in aus called Fishnet.com.au and this forum with premiem membership and acess to manuals etc leaves it for dead, a great credit to all those that make it possible.
Cheers :cheers:
Right track....
Yeah, your on the right track. The 30 second delay timer is working now, that's why you loose all power after 33 seconds. Your suppose to be able to push the start/stop button and it will light up accessory power for 33 seconds. This will allow you to see gages and work the VTS but no start.
I'm curious about the advanced diagnostic mode because you should be able to do that and get your beeps. Of course, if your trying to use the magnet, it won't work.
But, sounds like your on your way!....:cheers:
Yeah, your on the right track. The 30 second delay timer is working now, that's why you loose all power after 33 seconds. Your suppose to be able to push the start/stop button and it will light up accessory power for 33 seconds. This will allow you to see gages and work the VTS but no start.
I'm curious about the advanced diagnostic mode because you should be able to do that and get your beeps. Of course, if your trying to use the magnet, it won't work.
But, sounds like your on your way!....:cheers:
Advanced diagnostics...?
You really won't be able to USE the advanced diagnostics because you don't have a working lanyard but you will be able to tell if your mpem and start/stop button are working properly, communicating with each other.
The advanced diagnostics is used for a few tests, checking to see if your lanyard is communicating, or the mpem is bad by signaling you with a series of beeps. Without the lanyard, all you can do is attempt to set it up. That, you do not need the lanyard for.
What you do is, without the lanyard or magnet on the post, push the start/stop button 5 times in succession. At the 5th push of the button, you should hear one long and one short beep to signify that you are in the advanced mode. When you are, then you are suppose to apply your lanyard to the post to see if you have any problems with the lanyard, post or mpem. If no other beeps are heard after connecting your lanyard, then everything is a go for a start........:cheers:
You really won't be able to USE the advanced diagnostics because you don't have a working lanyard but you will be able to tell if your mpem and start/stop button are working properly, communicating with each other.
The advanced diagnostics is used for a few tests, checking to see if your lanyard is communicating, or the mpem is bad by signaling you with a series of beeps. Without the lanyard, all you can do is attempt to set it up. That, you do not need the lanyard for.
What you do is, without the lanyard or magnet on the post, push the start/stop button 5 times in succession. At the 5th push of the button, you should hear one long and one short beep to signify that you are in the advanced mode. When you are, then you are suppose to apply your lanyard to the post to see if you have any problems with the lanyard, post or mpem. If no other beeps are heard after connecting your lanyard, then everything is a go for a start........:cheers:
well guys, im having dramas getting a key for the dess system as i dont know whos name is originally on the mpem.
EIther way i have all reciepts etc so i am taking it into our roads authority to ogtain registration.
They cant seem to find the hull id number or the old rego number on their system so i have to give them the engine number and re-register it, atleast then , legally the ski is in my name according to a governing body, then i should have no probs getting a key and seeing if the thing finally starts.
I am having trouble finding the engine number though, there is a id plate on top of the fly wheel that ways the specs of bore/ stroke/ cc etc and also has a number on it, is this the engine number?????
I conveyed this to our roads dept and they said it wasnt.......
Maybe i need to take it in to them for an inspection.
EIther way i have all reciepts etc so i am taking it into our roads authority to ogtain registration.
They cant seem to find the hull id number or the old rego number on their system so i have to give them the engine number and re-register it, atleast then , legally the ski is in my name according to a governing body, then i should have no probs getting a key and seeing if the thing finally starts.
I am having trouble finding the engine number though, there is a id plate on top of the fly wheel that ways the specs of bore/ stroke/ cc etc and also has a number on it, is this the engine number?????
I conveyed this to our roads dept and they said it wasnt.......
Maybe i need to take it in to them for an inspection.
Single beep..?
Don't know what happened there but it sounds like, the mpem is registering an incorrect lanyard now. As if the lanyard is still on, never being removed.
When you put a lanyard on, if it's the correct one, you should get two beeps. If it's the wrong one, you should get one long beep. With no lanyard on the post at all, when you push the start/stop button, you shouldn't hear anything. But, you should get power to accessories for 33 seconds.
If you push the start/stop button 5 times in succession, you should hear one long, one short beep. This signals that you are in advanced diagnostics.
Did the magnet cause a conflict? I don't know. I've never tried to use a magnet. I do know, the lanyard communicates to the mpem through magnetics between the post and mpem. The lanyard has a ROM chip inside that has the security information in it. By using the magnet, has this caused a problem?... I have no idea.
Don't know what happened there but it sounds like, the mpem is registering an incorrect lanyard now. As if the lanyard is still on, never being removed.
When you put a lanyard on, if it's the correct one, you should get two beeps. If it's the wrong one, you should get one long beep. With no lanyard on the post at all, when you push the start/stop button, you shouldn't hear anything. But, you should get power to accessories for 33 seconds.
If you push the start/stop button 5 times in succession, you should hear one long, one short beep. This signals that you are in advanced diagnostics.
Did the magnet cause a conflict? I don't know. I've never tried to use a magnet. I do know, the lanyard communicates to the mpem through magnetics between the post and mpem. The lanyard has a ROM chip inside that has the security information in it. By using the magnet, has this caused a problem?... I have no idea.
Bummer....
Just what I was worried about.
The Seadoo's have two numbers on them, one is the EIN (engine ID) and the other is the HIN (hull ID). On the enigne ID for the 787, it's printed on a stamp across the back side of the upper right hand casing. Easily seen looking down on the motor from the top right.
The hull number is on the back of the ski, usually just under the area where you board from. It too is on the right side.
If they are wanting to check the license on it, you'd think they wanted the hull ID number, not the engine. So, grab it off the back right of the ski and take it to them.
I'm attaching a pix of what your engine ID tag looks like but this is only on the original equipment. If the engine was ever changed out with a remanufactured engine, it will be missing this tag. That's why I don't see why they want that number.
The pix is a bit blurry, I took it with my cell phone but across the top of the plate it will say Bombardier Rotax, then below the serial numbers is what type of motor, bore and stroke. Then, far right "Made in Austria".
I'm also sending you a PM.
Just what I was worried about.
The Seadoo's have two numbers on them, one is the EIN (engine ID) and the other is the HIN (hull ID). On the enigne ID for the 787, it's printed on a stamp across the back side of the upper right hand casing. Easily seen looking down on the motor from the top right.
The hull number is on the back of the ski, usually just under the area where you board from. It too is on the right side.
If they are wanting to check the license on it, you'd think they wanted the hull ID number, not the engine. So, grab it off the back right of the ski and take it to them.
I'm attaching a pix of what your engine ID tag looks like but this is only on the original equipment. If the engine was ever changed out with a remanufactured engine, it will be missing this tag. That's why I don't see why they want that number.
The pix is a bit blurry, I took it with my cell phone but across the top of the plate it will say Bombardier Rotax, then below the serial numbers is what type of motor, bore and stroke. Then, far right "Made in Austria".
I'm also sending you a PM.
Attachments
Its been a while but i finally achieved a few things,,,,,
I finally got our roads dept to register the ski with its original numbers, i also got the trailer registered (heaps of drama)
Then i took it over with the rego papers to a sea-doo service center and got told that in season, they wont look at any craft older than 2002:rant:
They finally programmed a key for me, then re programmed all the on board data to prove its mine,
So now all papers and on board computer all share the same info, a good start i think.
Then i diagnosed the starter solenoid to be faulty whilst at the service center so i got them to fit it, then we had cranking, but still with an annoying long beep???
I traced this back to the temp sender in the head.
When installed and connected it beeps as if its in fault.
When disconnected it stops and no fault,
When not installed into the head but connected no fault also??
In ice water or boiling water no faults either only when the sender touches the engine?????
(any help on this one would be great)
So for now ill leave it off and source a new one for starters.
Then apparently my primer was rooted and i needed a new one, so before it cost me a fortune i brought it home with my key and relay and now im fiddling.
The primer just needed bleeding so thats done, i have fuel at the carbies, i have power and a key that works, no beeping (temp unit unplugged), and i get correct 2 short beeps when i apply the key.
I got the hose ready, a fire extinguisher, and a few prayers and wheeled it out side, and bugger me it started first crank:hurray::hurray::hurray:
I warmed it for 5 minutes or so, although idling a little rough, which id expect as it hasnt run for 6 months or more, and i then went to check compression, only to find my compression tester has the wrong fitting on it....
So tomorrow ill get an adapter and check comps to see where im really at, i didnt want to over rev or anything silly if the comps are way out, i guess its easier to rebuild a motor with low comp than it is to remove shattered pistons and rods, so ill wait to see the comps.
With regard to her idling rough, after checking comps tomorrow i will put in 2 new plugs and let it run for a little as when i started dry cranking i pumped a few squirts of 2 stroke oil in the pots so as not to damage anything so i think that may be the reason.
Any help or reccomendations as to where to go with the project next would be welcomed as at the moment if the comps are good im thinking of just putting her in the water tommorow afternoon, can anyone see why not, if any reason?????
Thanks for the help guys
I finally got our roads dept to register the ski with its original numbers, i also got the trailer registered (heaps of drama)
Then i took it over with the rego papers to a sea-doo service center and got told that in season, they wont look at any craft older than 2002:rant:
They finally programmed a key for me, then re programmed all the on board data to prove its mine,
So now all papers and on board computer all share the same info, a good start i think.
Then i diagnosed the starter solenoid to be faulty whilst at the service center so i got them to fit it, then we had cranking, but still with an annoying long beep???
I traced this back to the temp sender in the head.
When installed and connected it beeps as if its in fault.
When disconnected it stops and no fault,
When not installed into the head but connected no fault also??
In ice water or boiling water no faults either only when the sender touches the engine?????
(any help on this one would be great)
So for now ill leave it off and source a new one for starters.
Then apparently my primer was rooted and i needed a new one, so before it cost me a fortune i brought it home with my key and relay and now im fiddling.
The primer just needed bleeding so thats done, i have fuel at the carbies, i have power and a key that works, no beeping (temp unit unplugged), and i get correct 2 short beeps when i apply the key.
I got the hose ready, a fire extinguisher, and a few prayers and wheeled it out side, and bugger me it started first crank:hurray::hurray::hurray:
I warmed it for 5 minutes or so, although idling a little rough, which id expect as it hasnt run for 6 months or more, and i then went to check compression, only to find my compression tester has the wrong fitting on it....
So tomorrow ill get an adapter and check comps to see where im really at, i didnt want to over rev or anything silly if the comps are way out, i guess its easier to rebuild a motor with low comp than it is to remove shattered pistons and rods, so ill wait to see the comps.
With regard to her idling rough, after checking comps tomorrow i will put in 2 new plugs and let it run for a little as when i started dry cranking i pumped a few squirts of 2 stroke oil in the pots so as not to damage anything so i think that may be the reason.
Any help or reccomendations as to where to go with the project next would be welcomed as at the moment if the comps are good im thinking of just putting her in the water tommorow afternoon, can anyone see why not, if any reason?????
Thanks for the help guys
another up date.....
This morning i went to get an adapter for my comp tester and plugs and a temp switch to no avail, anyhow i did manage to comp test the baby.
With a totally cold engine i comp tested the 1st cylender 3 times and got 145 every time,
I then tested the 2nd cylinder and got 135, 3 times.
I then cleaned the old plugs and dried them out and re fitted then started her up, it was a lot crisper with clean plugs so i cant wait to get new ones in tomorrow.
I ran the ski for 5-8 minutes, running at a few different rev ranges etc, once warmed up i tested comps again with a warm engine.
I got 1st cylinder, 3 x 135
2nd cylinder, 3 x 130
I think these are a little low, however as they are both equal i am thinking they will get me through the next 2 months, then i will rebuild the pump section and do the piston and rings, and also kit all the raves.
Not sure if i would need to get into the bottom end as i havent really found much wrong as yet.
This morning i went to get an adapter for my comp tester and plugs and a temp switch to no avail, anyhow i did manage to comp test the baby.
With a totally cold engine i comp tested the 1st cylender 3 times and got 145 every time,
I then tested the 2nd cylinder and got 135, 3 times.
I then cleaned the old plugs and dried them out and re fitted then started her up, it was a lot crisper with clean plugs so i cant wait to get new ones in tomorrow.
I ran the ski for 5-8 minutes, running at a few different rev ranges etc, once warmed up i tested comps again with a warm engine.
I got 1st cylinder, 3 x 135
2nd cylinder, 3 x 130
I think these are a little low, however as they are both equal i am thinking they will get me through the next 2 months, then i will rebuild the pump section and do the piston and rings, and also kit all the raves.
Not sure if i would need to get into the bottom end as i havent really found much wrong as yet.
ive finally got the beast going, ive updated another thread as i couldnt find this one, lol
Anyhow its going but the long beep fault was the temp sender in the head failing.
I have disconnected it for now but i need another, any specs on them, i cant find any other than temp range.......,
Anyhow its going but the long beep fault was the temp sender in the head failing.
I have disconnected it for now but i need another, any specs on them, i cant find any other than temp range.......,
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Merged...
I merged your threads together as you asked. The thread in the open forum had over 200 views so I brought your premium thread into this one.
I don't know the ohm readings right away on your temp sensor since I'm at work and have no manuals to refer. I'll have to bring in my laptop tomorrow.
I will say this and it might be worth considering. At your local auto parts store, you can buy a standard temp sensor that is gaged, with a dial, and connect it to your head temp sensor. This would allow you to actually see what your temp is and determine if the problem is actually in the sensor or the wiring.
I like my temp gage but the only problem is mounting. I've had to leave it inside the engine compartment because there is no real place to put it outside that will blend in.:cheers:
ive finally got the beast going, ive updated another thread as i couldnt find this one, lol
Anyhow its going but the long beep fault was the temp sender in the head failing.
I have disconnected it for now but i need another, any specs on them, i cant find any other than temp range.......,
I merged your threads together as you asked. The thread in the open forum had over 200 views so I brought your premium thread into this one.
I don't know the ohm readings right away on your temp sensor since I'm at work and have no manuals to refer. I'll have to bring in my laptop tomorrow.
I will say this and it might be worth considering. At your local auto parts store, you can buy a standard temp sensor that is gaged, with a dial, and connect it to your head temp sensor. This would allow you to actually see what your temp is and determine if the problem is actually in the sensor or the wiring.
I like my temp gage but the only problem is mounting. I've had to leave it inside the engine compartment because there is no real place to put it outside that will blend in.:cheers:
i tested the temp sender with a multi meter and to me it is buggered,,,,
my thinking is it should be normally open then close when hot making the switch earth to the head thus beeping as it does, ????
way too tired to think straight now, lol
Ill wait to hear back from ou guys, but my understanding would be that the ohm rating is just a electronic numerical figure that equates to a temperature, therefore if i get a 12v sender from the auto store that is rated at 95-100c regardless of what language you speak this temp setting could be transposed into a certain ohmage to which a lay person doesnt need to know as they want a specific temp range not a ohm spec.
I will go to a reputable store tomorrow and get an equivelant.
And again, any suggestions on the comp or what to do next?????
Another minor problem was that when sorting the primer set up i pulled the primer hose out from the carby, i have just pushed it back in but to me it doesnt seem safe to leave a fuel line in a precarious manner when jumpung wakes, if it were to fall off it could pump fuel into the hull and ignite, is there any special mounting of the said hoses??
my thinking is it should be normally open then close when hot making the switch earth to the head thus beeping as it does, ????
way too tired to think straight now, lol
Ill wait to hear back from ou guys, but my understanding would be that the ohm rating is just a electronic numerical figure that equates to a temperature, therefore if i get a 12v sender from the auto store that is rated at 95-100c regardless of what language you speak this temp setting could be transposed into a certain ohmage to which a lay person doesnt need to know as they want a specific temp range not a ohm spec.
I will go to a reputable store tomorrow and get an equivelant.
And again, any suggestions on the comp or what to do next?????
Another minor problem was that when sorting the primer set up i pulled the primer hose out from the carby, i have just pushed it back in but to me it doesnt seem safe to leave a fuel line in a precarious manner when jumpung wakes, if it were to fall off it could pump fuel into the hull and ignite, is there any special mounting of the said hoses??
Comp.....
No, your compression sounds good. At first, a little hesitant until your warmed up run. A compression around 135 says you still got a few good years of of it. I would not consider a rebuild until you lose torque to the point your get disappointed with performance or until your hitting about 110 psi. The shop manuals say anything over a 100 is good, as long as your within that 7 psi window between the two cylinders.
Temp sensor.... I don't normally ohm these because my switch is a simple, on or off. I'm not sure what motor you have (didn't check on your avatar before coming in to post) but unless it's the 4-TEC, your temp switch is the same. Take it out, take your volt meter, on continuity. It should show open. Then, get a pot of water on the stove boiling (212*F at sea level). Did the end of the sender in the hot water with a pair of pliers or something to hold with. I know it'll be a bit difficult but now, take your continuity meter and now, it should show it's closed, which should be alarming your beeper to signal you that your over heating.... So, I'm confused as to your ohms, etc. on this.
The easiest way I can explain my confusion is, for an ohm reading, you'll be looking at something that has a result to a difference in resistance. Like your fuel gage. In the baffle, when the float rises and falls, this will change the resistance on your output. If it were to stay at one level, the recorded resistance should not change. So, the resistance measures the variable between point A and B or in other applications, a resistance that is needed to control a component, like the measured resistance in your stator or in my sensors of the 4-TEC.......:cheers:
No, your compression sounds good. At first, a little hesitant until your warmed up run. A compression around 135 says you still got a few good years of of it. I would not consider a rebuild until you lose torque to the point your get disappointed with performance or until your hitting about 110 psi. The shop manuals say anything over a 100 is good, as long as your within that 7 psi window between the two cylinders.
Temp sensor.... I don't normally ohm these because my switch is a simple, on or off. I'm not sure what motor you have (didn't check on your avatar before coming in to post) but unless it's the 4-TEC, your temp switch is the same. Take it out, take your volt meter, on continuity. It should show open. Then, get a pot of water on the stove boiling (212*F at sea level). Did the end of the sender in the hot water with a pair of pliers or something to hold with. I know it'll be a bit difficult but now, take your continuity meter and now, it should show it's closed, which should be alarming your beeper to signal you that your over heating.... So, I'm confused as to your ohms, etc. on this.
The easiest way I can explain my confusion is, for an ohm reading, you'll be looking at something that has a result to a difference in resistance. Like your fuel gage. In the baffle, when the float rises and falls, this will change the resistance on your output. If it were to stay at one level, the recorded resistance should not change. So, the resistance measures the variable between point A and B or in other applications, a resistance that is needed to control a component, like the measured resistance in your stator or in my sensors of the 4-TEC.......:cheers:
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Well today i took the baby down to the boat ramp near home (salt water), to start her up and see if there were any prop issues under load.
I went down and put the ski in the water and started her up, beautiful, first crank, warmed it up a little then cruised around the little boat launching area at just above idle monitoring everything, i then returned and checked the bildge etc and all was good.
I took off for another lap at 1/4 throttle and was surprised at the zippyness of the girl, anyhow headed back to the ramp for another inspection and all was fine.
I thought id then give her a hand full so i took off at 3/4 throttle and "wow" it screamed off, i backed off and turned, then gave it a bit more, by now im loving it, i thought id go back to the ramp and give the others a go as now i know it all works fine etc, until....................
Motoring rather slowly into a turn the thing turned turtle on me???
Apart from scaring the sh*t out of me when it flipped my lanyard didn't pull off (brand new and tight), anyhow my ski is still running upside down, Ive got a throat full of water and im freezing, i think the ski ran for about 30 seconds as i tried to find and remove the lanyard, all this time i could hear glub, glub, glub, i finally shut her down and righted her the correct way and moved to the rear to try and mount her when i noticed the rear platform 6 inches under water, i thought this would be ok when i get on board and start motoring as the bilge will bail any water for me, anyhow after 6 unsuccessful attempts to climb aboard i thought sh*t whats happening as the current is dragging me out to sea,
I managed to pop the seat up and noticed water up to the top of the seat, the entire front compartment and engine bay were full of water.
luckily i had 50 meters of rope on-board (a roll of 6mm nylon rope, brand new for just in-case) this allowed me to swim in 50 meters and have a rope thrown to me to pull me in to shore.
We then had to walk the baby up the beach to the ramp then get the car and tow the ski out so as to drain the bilge.
I then pulled the plugs and cranked out the majority of the water, then applied wd to pots and cranked some more, again and again, but i could not get her going.
I drove it home and de-greased the entire ski, then rinsed, (to remove salt) then unplugged every connection and sprayed with water dispersant, lubricated all linkages ets, my vts unit was full of water, so i sprayed it full of water dispersant and re sealed, so everything was looking good until.....
Until i got to the ignition box, this seal was very average and therefore full of water, i thought it just a matter of drying out and applying some dispersant when i found the cable from the battery to the solenoid had arced and blew apart the connectors and the post to which it was fitted???
I did also notice a mounting bolt of the solenoid in the bottom of the ignition box itself after it was emptied.
I am thinking that water itself couldn't arc the cable and that it must have been the loose mounting bolt that at some stage has arced the power cable causing the blow out.
In a way this makes sense to me as it were just fitted 2 days ago by an apprentice workshop mech (from seadoo), but it must have arced on the way home as it was still cranking at the ramp??????
So for now i have filled pots with 2 stroke oil, removed all water, sprayed dispersant to every possible connection, i have fixed seals also, i am getting a new solenoid in the morning and re fitting it, the question is will it be ok, or is there anything else i can do at the minute until i get the solenoid and try to start it again???
The other issue is ho do i prevent so much water getting in???
I read in another thread about the black plastic part that sits under the seat?? i don't have one but if it operates the way i think i need it to prevent that amount of water getting in???
Any help welcomed, and sorry about the long post.
I went down and put the ski in the water and started her up, beautiful, first crank, warmed it up a little then cruised around the little boat launching area at just above idle monitoring everything, i then returned and checked the bildge etc and all was good.
I took off for another lap at 1/4 throttle and was surprised at the zippyness of the girl, anyhow headed back to the ramp for another inspection and all was fine.
I thought id then give her a hand full so i took off at 3/4 throttle and "wow" it screamed off, i backed off and turned, then gave it a bit more, by now im loving it, i thought id go back to the ramp and give the others a go as now i know it all works fine etc, until....................
Motoring rather slowly into a turn the thing turned turtle on me???
Apart from scaring the sh*t out of me when it flipped my lanyard didn't pull off (brand new and tight), anyhow my ski is still running upside down, Ive got a throat full of water and im freezing, i think the ski ran for about 30 seconds as i tried to find and remove the lanyard, all this time i could hear glub, glub, glub, i finally shut her down and righted her the correct way and moved to the rear to try and mount her when i noticed the rear platform 6 inches under water, i thought this would be ok when i get on board and start motoring as the bilge will bail any water for me, anyhow after 6 unsuccessful attempts to climb aboard i thought sh*t whats happening as the current is dragging me out to sea,
I managed to pop the seat up and noticed water up to the top of the seat, the entire front compartment and engine bay were full of water.
luckily i had 50 meters of rope on-board (a roll of 6mm nylon rope, brand new for just in-case) this allowed me to swim in 50 meters and have a rope thrown to me to pull me in to shore.
We then had to walk the baby up the beach to the ramp then get the car and tow the ski out so as to drain the bilge.
I then pulled the plugs and cranked out the majority of the water, then applied wd to pots and cranked some more, again and again, but i could not get her going.
I drove it home and de-greased the entire ski, then rinsed, (to remove salt) then unplugged every connection and sprayed with water dispersant, lubricated all linkages ets, my vts unit was full of water, so i sprayed it full of water dispersant and re sealed, so everything was looking good until.....
Until i got to the ignition box, this seal was very average and therefore full of water, i thought it just a matter of drying out and applying some dispersant when i found the cable from the battery to the solenoid had arced and blew apart the connectors and the post to which it was fitted???
I did also notice a mounting bolt of the solenoid in the bottom of the ignition box itself after it was emptied.
I am thinking that water itself couldn't arc the cable and that it must have been the loose mounting bolt that at some stage has arced the power cable causing the blow out.
In a way this makes sense to me as it were just fitted 2 days ago by an apprentice workshop mech (from seadoo), but it must have arced on the way home as it was still cranking at the ramp??????
So for now i have filled pots with 2 stroke oil, removed all water, sprayed dispersant to every possible connection, i have fixed seals also, i am getting a new solenoid in the morning and re fitting it, the question is will it be ok, or is there anything else i can do at the minute until i get the solenoid and try to start it again???
The other issue is ho do i prevent so much water getting in???
I read in another thread about the black plastic part that sits under the seat?? i don't have one but if it operates the way i think i need it to prevent that amount of water getting in???
Any help welcomed, and sorry about the long post.
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well today i finally got another relay and continued cranking, ive still got milky water cranking out, but im not sure if thats all the wd im spraying in the pots for lube??
Anyhow i tried to crank with the plugs in and blurghhh,,,, not enough cranking amps left in the battery to crank it over,
So ive got the battery on charge and will continue efforts in the morning however im starting to get a little worried of a seizure if i dont get it running and flushed ASAP.
Once the battery is charged should i try anything else, ie:- carby???
Or just prime and throttle with fresh battery and plugs??
Or should i leave it for a day or 2 to dry out? (i think not)
Hopefully somebody can reply as im feeling a little up the creek without a paddle..................
thanks
Anyhow i tried to crank with the plugs in and blurghhh,,,, not enough cranking amps left in the battery to crank it over,
So ive got the battery on charge and will continue efforts in the morning however im starting to get a little worried of a seizure if i dont get it running and flushed ASAP.
Once the battery is charged should i try anything else, ie:- carby???
Or just prime and throttle with fresh battery and plugs??
Or should i leave it for a day or 2 to dry out? (i think not)
Hopefully somebody can reply as im feeling a little up the creek without a paddle..................
thanks
Keep going !!!!!!!
You've got to keep working on it. Every day that you let go by, the more likely you'll end up with pitted bearings.
At the end of the day, if you don't get it running, spray more WD in it.
Use about a capful of Isopropyl Alcohol in each cylinder. Alcohol absorbs water. You can use this to help you get it started.
Most people just pull the plugs to blow the water; not good enough. You need the released gases of the compression stroke to blow the contaminated water out the back. So, spend some time turning it over with the plugs in and out.
Use the alcohol. Don't use a lot of oil, or any at all till you get it to hit a lick.
Do not use your reserve right now. The "on" part of fuel baffle actually grabs fuel higher from the bottom of the tank, therefore, if you've got water in the tank, you won't get it in the engine.
You have got to get this engine started and running to dry up the water.
I"ve had to do this and with patience and consistancy, you'll get it fired. But, if you do not and it's going to sit for a few days, pour a lot of oil in it. Enough to cover the crankshaft from the bottom coming up..........
You've got to keep working on it. Every day that you let go by, the more likely you'll end up with pitted bearings.
At the end of the day, if you don't get it running, spray more WD in it.
Use about a capful of Isopropyl Alcohol in each cylinder. Alcohol absorbs water. You can use this to help you get it started.
Most people just pull the plugs to blow the water; not good enough. You need the released gases of the compression stroke to blow the contaminated water out the back. So, spend some time turning it over with the plugs in and out.
Use the alcohol. Don't use a lot of oil, or any at all till you get it to hit a lick.
Do not use your reserve right now. The "on" part of fuel baffle actually grabs fuel higher from the bottom of the tank, therefore, if you've got water in the tank, you won't get it in the engine.
You have got to get this engine started and running to dry up the water.
I"ve had to do this and with patience and consistancy, you'll get it fired. But, if you do not and it's going to sit for a few days, pour a lot of oil in it. Enough to cover the crankshaft from the bottom coming up..........
well i thought id update this thread as ive been conversing with seadoosnipe via pm.
I finally got all the water out, after checking if i had water in the fuel and oil tanks i shut off supply from them and kept cranking the motor, i put fuel in the cylenders and cargs etc to sit over night, then continued cranking in the mornings,
At the end of the day the ski took me 4 days to get started, however it was never left dry for more than a couple of hours, i would crank straight 2stroke oil or gas through the engine every time i was cranking or fill the cylenders and carbs over night as ssaid so as i wouldnt have any salt water sitting in the engine starting to corode the internals.
I have it started now and it runs fine, i have done all the checks i need to and all looks good,
I now have to sort out why i took on water.
Does anyone have any ideas???
The carbon seal set up seems to look ok, so im wondering what else i can do to find a leek, i will fill the hull with fresh water to see if i have any leeks, i guess.
My thoughts are that it can only be the through hull seal, carbon ring, or an exhaust hose inside the bay.
Any other suggestionns greatly appreciated.
When running with the hose i have no exhaust leaks etc, so i am thinking the carbon seal, but it looks ok, does anyone have any pics or any links to a thread in detail about the carbon set up?
i have 2 weeks to get it sorted and am thinking if i pull the seal out ill rebuild the pump too, wear ring etc........
cheers, info on a pump build would be good too.
I finally got all the water out, after checking if i had water in the fuel and oil tanks i shut off supply from them and kept cranking the motor, i put fuel in the cylenders and cargs etc to sit over night, then continued cranking in the mornings,
At the end of the day the ski took me 4 days to get started, however it was never left dry for more than a couple of hours, i would crank straight 2stroke oil or gas through the engine every time i was cranking or fill the cylenders and carbs over night as ssaid so as i wouldnt have any salt water sitting in the engine starting to corode the internals.
I have it started now and it runs fine, i have done all the checks i need to and all looks good,
I now have to sort out why i took on water.
Does anyone have any ideas???
The carbon seal set up seems to look ok, so im wondering what else i can do to find a leek, i will fill the hull with fresh water to see if i have any leeks, i guess.
My thoughts are that it can only be the through hull seal, carbon ring, or an exhaust hose inside the bay.
Any other suggestionns greatly appreciated.
When running with the hose i have no exhaust leaks etc, so i am thinking the carbon seal, but it looks ok, does anyone have any pics or any links to a thread in detail about the carbon set up?
i have 2 weeks to get it sorted and am thinking if i pull the seal out ill rebuild the pump too, wear ring etc........
cheers, info on a pump build would be good too.
Water came in, because you flipped it, and it continued running. You can get some auto weather trim and double-up on what there...(back hatch lid, and front storage lid), but with it running, take it back to lake, and leave it on the trailer, tied up, and dunk it, then check for any leaks.
Thought the thread was referring to an XP...anyway no, should not flip, however, if the "weight" is exceeded, then i can see if topling over. Either way, keep it tied to trailer, back it in the water, with seat off, and let sit for a few, and see what you find.
Funny you mention "water", i'm having the same issue w/ a 98gsx-ltd. Did the tune-up thing, which customer said, thats all needed, then tested at lake, and the skis' motor was swimming, and it didnt get flipped. Taking to lake tomorrow, hope to find the answer.
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well hopefully we get some more input to this thread as it seems we are both experiencing the same thing.
Please let me know what you find.
It has been mentioned to me that it is most probably the carbon seal, to me the whole carbon seal arrangement seems very agricultural, i understand the principles of a mechanical seal arrangement but to use a rubber boot instead of a spring etc, and also the internal diameter of the carbon ring seems too big to locate on anything so it is therein relying on the boot for contact pressure and centrifugal force for correct positioning, so in reality whats to stop the carbon ring sitting out of true with the shaft?
What should the ideal tension be applied by the bellowed boot??
And is there a seal in the thru hull fitting also???
Should the carbon run lubricated or should it be dry??
Many questions, i would appreciate a detailed run down from one of the more experienced techs if possible before i pull it out.
I feel this thread could also help others, a rundown on the pump and carbon seal area in similar fashion to snipes 787 run down would be great, with pics and all,
I have done a few searches but i cant find much at all.
Please let me know what you find.
It has been mentioned to me that it is most probably the carbon seal, to me the whole carbon seal arrangement seems very agricultural, i understand the principles of a mechanical seal arrangement but to use a rubber boot instead of a spring etc, and also the internal diameter of the carbon ring seems too big to locate on anything so it is therein relying on the boot for contact pressure and centrifugal force for correct positioning, so in reality whats to stop the carbon ring sitting out of true with the shaft?
What should the ideal tension be applied by the bellowed boot??
And is there a seal in the thru hull fitting also???
Should the carbon run lubricated or should it be dry??
Many questions, i would appreciate a detailed run down from one of the more experienced techs if possible before i pull it out.
I feel this thread could also help others, a rundown on the pump and carbon seal area in similar fashion to snipes 787 run down would be great, with pics and all,
I have done a few searches but i cant find much at all.
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