96 GSX wont start after simple carb cleaning

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.

JMAN1

Member
Hello All,

Recently purchased a 96 GSX with a fresh engine rebuild. Everything had been gone through on it except for the carbs which had only been adjusted at the shop on a hose. Dont want to waste anyone's time so Im going to write it all out haha.

The ski started out of the water without even turning over for more than a second or two each time on and off the hose. Upon putting it in the water the first time it ran great at first and then started to bog or just flat quit upon deceleration (at the time I had no idea what this meant but after reading I believe that the pop off pressure/ low-end needle valve may not have been quite where they needed causing overly rich conditions after coming off high throttle; along with this the engine would only start back up if I gave it some gas right after it tried to start and then immediately jumping on the throttle once it did start to go as to get past the lower RPM range confirming; I believe that the mixture was too rich. Would you agree?) The above was the same case the next two times I took it out: started fine, ran awesome in the higher RPM ranges and had to be careful not to come down off the throttle too fast.

But as I stated above I had no idea what could be causing the issue at the time and simply guessed that maybe the idle wasn't quite adjusted properly or that maybe the valves weren't quite in sync. So I took the carbs off, leaving them linked together and fully assembled. I sprayed them down with carb cleaner in and out of the fuel line nipples and any ports that I could see but again; without actually taking them apart or unlinking them. I then reattached them and verified the valves moved in sync and came to rest in the exact same locations using a small mirror. I reattached all the fuel lines, but as a beginner at the time, I left the air intake/ spark arrestor assembly off and then put it on the hose and tried to start it DUHH. It did not start. Well I got online and figured out that leaving that off would change the mixture in the carbs and may have made it difficult to start... but I mean it didn't even try to start. So I put the air filter/ intake and tried again... Nothing only extremely brief bursts of the engine firing at a high RPM and then nothing for awhile and then again an extremely short burst and then nothing nothing nothing, playing with my throttle and choke to see if it made any difference; nothing. Then I checked all the things below and tried some of the things below as well; only more of the same half-second bursts of engine life with nothing following in between for random intervals of time.

Well to end the endeavor the ski stopped cranking over after the third night of trying these things and recharging the battery at night. Figured battery was dead; long story short, after taking so many steps I don't want to recount and reading everything I could possibly find on the internet about the subject I learned: I burned up my starter and have a new one on its way. In the meantime though I want to figure this problem out!!

So back to this issue with the ski not starting: Here is what I have eliminated from reading all the forums;
1. The fuel lines are not gray they have been replaced and I have verified clean filter and flow from the lines.
2. The fuel selector works in the ON position and I believe in the Res position as well as I had to use it the last time I went out Oops (the gas gauge doesn't work and I know I have to tear into it tank to get to the float/ circuit board to make it work, its either the magnet or the board, not my gauge which I have checked).
3. The carbs are moving fuel into the cylinders as I pulled the plugs and they were soaked after cranking for so long

Here is what Im looking to have answered:
1. The plugs were soaking but in a very dark substance as if maybe too much oil vs fuel. Or is that normal? I pulled the plugs after a lot of cranking so maybe it was just the engine was flooded?
2. I stupidly thought maybe it wasn't starting because the needles were out of adjustment and so I put them all back to factory settings without seeing where they were originally (kicking myself for that) and tried; same results as above. And now I don't know where they were before I started all this... But it's my understanding the ski should still run on the factory settings just not as well as it should as it will no longer be tuned.
3. I pulled the air intake off on a couple occasions and saw that there were little beads of fuel in the carbs but maybe I have it terribly rich somehow? Or maybe I have an air leak now that I didn't before and so Its terribly lean?
4. Even though I took nothing apart is it possible that when I blasted it with carb cleaner in the chambers and down the fuel hose connection nipples that I made something stick?
5. Did I possibly just make all the grime loosen up and plug some port that's making it either super rich or lean?
6. Should I just buy a carb rebuild kit?

Bonus question; I have a crack on the purple head pipe one of the round protrusions and it has a steady drip coming out of it while the hose is on and the cooling system indicator is shooting about a 4 foot long arc out the back of the ski hull. Is that crack an issue?

THANK YOU SO MUCH IF YOU HAVE READ ALL THIS and thank you greatly in advance if you choose to respond after reading all this. I really appreciate this community as I have learned an immense amount already reading past posts.

Regards,
Jasper
 
You absolutely have to rebuild the carbs with only genuine Mikuni parts and needle and seats.

You have to fix the exhaust leak by rewelding the Welch plugs.
 
Wow... way too long to read without more coffee. BUT, getting thought the first part...

1) No... it's probably not too rich. Generaly a rich mix will make the engine stumble, stutter, pop... and so on. Unless fuel is just pouring in... it won't kill the engine. When it shuts off... it's lean, and running out of fuel.

2) DO NOT continue to ride a 2-stroke powered PWC if the fuel isn't right. The fuel transports the oil into the engine. The fuel also cools the piston crowns. When the fuel is wrong... you are causing damage. You can kill a brand new engine in a very short time.

3) Spraying carb cleaner "Inside and out" doesn't do a dang thing. Mater of fact... you probably caused damage spraying it into the nipples without disassembling them. Carb cleaner will destroy a lot of plastics, and rubber parts. Since the carb is full of rubber... there's a chance you just made things worse.

So... do a proper cleaning, and we can then move forward with other issues.

FYI... you may not need any new parts. (other than base gaskets) Just take everything apart, and evaluate what you have. ANd, as above, if you do need new parts... only OEM seem to work right.
 
That's all great info and exactly what I intended to do! HOWEVER: the game has changed. Today I pulled the airbox off and found water, oil, fuel mix spilling out of the carbs.... uh oh... pulled the carbs off and water was literally pouring out of the crank case. So fearing the worst I turned the over by hand with the plugs out and it shot out water. So thank goodness engine wasn't seized. But that's probably why the starter couldn't turn the engine over. But I cranked it over once with the battery and started and shot oily water out all over everything. Maybe I shouldn't have done that.. well either way. This means that the hose some how pushed water into the engine. Any ideas now?
And what now? Thanks a ton!
I have attached a picture of the water and of the sludge that was in the carbs on the valves.
 

Attachments

  • 20180627_205648.jpg
    20180627_205648.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 41
  • 20180627_205424.jpg
    20180627_205424.jpg
    2.6 MB · Views: 45
Well, since wednesday if you didn't get it running immediately and run it hard the engine is already on it's deathbed from having water sitting in the crank.
 
we you running a hose before you got the engine started? If so you filled It up with water. has to be running before you turn on the water and if it stalls then you have to shut off the water asap.
 
1) Crank it clear.

2) Put the carbs back on, and get it to start. (no hose to cool it)

3) Run it for 20~30 seconds, and get some heat in to it to displace the water. Don't over heat it.

You need to get it dry, and oil back in to it. As Miki said... sitting with water has put a nail in that coffin. The longer you wait... the more nails go in.

Once it dry and oiled... then you can evaluate the carbs, and how the water got in there.
 
1) Crank it clear.

2) Put the carbs back on, and get it to start. (no hose to cool it)

3) Run it for 20~30 seconds, and get some heat in to it to displace the water. Don't over heat it.

You need to get it dry, and oil back in to it. As Miki said... sitting with water has put a nail in that coffin. The longer you wait... the more nails go in.

Once it dry and oiled... then you can evaluate the carbs, and how the water got in there.

To answer all of your questions: yes I was just running water through it the whole time while trying to adjust carbs and start it.. On one the jet skis I owned in the past this is what you did... so yeah this really really really sucks... Im traveling for work right now so tell me:
How screwed am since I left the water in the engine since last Friday and I am unable to return to it until this coming Monday night?? :cry:
 
I would tear the whole engine down and clean it really good . You may be able to save it before the rust sets in. It’s probably too late to save it by running it. IMHO
 
There are no skis made that you have the water on with the engine off, you will flood the engine with water, even the 4-stroke ones. It is always engine on, then water on, then water off, engine off.

You also don't need full hose pressure in the engine, just enough to make sure the pisser is flowing water.
 
Hey guys! Update: I got this thing fully rebuilt with a new engine and most expendable components in the ski replaced! Been on the water three times and it runs like a top! I've come a long ways from the super ignorant guy I was at the start of this adventure! Lol live and learn! I appreciate everyone's help and input along the way!
 
The forum is awesome. I’ve been working on sea doos for years and I still learn something new almost daily. There are so many different issues on different models. Make sure the fuel system is right on that new motor. Check plugs regularly by pulling the lanyard at wot in water. The plugs should be medium to dark brown. Lighter color and your lean. Darker and your running rich.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top