951 Smoke from pisser

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CreekerMike

CreekerMike

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Greeting and salutations everyone.
Ive ran into some more trouble with my Gtx Ltd' the ski has performed immaculate for about 30 hard hours but now im running into some trouble. The other day I went to a raft up on a sand bar. I cut the ski off when i got into shallow water and dragged it up on shore. After leaving i made sure to run it wide open to clear out any sand that may have got into the cooling system.
All was well until when i went out earlier, I noticed steam/smoke coming from the right pisser port while I was riding. Not sure whats going on here. Is a line clogged? Is my water reg not flowing fully? Or am i just crazy and this is all normal? Also wanna note that im missing maybe 100 or 200 rpm now.... Hoping someone can help me out here. Thanks!
 
Sounds like you have a plugged line. I would check the water regulator on the muffler since that will cause a loss of 200 rpm.

You should never have steam or smoke coming out of that hose when running, just water.

Sounds like you filled a cooling line with sand.

When beaching a ski especially in sand you should pull it into water by hand until it is floating, pump the back end op and down a bunch of times to wash the sand out of the pump and ride plate. Once you start it just let it idle so the sand can go out of the pump instead of forcing it into the cooling lines. It sounds like your immediate full throttle just forced the sand in the pump into the cooling lines.

Running on the hose can help backflush the sand out if the blockage isn't too bat. REMEMBER... It's ALWAYS..... SKI ON, THEN WATER ON, then WATER OFF...LAST SKI OFF. You never want the water on with the ski off or you will force water into the cylinders and crankcase.
 
mikidymac said:
Sounds like you have a plugged line. I would check the water regulator on the muffler since that will cause a loss of 200 rpm.

You should never have steam or smoke coming out of that hose when running, just water.

Sounds like you filled a cooling line with sand.

When beaching a ski especially in sand you should pull it into water by hand until it is floating, pump the back end op and down a bunch of times to wash the sand out of the pump and ride plate. Once you start it just let it idle so the sand can go out of the pump instead of forcing it into the cooling lines. It sounds like your immediate full throttle just forced the sand in the pump into the cooling lines.

Running on the hose can help backflush the sand out if the blockage isn't too bat. REMEMBER... It's ALWAYS..... SKI ON, THEN WATER ON, then WATER OFF...LAST SKI OFF. You never want the water on with the ski off or you will force water into the cylinders and crankcase.
Click to expand...
Thanks miki! Any idea wich lines i should check first? Presumably all the small black ones right? Maybe just disconect them and blow them out with a compressor? Also should i pull the regulator apart and make sure thats clear? And thanks for the advice! I didnt think to pump the ski to knock out sand after pushing off shore.
 
Against my usual advise... in your case I would run it on the hose to backflush the system.

I would also inspect the rear water regulator.
 
mikidymac said:
Against my usual advise... in your case I would run it on the hose to backflush the system.

I would also inspect the rear water regulator.
Click to expand...
Ive ran the ski on the hose on the hose since and water came out of both pissers but still smoke from the right pisser when running it in the water. Ill be pulling the regulator and blowing out the lines shortly.
 
Already found one issue. I have the slightest hunch this may be part of my issue...
 

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So i pulled the water rugulator apart and found something insteresting. The plastic sleeve that clips to the rubber boot was siezed up inside the regulator housing. When I went to my parts ski and pulled the regulator off, the sleeve came out freely with little to no resistance. What gives here? Im guessing this may have had something to do with my water starvation problem? Also havent found any sand yet.
 
So you have......
1. The outer body that screws to the waterbox.
2. The inner plastic sleeve.
3. The stainless pin and washer.
4. The rubber bellows.
5. The plastic top.
6. The outer cap.

The sleeve #2 should fit tight into the body #1 and take some pressure to come out. If it pulls out really easy and doesn't stick then it will leak water and cause a loss in rpm and possible overheating.

The only real fix for the loose sleeve is to replace the entire valve.

On mine I found a thin o-ring at Lowes that fits in the factory groove that allows it to seal and hold in place. I know others have tried this with success but I haven't run mine yet to verify.

It is not understood why the factory never installed an o-ring in this groove.
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Sounds like you discovered an issue. Pressure inside the waterbox pushes the bellows up normally as far as I know.
Click to expand...

Water pressure in the pump moves the piston up and cutting off the water, drying out the exhaust will give you more top end power. Not the exhaust pressure in the waterbox.
 
mikidymac said:
Water pressure in the pump moves the piston up and cutting off the water, drying out the exhaust will give you more top end power. Not the exhaust pressure in the waterbox.
Click to expand...
Oh okay, it wasn't clear where the bellows actuation pressure comes from. It looked like the metal pin changed water flow direction to the pipe based on bellows position so I assumed exhaust pressure actuated the bellows. Was working fine so I didn't disassemble the valve.
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Oh okay, it wasn't clear where the bellows actuation pressure comes from. It looked like the metal pin changed water flow direction to the pipe based on bellows position so I assumed exhaust pressure actuated the bellows. Was working fine so I didn't disassemble the valve.
Click to expand...

Yes, you are correct on everything except the water pressure closes it.
 
Are you sure your ski is a 1998 GTX because according to the manual you should only have 1 pisser and it is out the back.
 
mikidymac said:
Are you sure your ski is a 1998 GTX because according to the manual you should only have 1 pisser and it is out the back.
Click to expand...
Yes im sure its a 98' the last digits stamped on the hin are 98. And there are 2 pissers coming out the back. Right below the metal tow hoop. Both run to ports on the tune pipe. I should be out on the water tommorow so i guess well see if my issue is solved.
 

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Alright so im currently reporting from the west river aaaaaand. I still have smoke coming from the right pisser port. I popped the seat off and felt the small hoses coming off of the pipe. The hose closest to the manifold is cool to the touch, the hose on the side of the pipe is also cool, and the top hose (the one that leads to the right port) is hot very hot. The exhaust also feels way hotter than usual. Im guessing theres a clog somewhere in the pipe. I have a spare pipe ill be inspecting when I get home. Also im still missing my rpm. Any input or thoughts guys?
 
You have a blockage somewhere in the cooling system. My guess is it's somewhere in the head pipe.

My understanding is water comes from the cylinder into the exhaust manifold then out the two fittings with the red arrows to the pisser and the bottom of the pipe out the rear bulkhead/pump plate. This is basically a waterjactet that cools the hot, inner pipe.

The blue arrow from the muffler valve supplies water to the inside of the Hot inner pipe to change the sonic wave and giving more top and bottom end depending how much water it is injected while still injecting enough to not melt the rubber hoses after the pipe.

If you have smoke only coming from the top hose and not the others then it sounds like you might have a bad gasket or cracked pipe. That entire waterjacket should be full of water not exhaust.
Found this, might help.

COOLING DIAGRAM.jpg
 
Last edited:
mikidymac said:
You have a blockage somewhere in the cooling system. My guess is it's somewhere in the head pipe.

My understanding is water comes from the cylinder into the exhaust manifold then out the two fittings with the red arrows to the pisser and the bottom of the pipe out the rear bulkhead/pump plate. This is basically a waterjactet that cools the hot, inner pipe.

The blue arrow from the muffler valve supplies water to the inside of the Hot inner pipe to change the sonic wave and giving more top and bottom end depending how much water it is injected while still injecting enough to not melt the rubber hoses after the pipe.

If you have smoke only coming from the top hose and not the others then it sounds like you might have a bad gasket or cracked pipe. That entire waterjacket should be full of water not exhaust.
Found this, might help.

View attachment 42301
Click to expand...
mikidymac said:
You have a blockage somewhere in the cooling system. My guess is it's somewhere in the head pipe.

My understanding is water comes from the cylinder into the exhaust manifold then out the two fittings with the red arrows to the pisser and the bottom of the pipe out the rear bulkhead/pump plate. This is basically a waterjactet that cools the hot, inner pipe.

The blue arrow from the muffler valve supplies water to the inside of the Hot inner pipe to change the sonic wave and giving more top and bottom end depending how much water it is injected while still injecting enough to not melt the rubber hoses after the pipe.

If you have smoke only coming from the top hose and not the others then it sounds like you might have a bad gasket or cracked pipe. That entire waterjacket should be full of water not exhaust.
Found this, might help.

View attachment 42301
Click to expand...
Looks like ill be pulling the pipe off when i get home, not what i wanted to be doing on a Friday night but its gonna kill me if i dont fix this thing. Thanks for the diagram and the explanation miki. Ill report my findings with photos in a few hours. Wish me luck.
 
I should be around all evening so I'll keep an eye out for your progress.
I know they changed the cooling flow on the 1998 and newer silver engines from the original 1997.5 white engines.

In 2001 they changed the pipe to manifold design from a paper gasket to an o-ring because of all the leaks.
 
I know it is digging further than you want but if the pipe checks out you might have to check the cylinder ports that feed water into the manifold.
Service Manual.jpg
 
About to pull the pipe off and inspect. Gotta love the liberal use of Rtv
 

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Not sure what this sludge is about. So far the pipe and gasket appear to be in good condition. No visible water marking or anything to indicate a sign of a leak. Im gonna fire up the compressor and blow the pipe out. See if i get any sand or debris. Stay tuned.
 

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So ive closely inspected the pipe and blown out all the ports and so far nothing. Looks like im gonna pull the exhaust manifold and see what i can see
 

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