RESTO 95 XP Partial Restore (multi topics)

[Kal Brigger]

I'm sure there will be many questions about this ski in the upcoming weeks but I'll start with this one:

I'm about to replace the gray fuel lines with Napa 1/4" basic lines.
I noticed a few "clear" hoses running around also. Good idea to change these also or no big deal/don't worry about them?

One of the pics shows a "clear" hose broke off (circled). Not sure what it does. It's a little lower on the front of the block.

This and the '98 Kawasaki ZXi 1100 are my first watercraft of any kind.
I've rebuilt plenty of Yamaha Blaster motors so I'm decent with 2 stroke mechanics.

This XP will be for the wife so I want to make sure I get all the stuff done right the first time so our first time on the water doesn't end in disappointment.

Thanks ahead of time!!

 

[kevinz]

The clear hoses are the oil injection lines. Hopefully it wasn't run with that one broken like it is or the engine wasn't getting enough oil. Given that it broke, I would replace both of those; there should be two of them. I used Tygon line from a local lawnmower shop; it has a slight yellow tint to it but you can still see the oil flow through it. There are larger oil lines that go to and from the bottom of the engine and oil tank for the rotary valve oil bath and slightly smaller lines that go to the oil filter and then to the oil pump (I can see the filter in the third pic). I didn't replace those on my GTi; if they are still flexible and soft I'd leave them.

 

[Kal Brigger]

Wow! I'm glad I posted a pic- I'm still a total Noob with this ski.
So new oil lines are now added to the list.
Since we're on the topic of oil, you mentioned filter.
I just read through the operator's manual and it didn't say anything about changing the motor's oil or changing the filter.
Am I overlooking something again? Seems like that would be a normal maintenance thing to do.

So far my tune up list includes:
Change all fuel lines
Change all oil lines & filter
Grease everything- cables, drive shaft splines, etc.
Clean carbs inside and out & fuel selector thingy
Check impeller, wear ring
VTS doesn't work currently but will see if repair is needed after first water test
Clean/spray all electrical connections

Cosmetic list includes:
Replace foot pads, grips, handle bar cover, controls, splash guard
Paint all yellow components (if I could just figure out how to take hood off with all the electrical in the way...)
Clean & wax remaining
Replace seat cover (have seat cover, waiting on upholstery guy)
Possibly paint all purple items (rear handle, bumpers) Krylon Plastic Paint doesn't have a good purple.
Order hull numbers with fancy font and install

Items needing to find:
Coupler Hose
Hose pincher (might have one, will have to double check)

I'm going to update these lists as I go.
Feel free to give me any advice/tips/info/links/noobie jesting you feel is necessary.
Thanks!!!

 

[racerxxx]

Here is what you need to remove the hood

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Weat...ash=item35be75d308:g:nGgAAOSwWTRWzZy1&vxp=mtr

 

[Kal Brigger]

I spent several hours working on my lists today.
Removed the carbs and fuel selector, cleaning them inside and out.
I couldn't believe how much green gunk was in the selector. The reserve was totally blocked.
The carbs were pretty clean inside but gave them a once through anyway. Both little filters inside the carbs were completely clogged.
I'm glad my paranoia and OCD kept telling me to replace the fuel lines. If I didn't, that would make for a pretty crappy intro.
I bought a bunch of fuel line and other misc. hoses but didn't have enough clamps on hand (thought I did, that's what I get for not double checking before heading to the parts store). Will start the replacement tomorrow.
I'm trying to figure out how to clamp that tiny little hose (see picture above). I need all 4 connections done.
Parts store didn't have an inline oil filter so I'll put on old one until I can find a replacement.
I'm planning on changing fuel filter (suspended above oil tank) but parts store didn't have that either.
I'm going to use an inline filter closer to carbs also.
There is a missing hose on the top, front side of the oil tank. Not sure what to do about that.
I shone a flashlight on the wear ring and impeller, both look in good condition with barely any room at all between the two. I compared it with my '98 Kawi ZXi and it seems the same way- barely enough room to push a piece of paper through.

I took a ton of pictures throughout the process, just need to upload them. Stay tuned.

 

[racerxxx]

I spent several hours working on my lists today.
Removed the carbs and fuel selector, cleaning them inside and out.
I couldn't believe how much green gunk was in the selector. The reserve was totally blocked.
Get rid of that selector, it will come back to haunt you. Buy a new one it's like $25

The carbs were pretty clean inside but gave them a once through anyway. Both little filters inside the carbs were completely clogged.
Buy Genuine Mikuni rebuild kits and also new needle and seats and use the original springs in the carbs, I don't recommend cleaning those little filters. You cannot skimp on the fuel system on these skis.

I'm glad my paranoia and OCD kept telling me to replace the fuel lines. If I didn't, that would make for a pretty crappy intro.
I bought a bunch of fuel line and other misc. hoses but didn't have enough clamps on hand (thought I did, that's what I get for not double checking before heading to the parts store). Will start the replacement tomorrow.
I'm trying to figure out how to clamp that tiny little hose (see picture above). I need all 4 connections done.
Everyone uses small cable ties to secure the lines

Parts store didn't have an inline oil filter so I'll put on old one until I can find a replacement.
Buy a new one when you order your new fuel selector, again, not somehting I would deviate from the OEM style filter

I'm planning on changing fuel filter (suspended above oil tank) but parts store didn't have that either.
If you're referring to the fuel/water separator you can buy the entire assembly for $25, the filter and o-ring will cost you almost $20---not worth it

I'm going to use an inline filter closer to carbs also.
Guys use a Fram G2, I don't use any after the separator, I never have chit in my carbs

There is a missing hose on the top, front side of the oil tank. Not sure what to do about that.
Supposed to be missing

I shone a flashlight on the wear ring and impeller, both look in good condition with barely any room at all between the two. I compared it with my '98 Kawi ZXi and it seems the same way- barely enough room to push a piece of paper through.
Sounds correct

I took a ton of pictures throughout the process, just need to upload them. Stay tuned.

 

[Coastiejoe]

I will second Raxerxxx on replacing the Fuel Selector. Many dial due to the internal seals. It will allow air into the system forcing a Lean fuel situation. Which will destroy the engine. And,,, ONLY use OEM Gasket kits in the carbs. If your pop off is correct now, do NOT use the new springs. For some reason, most of the new springs simply are off and affect things in a negative way..

 

[Kal Brigger]

Ok, I'll get new selector (the rubber cylinder inside was pretty bad anyway), Mikuni rebuild kit, a new water separator and new oil filter.
You mentioned buying OEM. Does that mean ordering from SeaDoo or somewhere else?
I never thought of Zip Ties on those hoses. I guess since its low pressure, makes sense.

Thanks a bunch, both of you for the advice!!
I'm going to attempt to load some pics of the progress...


Here's the missing hose above the oil tank, behind the fuel lines.

This is all the gunk out of the reserve side and the interior of the hose.

 

[Coastiejoe]

I know that [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] stocks the OEM Gaskets. I'm sure other do, such as the dealer. OEM are critical as the diaphragms are poorly built and the carbs will never be right. Buying a new selector is a wise choice...

 

[Kal Brigger]

I sent him a PM.


Here's a pic of the carbs side by side. There are two spring loaded screws that are set at different levels (circled).
They're near the bottom and don't know what they do. I doubt the different positions matter but I've been proven wrong before.

 

[Kal Brigger]

Another missing item I just stumbled on is the air intake baffle that sits on top and back of engine compartment. Is this a necessary item?

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Needles should be 1 turn out on both if I remember it correctly, extra 1/8turn on the pto carb isn't a bad idea.

I have the air filter aka flame arrestor in stock, are you missing the entire assembly?

 

[Kal Brigger]

I have (what I believe) is the entire assembly that is attached above the carb which houses the filter.
What I'm asking about is the huge plastic thing that sits below the rear most of the seat, just in front of the rear handle.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Oh yeah I gotcha... Yes I have them in stock.

 

[Kal Brigger]

Is it necessary?

 

[Minnetonka4me]

I think its good to have in there. Its not something that absolutely needs to be there but its good to keep water away from your airbox.

 

[1983]

as racer said above, that is supposed to be like that, no hose goes on that nipple, its a one way vent check valve for oil tank. you are good to go

Ok, I'll get new selector (the rubber cylinder inside was pretty bad anyway), Mikuni rebuild kit, a new water separator and new oil filter.
You mentioned buying OEM. Does that mean ordering from SeaDoo or somewhere else?
I never thought of Zip Ties on those hoses. I guess since its low pressure, makes sense.

Thanks a bunch, both of you for the advice!!
I'm going to attempt to load some pics of the progress...

View attachment 34918
Here's the missing hose above the oil tank, behind the fuel lines.
View attachment 34919
This is all the gunk out of the reserve side and the interior of the hose.

 

[Kal Brigger]

Minnetonka and a few others have hooked me up with everything on my list so far.
I'll have to wait for this weekend to put it all back together.

Upholstery guy just dropped off my seats. I had to do all black on the JetSki. I bet that's going to be hot in the summer!

 

[Kal Brigger]

This might be a stupid question, but...

How can a person clean and wax the entire bottom of a ski?

Both the XP and the ZXi are sitting on a trailer at the moment.
The yellow bottom of the XP is pretty faded and the white top is chalky (the upper yellow parts are getting the heat gun treatment or if it's too bad, painted).

My first thought was hoisting it up by the front and back rings but could see that going south pretty quick.

 

[racerxxx]

I do it on a cart. Slide it far enough one way, then off the other end. Or lay it on a piece of carpet and tip it on it's side. Or do that on the trailer. But having a cart is clutch, I have a few.

 

[Kal Brigger]

Wow! Those look great!

I'm hoping to be able to revive the yellow on the bottom. Any tips to bring the color back? It looks almost white, it's so faded.

 

[racerxxx]

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?57274-Pictorial-On-how-to-buff-your-faded-nasty-hull

The yellow comes back quite easily. As you can see this is how it started. Sometimes it needs a wet sand but that is a total commitment.

 

[racerxxx]

I did not wet sand on my 96 at all. The HX was wet sanded on the deck and hood, the yellow hull was just a buff. I switched to 3M Super Duty rubbing compound. I also use a wool pad on a 7" buffer from Horor Freight. Breeze thru the projects in my Sig line, you can see the crap I start with. You can ask 10 guys how they buff and will get 10 answers. I use Jetskigoodies method and tweak it a tad just due to supplies near me, but I use the same principal basically.

 

[Kal Brigger]

That's what my hood looks like now.
It was almost completely white. I started to steel wool it and ran out of time after an hour.
Not fun while its still attached but didn't want to take the time unplugging all the wires.

The vents, fuel selector and gas cap have been steel wooled, cleaned and then heat gun. Turned out pretty nice.
The small piece on top of the hood (the easy piece to remove) was painted due to some fairly deep scratches so the big hood will also end up being painted to match.

 

[racerxxx]

I gave up on the heat gun trick, I use Wipe new....yes the as seen on TV stuff. Works great. But first I use Tonkas trick with using a blue scrubbie pad and soft scrub with bleach from the grocery store. The rinse really good with soap and water, let dry and wipe new once you have almost all the white hazing gone.