95 XP - newbie help needed - just bogs down

[stevexp2]

I'm looking for some ideas on getting a 'new to me' XP running (717cc dual carb). The Ski has been sat unused in AZ for 3 years with an empty gas tank.

I checked the oil, added 5 gallons of fresh gas and 2 new spark plugs and dropped some 50:1 mix into the cylinders before turning it over - after a couple of tries it fired up. Very smoky to begin with and then it cleared and ran fine of the hosepipe.

However, when I put it into the water, it would idle but as soon as I gave it some throttle it would die/bog. Pulled it out the lake and it ran fine again.

The ski has been well maintained previously - has very low hours and is in a very clean condition. I pulled the air cleaner and everything was spotlessly clean.

The only thing I noticed was that out of the water, the idle speed was only about 1500rpm - the manual says it should be 3000rpm out of water, 1500 in the water

Would the low idle speed cause the engine to die when I gave it throttle on the lake?

I will raise the idle speed tomorrow but what are the settings for low speed mixture and high speed mixture?

What else should I be checking?

Thanks!!

 

[LouDoo]

Hi, and welcome to the forum.

Sounds like you're in pretty good shape. Set the idle to about 3000rpm one the trailer, should be about 1500rpm or so in the lake. I actually like the idle about 1800rpm in the water, makes it easier to idle through the no wake zones, also less rattle.

After sitting for 3 years, you need to check all hoses, gas, and water. If you still have the grey tempo fuel lines they need to be replaced, fuel system cleaned, carbs. cleaned, etc. I'll post a link below with more info., be sure to check the links in this thread.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...el-Delivery-Problems-low-revs-bogging-surging

The problems you are having are typical for a ski sitting for 3 years, most likely fuel delivery problems. One other thing you could check is compression, 150 is perfect, 135 is O.K., 120 you'll need a top end rebuild.

Good luck, and have fun.

Lou

 

[stevexp2]

Many thanks

Yes, I was thinking it was fuel delivery and yes it has grey fuel lines so will replace them all today and strip the carbs etc and clean them.

Compression was about 140 on my tester (they all seem to vary a bit anyway) so I'm pretty happy mechanically.

Another quick question is regarding the lubrication of the PTO etc - I read in the service manual that there are grease points - are they under the rubber cover? And where do I drain and refill the oil for the drive train or is this something that is only needed on high hour skis?

The service manual wasn't very clear.

 

[LouDoo]

Sounds good. 140 psi is great, so the engine seems to be in good shape.

There is only one zerk fitting, at the rear of the engine there is a plastic cover, loosen the two wing nuts, remove the cover, you'll see the zerk fitting, takes waterproof synthetic grease, pump until the rubber boot just begins to bulge.

It's a 2 stroke so there is no drive train oil, the engine gets its lubrication from direct oil injection, and it's direct drive, no transmission.

When you replace the grey lines pay particular attention to the fuel selector valve, I just replaced mine. Also re: fuel line replacement, I use 1/4" cable ties instead of clamps, I thing they grip better, are easier to install, if you use cable ties, buy quality ties, I use Panduit brand from Graybar Electric.

Lou

 

[manolocross]

I think he might be talkin about the jet pump oil...definitely change it...look at some videos on you tube and some threads on here on how to do it ....its not hard at all.

 

[stevexp2]

Yes, I meant the jet pump oil

I pulled the carbs this morning and OMG - I see what you mean about the green slime - completely blocked the fuel pipes and I didn't even recognize the internal filters as they were solid with the stuff - it's a wonder it even ran at all.

I'm redoing everything with black fuel hose and yes, I also prefer zip ties but the secret is to use the hand tool and quality ties as you suggest. I just wish there was a quick and easy way to remove those factory crimps

 

[stevexp2]

OK, everything is stitched back together except for the filter box so I can fine tune. I set the Low Speed adjusters to 1 3/4 turns out, high speeds have a cap on them which only allows 1/4 turn so they are fully clockwise (closed). Running on the hose after a few seconds to prime she started and really wanted to rev - huge improvement

I then adjusted the idle stop to get to 3000 rpm but after a few seconds she reduced back to 1500 - if I screwed the idle stop in another 1/4 turn she revved to 4000 and when I backed it off 1/4 turn she idled at 3000 for a few seconds and then dropped back to 1500 again

Is that what they call 'loading' up - too much fuel at idle speed and do I simply close up the low speed adjusters a touch until it goes away?

I guess next step is to get her on the lake for some final tuning but I really don't want her running too lean.