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787 Oil injection Lines

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JoeStrange

JoeStrange

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I have new oil injection hoses at home waiting to go on. I was wondering if there was any trick to getting the old ones off?

I don't see a clamp or anything on the two hoses. So how is it staying on when I pull on it?
 
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I'm guessing the lines on your ski are not original. The original hoses were black probably painted white, and had metal crimps holding them on. When you replace them, use 3/32" tygon gas line and use small cable ties.

Lou
 
Lou,
The oil injection lines in both of my skis are both painted white. Thats why I'm swapping them out, Before something bad happens.

I think the metal crimps are painted as well because I don't see anything at the base of the hoses. How should I go about getting them off? Because I don't want to damage the pump or anything else. I was just going to wrap a pair of pliers around it and wiggle it back and forth until it comes off. Or you think I should cut them off?
 
I really don't recall that the metal crimps were an issue, I can't remember exactly how to remove them, I think I just squeezed the crimp and they expanded enough to remove the hose. Or possibly just cut them with a pair of wire cutters.

Maybe someone else has some input?

Lou
 
the type on mine there was nothing to squeeze and I was afraid to damage the nipple. With the hooked pick (above post) I pulled it right off
 
LouDoo said:
I'm beginning to think that Harbor Freight is the unofficial tool supplier for the SeaDoo Forum, I know that they already are the official tool supplier for us Appalachian Technicians. Maybe one of the admin. guys should contact them about being a sponsor.Lou
Click to expand...

Great idea Lou. and a discount for all SDF members too :)
 
I have a harbor freight I pass everyday on my way to and from work.

So I did it, I changed the lines on one of my skis and let me say, THAT was a pain in the ass.

First off, Thanks for the replies. I had searched here and there for months on how people were changing these lines and I would always wind up finding massive amounts of threads about blocking the oil injection pump off.

This was not an easy job. Getting the old lines off was real easy. I scraped the paint off so I could see the clamp, I grabbed it with a pair of needle nose and wiggled it and those things pop right off. I was a little tricky getting the injector hose off that sits under and behind the carbs though.

I had the air box out of the ski when I removed the hoses. I quickly realized I was going to have to detach the carbs from the motor to get my new hose on that sneaky injector that sits under them. Which sucked because I was not going to pull the carbs this year as they were just rebuilt last year. Do you guys think its ok that I just bolt the carbs back up without replacing the gaskets between the carbs and the motor?

That new hose is stiff and tight and at first you almost think its the wrong size. It does not go on those injectors easy when you cant push and wiggle in a straight line because your fingers will not fit in there like that. A real pain, and I thought it was going to be relatively easy. Go figure!

One down, one to go and then I move onto impellers and wear rings.

Unfortunately Seadoobuddy you have to remove the carbs for this job and its because of that sneaky injector. I was swearing at whoever decided to put that injector nipple facing inward where its impossible to service without removing the carbs. If they would have just faced the nipple outward and use a little bit more hose you could do this job without removing the carbs.
 
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Joe,

You are correct about removing the carbs., and it's even more important on a 720. I know it's too late now, but I have always removed the carbs. to change the oil lines, it's also a lot easier to see if the air is purged from the lines with the carbs. off.

On most ski's you don't even have to remove the carb. cables, just remove the four large bolts and lay the carbs. in the hull.

If the carb. gaskets didn't tear or delaminate they should be fine to re-use.

Lou
 
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Seadoobuddy said:
What is the easiest way to get the bottom of motor, oil line off and replaced?
Click to expand...


SDB, you're probably going to need to remove the front motor mount and raise the motor up as far as you can to get access to that line. The return line you are talking about doesn't need to be replaced often and unless yours is leaking I would just leave it alone and change it when you remove the engine.

Lou
 
Anybody know if you can get this hose locally? Like from a hardware store? or hobby shop?

When I ordered it they sent me a small roll, obviously leaving no room for error because after doing 3 hoses I had to trim a combined half inch off of those three when I would split the end trying to get it on. So when I come to the forth hose, Its to short. I HATE crap like this. The dealer will charge you an arm and a leg and make you wait a week for it then when you finally get it, its barely enough or not enough at all.

To be honest I' don't think there was enough there in the first place.
 
Thank you Jake! Im starting to find out that most of these parts can be found at local hardware stores!

I go to the dealer for those 2 small rubber O rings that go in between the venturi and jet pump (Same as the RAVE O ring I believe) and they want $5 a piece! I go to Ace, 29 cents. I will actively talk bad about my local dealers from here on out, No mercy. It sucks because I would rather spend my hard earned money on all my parts locally, but I can't!

Its highway robbery.
 
yea, I know what ya mean about the crazy price of a friggin o-ring. I asked Doc last year about finding rave valve o-rings at the hardware store. He said it is a metric size and is silicone.
 
So no matter how many times I bleed the oil lines air bubbles seem to mysteriously re appear after riding. I have witnessed this sense I took it out the first time. How can air continually get into the oil injection pump?
 
You use zip ties? Air in the small lines?

getting the same issue, believe it has to do with getting the zip ties tight enough. Try a zip tie gun, and add an extra zip tie. See if that helps.
 
Yup used zip ties, small zip ties. Yes the small oil injection lines, the air bubbles are coming from the pump side working their way toward the injectors. I cranked the zip ties as tight as I could with a pair of needle nose pliers, they seemed plenty tight but I agree thats a suspect place for air to be entering the lines.

Just found out its doing it on my other ski as well, so both are getting air in the lines and both have zip ties on them. It might be time to order the OEM clamps.

The real crazy part is I used OEM hose, and it was such a small diameter compared to the nipples and they were an extremely tight fit. So tight in fact that I had blisters on my thumb and index finger after working them onto the nipples for like 30 mins. It was a nightmare because it was such a tight fit. When I was done I knew they didn't need a zip tie because even pressurized there was no way they were coming off.
 
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huh.. I didn't use oem, used tygon fuel lines 1/8th (as I read in other posts) and they went on no problem. I got my brothers tight enough on the pump side it seems, as they don't have air bubbles. Mine is having a bit of issues, so bought a $5 zip tie gun and gonna try that this weekend, or next is oem clamps.

Have you tried while idling, holding the oil pump wide open? I do this and there is no air bubbles and I can watch full oil moving through the lines, when I stop the engine I can watch the bubbles come up.
 
Yup holding the pump wide open while having the bleed screw loose is suppose to be the way you bleed the air out.

I have never seen the air bubbles come into the line after shut down, I will put both the skis on the hose and bleed all the air out until its just straight oil moving through the lines and I'll shut them both down and look again and the lines are filled with oil, no bubbles.

I'll take them out and romp around for a few hours, come home and get all the remaining water and debris out of the hull and I always notice the bubbles are back. I know what hose your using I have a little bit of it here and yes that hose is EASY to put on compared to OEM.

OEM was unbelievely hard to get on but those hoses are unbelievably on that pump and injectors and thats what I liked about the OEM hose, I know those suckers are not coming off there. I have asked around here in different threads for a week or two now and your the first person to respond to it so I'm assuming this is not a common problem.
 
to get the main line from the oil tank to the pump air free you use the bleeder screw, then tighten it, run the engine and hold the pump wide open to bleed the small lines. The bleeder screw is supposed to be closed to fill the lines to the carbs.

after they are full shut it down and watch. It could also be a check valve which I have read other people having problems with in their oil pumps.

I just know mine is zip tie problem. Cut and put new ones on it is better or worse pending how tight I got it. I might have to do oem clamp if this gun doesn't work.
 
Ahh I see. Well I'm gonna have to try just opening the pump without the bleed screw tomorrow. I don't feel any surges or cutouts while I'm riding, their both running great. So every time I ride them I think its fixed and then low and behold.
 
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