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787 dieing after we take off

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factory81

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About 30 hours this year now. I take the boat out, after I get out of the channel I take off. I had drove it by than an hour or so. I take off and then we plane, and 20 seconds....30 seconds later. Engine shuts off.

Start it back up.....we get going, get the rpms past say 5 or 6,000. We die again.

We can start the engine right back up. No problems. Driving at 2,000-3,000rpm...no problem. Even 4,000rpm

I drop my friends off, go home, get out of the no wake zone. Crank it back up again, and she dies on me, this time not starting back up again, but turning over.

My repair guy says don't start it anymore, the seadoo has an error code that can be read right now, and if I start it back up it will clear it.

Hes thinking electronic or fuel delivery. I am thinking these boats are a little pain in the butt. I am going to clean the fuel filter, and replace the spark plugs. Then see what my mechanic says tomorrow.

In the mean time, do any of you guys have any ideas?
 
THis is from customkarls thread: do this and reply-
DOnt forget to clean out the internal carb filters as well.***
Here is all the info on the DESS codes. It is possiable that you are getting a mixed code.
DESS Codes/ Beeps
2 Short beeps …the engine is ready to start
1 Long beep …no communication to MPEM
4 Short beeps… (on Jet Boats) Shifter is in gear
8 Short beeps…defective MPEM
1 Continual beep…engine over heating


Advanced Self- Diagnostic Mode

(take off the fob from the DESS)
By pushing the start/stop button 5 times, you’re putting the DESS in advanced diagnostics. When you have successfully done this, you'll hear 1 short, 1 long beep then, put on the lanyard cap. The engines should start if everything is ok.

2 Short beeps means MPEM can’t read the lanyard cap or it has bad magnet. It could be a bad wire connection at the Lanyard switch.
2 Long beeps means wrong lanyard or bad connection of DESS connection
3 beeps signal the wiring harness of the DESS switch are grounded, or a short circuit somewhere.

You may have a bad connection in your wiring harness, from corrosion. Go through your electrical systems connectors and check for corrosion. Clean them with some contact cleaner, then die-electric grease.

To listen to the codes again start from the beginning.

Let me know how you make out, and if this helps.

Karl
___________
 
kcr357 said:
THis is from customkarls thread: do this and reply-
DOnt forget to clean out the internal carb filters as well.***
Here is all the info on the DESS codes. It is possiable that you are getting a mixed code.
DESS Codes/ Beeps
2 Short beeps …the engine is ready to start
1 Long beep …no communication to MPEM
4 Short beeps… (on Jet Boats) Shifter is in gear
8 Short beeps…defective MPEM
1 Continual beep…engine over heating


Advanced Self- Diagnostic Mode

(take off the fob from the DESS)
By pushing the start/stop button 5 times, you’re putting the DESS in advanced diagnostics. When you have successfully done this, you'll hear 1 short, 1 long beep then, put on the lanyard cap. The engines should start if everything is ok.

2 Short beeps means MPEM can’t read the lanyard cap or it has bad magnet. It could be a bad wire connection at the Lanyard switch.
2 Long beeps means wrong lanyard or bad connection of DESS connection
3 beeps signal the wiring harness of the DESS switch are grounded, or a short circuit somewhere.

You may have a bad connection in your wiring harness, from corrosion. Go through your electrical systems connectors and check for corrosion. Clean them with some contact cleaner, then die-electric grease.

To listen to the codes again start from the beginning.

Let me know how you make out, and if this helps.

Karl
___________
Click to expand...


This is good info for all of us to print out and keep on the boat for those days the boat doesnt wanna be friendly.
 
I am a complete idiot. I filled up the oil tank earlier this year. While looking inside the engine bay I notice said oil is gone. I look at the lines....air in the lines........sweet.

Now we have to tear the engine out, bleed the lines, fill up the oil tank, then see if I stripped this rotary valve shaft.

This thing....
http://www.parkeryamaha.com/ProductImages/pwc4/420935735.jpg

Most likely mine is stripped all the hell, and we have to see if SBT allows us to even take a look at that, or if we have to send it back to them. Supposedly this is warrantied by SBT......as long as I didn't blow a casing.

Guy tried to turn it over and said it didn't good for the rotary valve shaft most likely and that they are the first to go with no oil.
 
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no oil..i'd do compression test. And if the brass gear IS stripped, dont just replace it, but replace thee entire assy. You just blow out another one, if you dont.
 
SBT doesn't allow end users to open up the 787 and replace components such as the rotary valve shaft.

You must send the engine back to them for them to repair it (for free they claim).

I learned this today. They allow mechs to play with electrical, fuel pump, pto flywheel, and not a whole lot else.
 
I ran out of oil......ran the oil tank almost dry.

I premixed oil with my gasoline on the first probably 5-6 tanks of gasoline after this new 787 was put in last year.
 
Hey factory , you must have rode alot last year with that much gas , well hopefully your still within the warranty and get another one in there yet this season,My mech said they are the Sh** and they have covered things like this so I think you'll be ok unless you cracked a case and have to have it welded by them. Hows things lookin so far ? are ya waitin on Greg or SBT?
 
Greg said the engine will have to go to SBT. As we all suspect the rotary valve shaft and that brass toothed thing is 99.9% shot, and will be replaced by SBT under their fault free warranty. Shipping out tomorrow.

Damages cost wise: $300-400 for engine removal, re installation, and bleeding the oil lines. There will be $50-60 for S/H to SBT.

Let us pray that SBT will be repairing my engine for free. I paid an extra premium for a warranty, and this is a very inexpensive fix (we believe), so I hope they will fix it.

If this is all the costs are for this, I will be very pleased myself.

I take my boat out at least 1-2x a week though :)
 
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Ya , I talked to my mech about your engine and he seems to think they will fix for free as he's had some customers that that has happened to also.
 
Ya , expensive lesson learned and I guarantee you'll keep an eye on your oil level , probably would'nt hurt to carry a spare gallon of oil with you at all times.
 
Well I don't know about traveling around with an extra quart of oil. Just check the oil before I launch. I didn't realize they did go through oil that often though. We started this year with 3/4th a tank of oil........it just so happened it went through the oil way faster than I thought it would have.

I would say as Seadoo owners we would benefit most from having an extra set of spark plugs, and a wrench to change them onboard at all times. Although I have yet to have a pair go foul on me while in the water.

I had a cavitation problem, fixing that made a world of difference last year, then the engine goes out on me. Once I got the new engine I love my Seadoo. Sure I would love a 18 or 23 foot Seadoo....or Malibu boat.

I am a little discouraged by the repairs, but we also drive the hell out of our boats. Everything we do in our boats, I/O boats wish they could do.
 
I got 20 minutes of ride after I just bought the boat . so this sucks for me having to dump another engine in this thing from the gate .
Hopeing this will do it and can enjoy the rest of the season and years to come. Summer is a wastin.
Ya really just keep a eye on that oil res and you'll be fine.
 
WaveShredder9110 said:
I got 20 minutes of ride after I just bought the boat . so this sucks for me having to dump another engine in this thing from the gate .
Hopeing this will do it and can enjoy the rest of the season and years to come. Summer is a wastin.
Ya really just keep a eye on that oil res and you'll be fine.
Click to expand...

I bought my boat for $3,000 last year. Took it home. It worked fine when we took it out. But we load it up with 4 people and what not, launch her. Cavitation problems, as well as throttle adjustment / idle rpm was off. Needed the raves cleaned, fuel filter cleaned, spark plugs cleaned, wear ring and seals. So that was $500+ for repairs there alone to reseal all of that. This is within owning the boat of a month.

Then I am out with a boat hauling around with no cavitation. 4 people on the boat, doing what a Seadoo is made to do, and we end up seizing the motor, cracking a rod, blew the casings. Cost me something like $2500 with labor when all is said and done for a new engine + $900 charge for the casings.

The boats kick butt, but it seems when you buy things that are 13 years old you should be careful. If I had known all of this I would have haggled with the price even more.
 
Greg @ Sands........boy I tell yah!

Greg needs a box to ship the engine to SBT. Greg does not have said box. Greg calls me today asking me to call SBT and order that box. $25 for the box, $13 something for S/H.

My ski has been dead now for 8 days. If I knew I had to order a special box that fits these 787 engines I would have ordered it last Monday or Tuesday (or even Wednesday when I got the diagnosis), and it would have been here by now.

So now we play the waiting game. 2-3 business days for SBT to send the box to us. Than send the engine to them, 2 day turn around time for a new engine, 2-3 business days for SBT to us. Another couple days for Greg to get it together.

I just want to be like WTF?!?!? I could have had that box here for us by now and we could have had it back on the water.

I find this all frustrating because boating in general seems to be like skiing for me. Expensive and who knows how long your season will last.

I was hoping to have it in shortly after the 4th. Well I better make that well after the 4th.

On a side note the guy from SBT said I really should consider putting the engine in myself. He said the only thing difficult is the timing with the drive shaft, and after you do that once, it's like riding a bike.


Oh well....
 
Sounds like a pain in the a$$ to me , I took mine to Flytech motorsports in Nunica and this guy is awesome , He called me today and wants me to weld some freeze plugs up in a Kawasaki head pipe and he pulled my motor and said there's no cracks in the case , thank god.
But anywho , I read some place where you can ship those motors to places in a rubbermaid containers with styrofoam peanuts all around then drill holes in the side and top of lid and zip tie it closed then ship it out insured.
A place up in Alpena ,MI does it this way but not sure if SBT will allow this.
Yes as far as doing it yourself , I've got real educated on the stuff within the last month and found out its way cheaper to do the work yourself ,but the reason I took it to a pro was I was worried about the SBT warranty if they still would let a un-qualified individual to do the work.
I feel now I'm at least semi-qualified as I use to rebuild motors on my Kawasaki 250 , but all your doing is switching motors and not a rebuild.
SBT has all of the instructions on how to pull and reinstall.
Don't get me wrong as Greg is a excellent mech but seems your losing time on the BS having to deal with this.
Can't understand why you could not just crate it up or something , but maybe SBT's way of lockin ya in.
 
Ya, as long as its packed tight and insured , I can't see what that would hurt.
I know the feelin gettin five and dimed on stuff and the seasons a wastin.
But ya , "if" you have to pull it again (heavin forbid) I would do it yourself.
I would call sbt and see if you can do the rubbermaid box and see what they say.(if it ain't too late)
 
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