717 engine sat3mo w/saltwater...

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i have a 1997 speedster, it was towed in (after running out of gas at the hands of a friend) without pinching off the the water cooling intake lines(?) as i was told u have to do. or the engines somehow got salt water in them.:( it was never flushed and has sat for approx 3 1/2 months. now i cant turn either engine over with a pipe wrench! do these engines counter rotate? i think so. ive been spraying pb blaster in ther cylinders for the last 5days. should i take the heads off of them and tap on the pistons? the plugs were all rusty. anyone had any luck un seizing a 717? should i pull them out and take em appart? any help would be greatly appreciated! thanx
Even if you get it cracked loose you are likely to have frozen rings , At a minimum you would have to rebuild the top end

The best product I can think to use is PB Blaster , We started to use it 30 years ago to break loose the tread bolts that held the M60A2 tank treads togeather . Some of the cans still have the NSN's on them

I would pull the spark plugs and spray about a quarter of a can in each hole , wait a day then spray a little more each day until the can is empty

Note , You will have to change the oil in the case after this later

Then get the largest Vicegrip locking pliers you can find and try rocking it back and forth

It might brake loose ,

A large pipe wrench will get a better grip but it will only pill one way and could brake the PTO loose or even the motor mounts so stick with the Vicegrips

If you brake it loose , work it till it turns freely , Spray some more PB Blaster and do a compression check ,
If the compression is not what it should be , You will have to pull the jugs:coolgleam::ack:
There is no oil in the crankcase to change.

You may have to completely rebuild both engines as the crankshaft bearings will most likely rusted up.

had a similar one once a 717 ski was seized up due to sitting with water in cyls
used a full can of wd40 half down each plug hole
left overnight then a big pipe wrench and a wood mallet tap to shock it free don't beat it into submission just sharp shocks

Granted it may not have been 3 months with water in but it did free it up

do not go backwards as you may loosen the Flywheel it is only threaded onto the crank shaft and locktited
Usually towing the seadoo over 15mph, will force water into the engine via the exhaust system if you don't pinch off the cooling lines from the jet pump. If the engine is that seized up, chances are you will have to tear it down and do a rebuild. If the Bottom End is rusted from water inside than it might be cheaper to get a re-conditioned engine from SBT. If it is just a mild seizure you should be able to get parts from our "Parts" link and rebuild it yourself. You could also get a manual from the seadoo forum library if you join as a premium member.
If it doesn't loosen up with a large pipe wrench on the PTO going counter clockwise, I would pull the heads and see what you can salvage. You might get lucky and only have water in one cylinder or just the rings are seized up on the piston. If you use to much force the engine might end up being a paper weight. Take your time using mild force, being careful not to cause more damage. If you are still having problems, give us a shout and we give you more advise and get you pointed in the right direction.

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thanks, got 1 going...

Thank u for ur advice! I Used an entire can of PB and a can of "strike hold." the Portside engine freed up relatively easily, using a pipe wrench and a long 3/8" extension tapping on the piston through the plug hole. I've got that one running, still a little smokey, but running never the less. The other engine did not fare so well. I could not get it free, even with the help of a few of my friends, 1 being an auto mechanic, who has freed several auto engines. no matter what we did, it whould not budge.
We ended up getting it apart in the boat, pulling the top half of the engine off the pistons. guess we broke one of the piston skirts, oops. Turns out the wrist pins are frozen. which would not allow the crank to make a full revolution. that is after i freed up the crank, it did not want to move very well. the entire crank case is filled with water, and.... Sand. sand was allover the crank and packed into the water passages in the block. :(
yeah, Sportster of mine, when bought, motors were injested w/ water, been sit'n since 08/08. Kept crank'n, got all out, and fed gas down carbs. Now both kick butt, been rip'n it since. Got lucky, I guess...

If water got forced into my engines (by way of the exhaust) from towing, and the 1 I took apart has water in the crankcase, then would the engine that I got running also have water in the crankcase, or would it have been expelled from there when i got it running??? :confused:
It being a 2 stroke, all the water got expelled when it fired up. I would spray some wd 40 in it till you use it again.


also, my beeper stopped working all of the sudden. now u can just hear a faint clicking. Do you know what could be wrong? and how might i go about fixing it?
If the beeper is bad you can get a cheap replacement at rdio shack or order one from out "parts" link you need it to let you know it is ready to fire up and if it over heats.

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Is it the round thing screwed in underneath the console? Pretty much, i messed with the boat one day,it was beeping, then when i messed with it a couple days later it wasnt beeping, but just a faint clicking. I did not touch any wires or electronics, besides putting jumper cables on the battery(which is a regular 12volt car batt) do they just go bad like that? guess it couldn't cost very much. Thank you very much for your help.
It being a 2 stroke, all the water got expelled when it fired up. I would spray some wd 40 in it till you use it again.


Ok, i was a lil scared, because i dont think the crank is supposed to be sloshing around in water, doesnt the fuel/air/oil mixture pass thru there and help lube the crank? and on 1 eng. the crank was halfway under water, and i figured that it was like that in the other 1, but i didnt know if it would be expelled when i got it fired up. thanks:)
The first sign of it going bad is it will click now and then. Then stop working. Sometimes you cab tap it and it will work again.

in a 2 stroke the fuel /oil mixture passes into the bottom of the engine and is fired. It lubes the crank with the oil in the premixed fuel. Once it runs it will either not start or when it fires up it has new fresh fuel/oil mix going through the engine. The heat of the engine will usually dissipate the water so no damage should occur.

I havent gotten a chance to look at it yet.
, so that round thing about the size of a $.50 piece screwed in under the console is the beeper?
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