Speedster SK one engine dies when other goes WOT

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Jdal

New Member
HI all, New here but have been lurking for awhile learning what I could. I bought a 99 speedster SK at the end of summer. It had a blown/ shredded starboard engine and a full tank of gas. The blown engine had been removed but it sat for two years before I came along. I ended up replacing well, everything except the magneto, head, carburetor, air silencer, and exhaust manifold on... Piston heads/ rings/ jugs and stator are all brand new. I drained the gas tank threw a little xylene in there while I worked on the new motor and then filled it with 5 gallons of rec gas. I bought a new battery and after the usual little frustrations I got it started on the trailer the Port (original engine) fired right up the new engine also fired up but didn't sound as deep and throaty as the original engine but it ran fine on the trailer.

I brought it down to the local ramp, left it on the trailer and started both engines, warmed them up throttled up and down a few times and all seemed good. took it home pulled the plugs all nice and chocolate colored. Gas gauge doesn't appear to work but that's for another day. Took it off the trailer in the water and putzed around a little, was having trouble with the new engine staying lit and thought it might be a carb issue and/or just burning off the trash in the motor from the rebuild. I decided to open it up and after a little frogging around it got up on plane. I kept it at about 3/4 throttle but noticed right away the new boat wanted to skew to port but straightened when I throttled back on the starboard engine. So I am thinking either an alignment issue or the new motor is just pushing harder. when I slowed to turn around and head back the SB motor died.

Now here is where it gets weird. I could start the SB engine and it would run great on it's own. as soon as I started the P engine and brought it to 3k RPM the SB would die. I managed to get back to the dock ok but never got the boat back on plane as I had to keep both engines at basically an Idle rpm. If I turned the wheel to the limit causing the low-speed Revs to kick in I would lose the SB engine again. Trying to dock a boat in a tight U Shaped launch when one engine keeps cutting out is no easy (or graceful) task.

I got the boat back home and threw the battery nanny on it and puzzled over it. I then realized that I had not grounded he two engines together when I reinstalled the new engine. I did do that this morning but before I take it out onto the water again, I wanted to throw it out to experts here if that missing ground would have caused the issues described (miss-matched thrust, dead engine when other goes WOT...) I'm guessing that the ground wire was possible touching the housing on the new motor but only loosely and when I turned the boat it disconnected entirely.

Also, Is there an easy way to adjust the timing on these things when they are in the boat. I am really sick of working blind and holding a plank position for hours on end trying to adjust the stator. not to mention getting the magneto on and off everytime.

Thanks!
 
If it is running fine at idle , I would say your issue is fuel related. Did you change fuel filter? Pinched fuel line when you reinstalled engine? Genuine mikuni parts? Cleaned internal carb filter?
 
Thanks for the reply. That's whats so wierd. I can get the SB motor to WOT without a hitch but as soon as the P motor comes up and matches RPM the SB motor dies. These things are quite loud even on the water so I can't really hear if it is dying of fuel starvation or just shuts off but watching the tach and adjusting the throttles it looks and feels more like an electrical kill which is why I was wondering if a disconnected ground between the two could be causing a weird feedback. I've seen stranger things in electral systems.

I didn't touch the carb other than to reinstall it. I just crossed my fingers that it was fine after the unintended instantaneous dissasembly of everything around it. The other motor and carb runs fine having sat for the same amount of time assembled. Fuel filter and oil filters are def. getting changed tomorrow.

I may stick it in the water anyway just to narrow the variables. But I suspect a carb rebuild is in my future.
 
The fuel selector also could be your issue. There are many comments about them failing and needing replacement. You could try cleaning it. If your carbs have not been cleaned I would probably start there. There is a really good step by step guide how to do it within this site. Might be a sticky in the pwc forums.
 
I have heard your electrical ideas. I have two 99 speedsters. Not sks. 800s. There is a ground running between the motors. For sure reinstall that and make sure contacts are clean. I have found that without it installed it more impacts the strength of the starter rather than running. But stranger things have happened :)
 
OK, I went ahead and ordered a rebuild kit and a couple of new needles and seats. Thanks for the tip on the tutorial on the rebuild. And thanks to everyone for putting that together!

My carb didnt look exactly like that one but I figured it out in conjunction with the service manual. The carb filter and the jet were all about 30% fouled. The needle and seat actually looked pretty good with just a hint of a groove under a microscope. I'm hoping to get it all back together and in the water tomorrow. I will report back my findings.

Thanks for all the help!
 
Thanks everyone, I went to put the boat in the watet last fall and the DNR had pulled all the docks and locked the launches for winter. I winterized the boat and just got it back in the water last weeked. Both motors fired right up, and burned off the fogging oil. Of course no sooner than I get it off the trailer, the rebuilt engine dies and won't restart. So back on the trailer. I did a little troubleshooting and found there was no fuel getting to the engine. I found an issue with the pulse tube for the pump. The angle tube was blocked with some gasket maker D'oh!
Amyway, I got it started and into the lake. However, I noticed I had to hold the choke out a bit to get it to run right, even after warming up. I ran it around like that for ten minutes and then when I started toward the dock and pulled back on the throttle it died and would not restart even when I sprayed some starter fluid into the spark arrestor. Back on shore I noticed the choke cable was a bit loose so I tightened that up but it is maxed on the threads so I can't go any tighter. I pulled the spark arrestor and it fired right up. Being dry I shut it right off again.
Now when I was running it on the lake I did not have the air silencer cover on or the engine compartment cover.

My question to those with knowledge and experience is: What next? Is the idle and throttle too rich or lean requiring additional choke? How do I adjust that? Was the lack of silencer simply providing too much free air?

I thought I would ask before I start randomly adjusting things and getting totally messed up.

Thanks again
 
Yay me, I figuered it out! Too much oil injection. I broke the little plastic guide on the injector cable at some point so I just ran it without it, which caused the injector to run too rich. I'm going to replace the carb just to be safe and will report back after install.
 
Make sure you have the air cleaner installed or you will run lean, never run them without it.
 
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