4-TEC Supercharger... can't get the darned nut loose!

[Michael211_2000]

Is it safe to apply some butane torch heat to the nut on the end of the supercharger's shaft? I can't break the nut loose, and it's forcing the shaft holding tool to bend and slide off as a result.

I thought this was supposed to be simple, the instructions seem straightforward enough... but I'm stuck at the starting gate it seems! :banghead:

The warm sunlight and extremely light winds are mocking me, I swear they are!!!!! :toetap05:

Thanks.

- Michael

 

[Dr Honda]

It shouldn't be that tight.

I would double check with chester... but yes, you may need a little heat to break the thread locker.

 

[Michael211_2000]

That's what I was thinking last night also, that the red locktite used to secure these shaft nuts might require some heat to break it loose... I just wanted to make sure that heating it up a bit with a propane torch wouldn't cause damage to the thing.

After sleeping on it last night, I think I'm going to try again here in a bit and use the torch on that nut for a couple seconds to see if it'll come loose. I'll let ya'll know how that works out!

Thanks.

- Michael

 

[Michael211_2000]

On the road again, just can't wait to be on the road again....

Yeah, heat did the trick! I had to get the nut good and hot, checking every 30 seconds or so with a wrench to see if it'd let go or not, and then on about the 4th try it finally came loose! Smokin baby!!!

Now I'm just letting things cool down before I proceed with this operation.

Thanks!

- Michael

 

[kustomkarl]

You do want to use thread locker again, to be sure it doesn't loosen up when running. Use the medium strength so it removes easier next time.

Karl

 

[Michael211_2000]

Use the medium strength (aka "blue") and you're likely to have the nut come off on it's own inside the engine! I actually read a posting on another message board this morning by a guy who's mechanic DID use blue threadlocker on his SC's shaft nut and it did come apart inside his engine within just a very short time.... not good that, very not good!

I do think that the instructions for replacing the washers or rebuilding the SC really aught to mention that the nut might need to be heated with a torch to release the red threadlocker so it can be removed. It seems obvious to me now, in hindsight.... but yeah, that red is tough stuff and only heat can make it let go!

Mine's done as of this evening and the SC is re-installed back into the engine and all hooked up. That 3rd bolt was a *itch!!!! I lost the wrench twice, down into the bilge under the engine it went a clattering.... I had to fish for awhile with a magnetic tool to retrieve it each time. But that last time, I thought I'd lost it for good took nearly 30 minutes before I finally heard the magnet latch onto that blasted little wrench!!!! :banghead:

I'm beat, my hands are good and torn up.... if it weren't for that 3rd bolt on the SC (and the need to heat the shaft nut to get the threadlocker to let go!) this would have been a cakewalk!!

Not doing this again for at least another 31 hours of operation, if that! Next time I gotta get a better tool to handle that 3rd mounting bolt with, an end-wrench is just too bloody difficult in there.

ps. Amzing difference between the steel washers and those ceramic ones... the OEM ceramic washers feel almost like they're made of plastic when you hold them in your hand! Light as feathers feeling. Weird!

- Michael

 

[seadooya]

curious

Well done, Michael...:cheers: Gotta ask, did you go and just start ripping the S.C. apart, or did you use some kind of guidance/manual. And for tools, did you need to order any special ones, or just ones we got in our toolbox?

 

[Michael211_2000]

I bought a kit which included steel washers and tools needed to do the job as well as instructions. There are also instructions available online.

Be aware that the 2 washers are NOT identical. There's an inner and an outer washer, they have slightly different inner diameters (you have to compare them very closely to see the difference, it's not obvious). I'm pretty sure it'd be a bad thing to put the replacement washers in in the wrong order.

The only specialty tool you absolutley have to have to replace the washers with is the spanner tool to hold the shaft with. I've noticed some of the tools are sold individually on Ebay from time to time. Without the spanner tool, you have no way to hold the SC shaft while you remove that end nut (which gave me something of a headache for a bit, till I heated it up with a hand torch).

Spring's just around the corner... we'll be getting up into the low 80's this next week already! Yeahhhhhhh! :willy_nilly:

- Michael

 

[TundraLu]

I bought a kit which included steel washers and tools needed to do the job as well as instructions. There are also instructions available online.

Be aware that the 2 washers are NOT identical. There's an inner and an outer washer, they have slightly different inner diameters (you have to compare them very closely to see the difference, it's not obvious). I'm pretty sure it'd be a bad thing to put the replacement washers in in the wrong order.

The only specialty tool you absolutley have to have to replace the washers with is the spanner tool to hold the shaft with. I've noticed some of the tools are sold individually on Ebay from time to time. Without the spanner tool, you have no way to hold the SC shaft while you remove that end nut (which gave me something of a headache for a bit, till I heated it up with a hand torch).

Spring's just around the corner... we'll be getting up into the low 80's this next week already! Yeahhhhhhh! :willy_nilly:

- Michael

Michael,

Good job man. That 3rd bolt is a PITA to get off.