2016 gtx limited iS260.... code p2080...? Egt sensor

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Sofla

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Throwing a code that ref. EGT sensor . Not limping just giving the code and check engine light.... went ahead and bought the sensor... but can someone help me out with where exactly the sensor is located and how to get to it as it appears i will need to remove some panels perhaps.?
 
Thanks. Do you know if such a code.. once corrected, would clear itself? How do i clear the code?
 
To the best of my knowledge, once the fault is corrected, it becomes inactive, check engine light goes out, fault code no longer readable on the MFD, fault code is then stored in ECM readable only with a BUDS reader.
 
Okay.... so ive replaced the sensor... having struggled with the old on being fused to the aluminum pipe...

That being said and having been done.... per the check engine light and the code reference on the mfd...?

The thought was that once corrected it would "clear " itself. But the light and the code remain. It was never limping as a result of the code or the warning; and ive done nothing to clear or reset the light or code display so... how to tell if it is the old condition and it is just still logged or is there a problem with it still? If still then having done what the code p2080 designated.. what now? I mean it was a straight forward plug n place repair so i cant imagine that it was just done insufficiently or incorrectly.
Any other insights?
 
P2080 - ECM, exhaust temperature not plausible

Possible Cause-
Damaged sensor, damaged circuit wires, damaged connector or damaged ECM output pins.

Service Action-

Check for approximately 2280 to 2736 ohms at temperature of 19 to 21 C between circuits A-H4 and A-J4. Refer to service manual for more details.

That’s checking the resistance of the sensor. If the resistance of the sensor is good (new sensor) the service manual directs you to check ECM as outlined in this subsection which requires a BUDS reader. The BUDS reader can also clear active codes to see if it’s actually an active code.
 
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I did find that you can try disconnecting the battery completely from the battery cables and then touch the cables together for 5 seconds, then reconnect the cables and see if that clears the code.
 
Seriously?.. okay..
Heheee thanks a pile for that precise detail.
Upon first inspection I could see that the sensor was broken away from its mount and the end was destroyed, lending me think that obviously this is the problem if not at least A problem.

Apart from a shitty running, presumbly from the several week sitting .... the sensor did not trip. Yet info and warning light remain.

Unrelated and a noted condition since i first got the ski is that it seems to not perform as touted. By this i mean to say the top end seems way low and that there should/could be far more there but im not reaching or seeing it. No cavitation or studder is obvious and this shallow running condition was noticed prior to the rough running state that i mentioned to begin this .

A little insight into the condition and how it came to me.... low hours.. a 2016.. i got it late 2018.. something like 10 hours on it.
As it happens, all that time in fairly salty waters. Compounding this is that it was kept on a driveon floating dock so even its down drytime was spent surrounded closely by the same salty and destructive waters.
I think that given these things, the ski is still in great shape but i cant necessarily speak to the conditions of the engine and the things that are not able to be readily accessible for cleanup or visible to be seen or inspected.
DIY is the best as i live on the water and cannot easily get it to a repair shop as i dont have a trailer.
Any suggestions?
 
Got the manual as suggested.
If i were to think that even as it seems to be running good..its not really giving the topend i would have expected?
What should i be looking for as far as a benchmark?

Rpms vs mph? Typical load only driver riding.?
 
Rev limiter 7800 to 8000 at wot. If the motor gets there it is probably in good condition. Speed is going to be influenced by several factors, load, temperatures, hull condition, etc. 55 to 60 most people would be satisfied with. If you get RPM and not speed it is probably a driveline issue, if you don’t get RPM it is motor or supercharger.
 
Perfectly clear and very relevant specific information. Many many thanks.
I can say with certainty that i dont see those rpms. If 6500 im rounding up.

What factors do i look for given this symptom?

Broad i know.

Thanks.
 
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