2014 gtx 215 runs rough, vibrates, sluggish take off and no top end...

[Goochalone]

Man,I really hope it runs smooth for you ,I didn't have good luck with mine ,installed new fuel pump same issue but mine will actually run at 100% every once in a while and not for long its almost like something is stuck or clogged up, I was almost certain it was starving for fuel but pump made no difference, I pulled all injectors cleaned them with carb cleaner & 9V,they seem to be functioning properly not sure if they would cause the problem I'm having but I ordered new injectors that will be in this week just incase. I'm at stand still now ,just seems like something simple I'm missing cause it starts up fine ,doesn't even idle rough just doesn't have any power, but then it's like surging when I give it full throttle and like i said sometimes if i keep it W.O.T I will slowly, steadily, keep kinda getn stronger more RPMs and then like I said for a couple minutes It actually felt strong like at 100% ..

So I just dropped it in and no go. It ran a bit better with throttle response but no speed. Eco mode was at 5500 rpms and top 35mph, sport mode max at 6400 rpms and top at 42 mph. It was sad bringing back to the trailer. All tho it felt smoother I'm determined if I should swap out the fuel pump.. or there might be a restriction on my normal key not allowing it to go further than certain rpms. Or could just be my plugs again but I find that the plugs can't keep fouling if I have no additive in the fuel.

 

[turbosl2]

Let me know what happens with that fuel gauge. I think the block off plate that comes with the Fizzle1000 has that option of installing one. I'm going to look into it myself. A tech told me the fuel pressure should be a 52lbs. Not sure if he was correct but, I'll do some research and double check. My fizzle should be here Thursday evening. Hopefully it doesn't take too long to install and we can finally have a solution to this nightmare!!
Stay in touch and send me a pic of the gauge you install.

Just a FYI if you have 215s you really should not add an external IC like the fizzle in place of your internal IC unless you are changing injectors and a tune. The IC upgrade alone will add 300-400 more rpm due to the charge air being cooler. This will make the motor run lean at WOT unless your changing injectors amd tune. At that point you mine as well go xcharger and a RRFPR. Just be carful with just the simple IC swap. A lot of the motors have 42lb injectors (depending on the setup), but not all. I just went through this with my twin 215s. Idk your setup but just passing the info.

 

[Goochalone]

Just a FYI if you have 215s you really should not add an external IC like the fizzle in place of your internal IC unless you are changing injectors and a tune. The IC upgrade alone will add 300-400 more rpm due to the charge air being cooler. This will make the motor run lean at WOT unless your changing injectors amd tune. At that point you mine as well go xcharger and a RRFPR. Just be carful with just the simple IC swap. A lot of the motors have 42lb injectors (depending on the setup), but not all. I just went through this with my twin 215s. Idk your setup but just passing the info.

Thanks for the heads up. I did get the x charger and I already had the 42lb injectors. I don't run the ski alot so I will try it out and my next set up will be the air intake and probably a tune..I just want to get passed it running rough and bring my rpms back to where they were or more.

 

[Goochalone]

Just a FYI if you have 215s you really should not add an external IC like the fizzle in place of your internal IC unless you are changing injectors and a tune. The IC upgrade alone will add 300-400 more rpm due to the charge air being cooler. This will make the motor run lean at WOT unless your changing injectors amd tune. At that point you mine as well go xcharger and a RRFPR. Just be carful with just the simple IC swap. A lot of the motors have 42lb injectors (depending on the setup), but not all. I just went through this with my twin 215s. Idk your setup but just passing the info.

What model and years are your 215's

 

[Trok]

That's not what I like to hear ,was hoping it worked out for you.i would check ur fuel pressure but like I said I changed mine(fuel pump) and made no difference ,its like there's something very simple we're over looking

 

[Goochalone]

That's not what I like to hear ,was hoping it worked out for you.i would check ur fuel pressure but like I said I changed mine(fuel pump) and made no difference ,its like there's something very simple we're over looking

I agree. It has to be something simple.. I'm going to change the plugs again today and check the fuel pressure when my kit comes in tomorrow. Or I might just drop in the new fuel pump I have. I'm running out of components to check.

 

[turbosl2]

What model and years are your 215's

Older, 2008s

 

[Goochalone]

So I didn't have any luck with getting my ski back to normal. I've been researching and found that the air pressure sensor ans air temp sensor can also give the symptoms of low rpms and loss of power. Going back to what happened I did find my internal intercooler soaked with oil and the intake was not loaded with water or oil just a bit dirty. I cleaned the injectors again and cleaned out the intake manifold so is it possible both sensors can cause this rough idle and loss of power and rpms?

 

[MacSeaDoo]

The short answer is yes.

There is no oxygen sensor or post combustion sensors related to air/fuel ratio.

The engine simply has fuel maps based on throttle position, and MAP. It then uses thr intake temp sensor to correct for temp.

If any of them provide bad data, the maps used may be way off for the amount of fuel.

I know with the MAP sensor it is simple and you can find the actual pressure ohm ranges. Same for the temp sensor.

Easier if you have Candoo.

 

[Goochalone]

The short answer is yes.

There is no oxygen sensor or post combustion sensors related to air/fuel ratio.

The engine simply has fuel maps based on throttle position, and MAP. It then uses thr intake temp sensor to correct for temp.

If any of them provide bad data, the maps used may be way off for the amount of fuel.

I know with the MAP sensor it is simple and you can find the actual pressure ohm ranges. Same for the temp sensor.

Easier if you have Candoo.

I have a candoo pro. I was trying to learn how to read but its a bit confusing to get used to the software and functions. Plus I didn't want to run the ski too long. I'll let it cool down before I run it again.

 

[Goochalone]

The short answer is yes.

There is no oxygen sensor or post combustion sensors related to air/fuel ratio.

The engine simply has fuel maps based on throttle position, and MAP. It then uses thr intake temp sensor to correct for temp.

If any of them provide bad data, the maps used may be way off for the amount of fuel.

I know with the MAP sensor it is simple and you can find the actual pressure ohm ranges. Same for the temp sensor.

Easier if you have Candoo.

Is it possible to guide me through the candoo screen and how to find the ohm ranges. What screen should I be on to view the ohms?

 

[MacSeaDoo]

With Candoo you don't need ohm ranges. It will show you what the intake temp from the sensor is.

Example would be, if the machine is cold for a while the intake temp should be the same as ambient.

As for the map, that would be the boost gauge.

 

[Goochalone]

Ok guys, here's an update. So as I further look into the ski. I went through every turn and all checks out and still no codes and runs rough not allowing rpms to get where they should be. So here is what I last ran into. I was just checking coils again and for some reason because I was checking everything at once I must of never confirmed that cylinder one wasn't firing. Again there are no fault codes. I checked everything I could from the pump, fuel, injectors, air , intake, intercooler, supercharger to all the sensors and even swapped sensors and no positive results. So I started over and going into swapping out the coils I noticed cylinder one doesn't fire but the coil is fine and I get voltage to the plug coil clip. I don't think the plug is firing at all actually I'm certain it doesn't. It's always wet of fuel and a good coil doesn't work on that cylinder. When I use cylinder one coil on 2 or 3 it works. I pull the clip on cylinder 1 while running and no difference.. so I narrowed it down in the harness from the ecm plug to the tip of the spark plug. I'm thinking the pin in the clip is not making contact or there is no ground on that one cylinder. I'm going to have to dig up the schematics and take a look on how to check if im getting the pulse to that one clip or plug for that coil. I checked continuity from the ecu to the plug on the brown with black striped wire and that's fine. Now I need to try and do the same with the other wire on the plug. The only problem is that I'm colorblind and all those three blue wires coming from the coil packs look the same in that one harness going down towards the Grey plug towards the magneto side of the engine. Once I check the continuity, what else is there to check? I feel like I'm so close and I really think it's just something as simple as replacing that plug to the coil. I just don't want to splice it just yet if there is another test to see if that is delivering the voltage for the coil. Oh yeah and the fuses all check out. So any info is appreciated before I sink this thing lol. Also if anyone knows where I can find those clips for the coil would be great because all I found was a set of coils, plugs and the clips for 139.00 and I don't need all that. Thanks again for listening and I hope this helps a few guys. A lesson learned on my part for sure.

 

[Goochalone]

I also wanted to add to help a few guys out when working alone and need a second hand. I used a ratchet stap and modified use of a carbon seal tool. In this pic it was my first try and worked, now I use it with a shackle and a ratchet one strap for easy access. I thought I had a pic of the last one I did but, you'll get the idea when you see it. I used the motor hook and a strap to pull the tool forward. With this step you'll have to drop a small 10mm socket or something to make up some space so the pump applies pressure on the shatf then put the pump back on with the top 2 nuts or bolts and no washer so you can grab a few threads. Don't try and tighten down too much, just enough to get the shaft in a position to not slide backwards. Then apply the tool. The one I have is from set and I removed the adjusting nut for my ski due to its distance. With the ratchet you can easily crank it until the clip appears and walla!! Hope this helps. Oh and I use a .99 cents noddle so I don't get fiberglass rash. Get the one with the hole in the center and slice it down with a razor. I'll attach photos.

 

[MacSeaDoo]

There is a small rubber orange seal in each of the clips. They often fall out when you handle them. If they are out, water can get in the clip and corrode it.

They can also deform or come apart and foul the connection.

I lost one in the bilge once, could not reach it and ended up getting the shop vac to such it up and had to dig through to pick it out.

Just an observation

 

[Goochalone]

There is a small rubber orange seal in each of the clips. They often fall out when you handle them. If they are out, water can get in the clip and corrode it.

They can also deform or come apart and foul the connection.

I lost one in the bilge once, could not reach it and ended up getting the shop vac to such it up and had to dig through to pick it out.

Just an observation

I actually replaced them a while ago but I'll check them again to see if it's pushing the clip far from making the connection

 

[Goochalone]

That's not what I like to hear ,was hoping it worked out for you.i would check ur fuel pressure but like I said I changed mine(fuel pump) and made no difference ,its like there's something very simple we're over looking

Hey Trok,
Here's what I discovered. When this first happened my first thought was plugs. Changed them out and then nothing. I leaned towards fuel. Changed the fuel filter, no difference. I removed the injectors and cleaned them on the bench with a 9 volt battery with carb cleaner. They looked and sprayed great. So I didn't think the fuel being the issue with the plugs were wet at times. Welllllll....... yesterday after i tested compression and spark and confirmed it was OK I went back to fuel... I swapped out the injectors and moved them around. I started the ski with one injector plugged in at a time and sure enough there is one that is not spraying enough to not start and misfires. And when I had all injectors plugged and running I did the coil test and unplugged a coil at a time and it happened on the cylinder where I placed the bad injector. I was over looking this because I had it spraying with a 9 volt battery pretty good. I'm curious now, does the ecu send 1- 5 volts to the injector to spray fuel or does all that get controlled by the tps sensor. Maybe someone can fill us in for future reference. Did the new injectors work for you?

 

[pretex]

Quick question. Did you check the fuse for that coil/injector. There is a 10amp fuse for each cylinder, they share that same 12volt supply. Here is the wiring diagram and a clip of the section you should be looking at.

 

[Goochalone]

Yes

Quick question. Did you check the fuse for that coil/injector. There is a 10amp fuse for each cylinder, they share that same 12volt supply. Here is the wiring diagram and a clip of the section you should be looking at.
View attachment 56297

 

[Goochalone]

Yes I did, that's why I switched the injectors around and checked if each cylinder dropped.. the faulty injector showed no change in every cylinder. I'll know tommorow when I swap out that injector. I'll definitely post it and thanks for the schematic. That will come in handy in the future..

 

[Goochalone]

Hey Trok,
Here's what I discovered. When this first happened my first thought was plugs. Changed them out and then nothing. I leaned towards fuel. Changed the fuel filter, no difference. I removed the injectors and cleaned them on the bench with a 9 volt battery with carb cleaner. They looked and sprayed great. So I didn't think the fuel being the issue with the plugs were wet at times. Welllllll....... yesterday after i tested compression and spark and confirmed it was OK I went back to fuel... I swapped out the injectors and moved them around. I started the ski with one injector plugged in at a time and sure enough there is one that is not spraying enough to not start and misfires. And when I had all injectors plugged and running I did the coil test and unplugged a coil at a time and it happened on the cylinder where I placed the bad injector. I was over looking this because I had it spraying with a 9 volt battery pretty good. I'm curious now, does the ecu send 1- 5 volts to the injector to spray fuel or does all that get controlled by the tps sensor. Maybe someone can fill us in for future reference. Did the new injectors work for you?

Hey guys, so here is the final outcome.
I finally made it back down to the beach house. After finding out from swapping coils and coils were fine I swapped injectors. They all sprayed fine when I bench tested them but when I swapped the injectors into different cylinders I found out by pulling the coil plug a different cylinder wasn't firing correctly by the change in rpms and sound. I continued with a different cylinder and everything I put that specific injector in a spot, that was cylinder that gave the problem. I purchased a used one for $35 on ebay, cleaned it, bench tested with 9v bat and it sprayed so much better. I assembled everything and now it purrs and the throttle response is what it used to be. I'll be testing it as soon as the wife gets back with my truck and post the final and I believe the results of a nerve racking chase for a misfire and loss of power. Thanks for all the help and if it wasn't for you guys I would of sent this nightmare to the steelership to come back with the same results and a bill. So in a nut shell. Don't always trust the 9v battery test. Make sure they are super clean send them out to get cleaned or replace them. Don't drive yourself nuts like I did. Thank God I have another ski othe

 

[Goochalone]

Finally launched the ski and all is good and actually running better than before.. thanks again guys

 

[Waverider57]

Glad to hear it!‍