Hey, all. Having trouble with 2011 GTI 130. I recently acquired it and I’m going through all maintenance before I have some fun. It’s giving me weird trouble. Fault codes are P0118, P0325. Ski is giving one long beep and check engine light before even starting the ski. Its running rough, hard to start. I replaced oil, filter and plugs. Issue remains. Same codes, same beep, still runs rough. Then, I replaced knock sensor, no change. I’m at a loss as to why the ski could be throwing same codes even after sensors are replaced. Thing that makes me crazy, is that I get the codes and check engine light along with a long beep even before the ski starts. I can’t figure how the ski can possibly know there’s a problem if it’s not even running! Any tips or advise to give?? Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
2011 GTI 130 codes remain after sensor replacement!!
- Thread starter Rich1986
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Hey popps, ski-d00. No I didn’t replace the other sensor, just taking a pause after the the first one got me frustrated(service manual and other sensor are ordered and on the way). I thought the knock sensor would have cleared up when changing it. I did take connectors apart and they seemed clean, but I can try to clean them just in case. What’s the best thing to use when cleaning plugs? Is there a spray that will remove any crud/oxidation without hurting anything? If this is not the issue, what would be the next step in digging for the issue? Thanks for yalls reply and help!
ski-d00
Well-Known Member
You have to take the connectors apart, not just clean them. The crimp area where the wire connects to the terminal is a very common place for bad connections and the only way to find them is to remove the terminal from the connector. Simple resistance checks on your circuits is a good place to start.
Ahh, I gotcha. I’ve never attempted that, but I’ll give it a go. Thank you
Digdog
Active Member
Figure out the hard starting and running rough problem first, a knock sensor code won't cause it to run bad. Pull the plugs and look at them , you can tell lots by the color etc. The knock code is probably coming from the engine misfiring , maybe one of the coils needs replacing.
ski-d00
Well-Known Member
The knock sensor circuit not working properly will cause it to run poorly. The ECU is constantly getting readings from the knock sensor and adjusting the timing on the fly.
Something is not wired, bad connection, or bad sensors since it goes straight into check engine. Once all the circuits are working properly, the check engine and codes won't come up when it powers up there won't be any need to clear codes as it will self correct and those codes will become only occurred, or inactive.
Something is not wired, bad connection, or bad sensors since it goes straight into check engine. Once all the circuits are working properly, the check engine and codes won't come up when it powers up there won't be any need to clear codes as it will self correct and those codes will become only occurred, or inactive.
That makes a lot of sense. You seem very knowledgeable. Thank you Ski-d00
Ok… update. All grounds are secure. I disconnected, cleaned, and added dielectric grease to every connector I could find. Now, when key is powered on, I still get the long beep a couple of seconds after powering cluster(before starting), but check engine light no longer comes on under key power alone. It does come on once started. Rough running is eliminated(on idle out of water anyways), but what is this beep? Still same fault codes are showing, but ski is acting MUCH better.
ski-d00
Well-Known Member
The long beep is usually a communication error between the cluster and the ECU but will start and run. Sometimes there are some missing components in the LCD display when this happens.
I still think you have connection problems. Dielectric grease is only a band aid and a temporary semi fix. You need to find the bad connections which you will have to disassemble terminals from the connectors. Most dealers wouldn't diagnose but would charge $1000 or more for new wiring harnesses. I prefer to find the connection problems by systematically diagnosing each circuit and then repairing the bad connections. Usually can be done in a couple hours or less. Typically they corrode right at the crimp or slightly behind in the wire itself.
I still think you have connection problems. Dielectric grease is only a band aid and a temporary semi fix. You need to find the bad connections which you will have to disassemble terminals from the connectors. Most dealers wouldn't diagnose but would charge $1000 or more for new wiring harnesses. I prefer to find the connection problems by systematically diagnosing each circuit and then repairing the bad connections. Usually can be done in a couple hours or less. Typically they corrode right at the crimp or slightly behind in the wire itself.
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