2010 RXT nearly sank today

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Peyton10

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Started getting real slow even at full throttle in sport mode. New immediately something was wrong. Stopped engine and just floated but it kept taking on water. Luckily we flagged down a boat and they towed us back to the dock and we beach it before it went under. Water never reached the seat and it never tipped over and got bars or gauges wet. Took ever bit of strength I had to not let it tip.

Got it on trailer, pulled both plugs. It's been 1 hour and it's still draining! Water is extremely hot like it was heated by engine. Not cold like lake water at all. Engine compartment was half full of water and took right side back well out and it was overflowing and battery and all electronics completely submerged. Don't see a single thing wrong visibly underneath. It only has 17 hours on it and it all still looks brand new underneath. No scratches no nothing! What the hell happened? It REALLY bothers me that if that boat had not come along when it did my $16,000 RXT would be at the bottom of the lake right now. We did buy the service package and the service warranty for the RXT. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thx!
 
Get yourself an automatic electric 600+ gph bilge pump and install it in your hull! It'll save you from sinking (or coming so near to sinking) if you develop a leak! It'll certainly buy you more time if you develop a severe leak... the OEM water extraction system is very low gph and only works while the engine is running. Also I have my electric bilge pump wired directly to the battery (with it's own fuse) so it's in auto mode ALL the time... the auto switch is mechanical, so no drain on battery this way. Being automatic, if you're tied to a dock or anchored and playing in the water you'll know something is wrong if you see your SeaDoo suddenly discharging water over the side!

Check under your hull, the front intake grate bolt goes completely thru the hull and if it's vibrated loose and fallen out of the grate then you have an open hole for water to come in thru (and you can loose your intake grate this way also!). If not that, then put the plugs back in leave the seat off and go back it into the lake and look inside with a flashlight to see where water may be coming from... if you see nothing, then try starting it and let it idle still on the trailer backed into the water and look for any leaks. I'm sure you'll discover something!

ps. The water in the hull got hot because the engine was hot when you shut it off... just like an automotive engine. My RXT is quite hot inside after trailering it home, at least 50 minutes drive time. Only noticed this because I popped the seat open the other day just after getting home to let it air out, and was suprised just how hot the air inside the hull was.

pps. I'd pull the spark plugs and spin the engine over a few seconds to make sure you didn't get any water into the intake!!!! It sounds like you got her awefully full of water after all. Might also want to consider an oil and filter change too!

- Michael
 
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I cannot begin to describe the peace of mind a good automatic electric bilge pump gives me when going boating, either with my big jetboat or my RXT SeaDoo! I spent all of $60 on the electric bilge pump for my Seadoo, and maybe 2 1/2 hours getting it installed and wired up for operation. I also put a manual lighted rocker switch inside my glove box so I can test for pump operation (or override the auto) if desired. I flip it on for a few seconds and listen for the pump running before launching. Mine's 600 gph (Seasense auto bilge pump from Academy) and testing it it's about twice as powerful as my home's water hose... it drains the hull almost dry, even with the water hose running wide open inside my hull!

It's the best $$$ you'll spend on your machine.

- Michael
 
One last thing... if ya'll towed it anything faster than a slow idle, then your engine IS almost certainly full of water. There's a hose that has to be pinched off inside the hull for towing above 5mph. You make no mention of having pinched that hose off, and sounds like you were in a hurry to get towed back to shore, so be warned! Check your oil dipstick, see if it's higher than it should be or has water on the stick. If that looks ok and the oil level hasn't increased or turned milky, then still pull those spark plugs and turn the engine over a few seconds to make CERTAIN there's no water in the cyclinders!

Towing over 5mph pushes water into the jetpump and causes water to start flowing thru the water lines inside the hull... including the lines that feed water into the exhaust manifold for cooling. That fills up with water and then water starts to flow into whichever cyclinder has an open exhaust valve, filling it up with water... water slowly drains down thru the piston rings, "making oil". Bad deal that.

Regards!

- Michael
 
The ehxaust system and the intercooler are water cooled (with water from the lake/ocean). Check all of these water lines. This is where you might find the leak.
 
So, was there a leak? I don't want this to happen to my PWC!

And I will defenetly look for an automatic electric bilge pump like Michael suggested.
Anyone have a link to a thread showing how to install one?
 
Academy has the Seasense 600 gph auto bilge pump for like ~$30. It has a small footprint and a mechanical float switch, all in 1 unit. Easily installed by the waterbox, just mix up some 2 part 5 or 10 minute epoxy and slather it on the bottom of the pump and sit it in place on the flat circle spot inside the hull between the pump shaft and waterbox.

PM me for more details if you like. I was able to shorten a stainless steel/plastic 90 degree thru-hull fitting and install it just at the bottom inside of the stern grab rail on my RXT (shortened the fitting so as not to conflict with the storage tray under the rear seat). If you don't have a rear storage tray then most any thru-hull fitting straight or 90 degree should work. Wire the auto hot wire directly to battery (with an inline 20 amp fuse) and put a manual on/off rocker switch inside your glovebox for manual operation (the manual wire from the bilge pump). Takes maybe 2 or 3 hours start to finish if you do a nicely detailed isntallation and routing of the wires. Really gives me confidence when I'm tied up to a dock and walking away to get my vehicle or eat at the marina or whatever; I know it'll still be floating when I get back! I highly recommend!

- Michael
 
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Call me I know why they sink, manufacturing design flaw 281 881 1609 Ron

Call me I know why they sink, manufacturing design flaw 281 881 1609 Ron


QUOTE=Peyton10;192015]Started getting real slow even at full throttle in sport mode. New immediately something was wrong. Stopped engine and just floated but it kept taking on water. Luckily we flagged down a boat and they towed us back to the dock and we beach it before it went under. Water never reached the seat and it never tipped over and got bars or gauges wet. Took ever bit of strength I had to not let it tip.

Got it on trailer, pulled both plugs. It's been 1 hour and it's still draining! Water is extremely hot like it was heated by engine. Not cold like lake water at all. Engine compartment was half full of water and took right side back well out and it was overflowing and battery and all electronics completely submerged. Don't see a single thing wrong visibly underneath. It only has 17 hours on it and it all still looks brand new underneath. No scratches no nothing! What the hell happened? It REALLY bothers me that if that boat had not come along when it did my $16,000 RXT would be at the bottom of the lake right now. We did buy the service package and the service warranty for the RXT. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thx![/QUOTE]
 
If you know why they sink why not just post the information here? It makes no sense to have people call you!


Call me I know why they sink, manufacturing design flaw 281 881 1609 Ron


QUOTE=Peyton10;192015]Started getting real slow even at full throttle in sport mode. New immediately something was wrong. Stopped engine and just floated but it kept taking on water. Luckily we flagged down a boat and they towed us back to the dock and we beach it before it went under. Water never reached the seat and it never tipped over and got bars or gauges wet. Took ever bit of strength I had to not let it tip.

Got it on trailer, pulled both plugs. It's been 1 hour and it's still draining! Water is extremely hot like it was heated by engine. Not cold like lake water at all. Engine compartment was half full of water and took right side back well out and it was overflowing and battery and all electronics completely submerged. Don't see a single thing wrong visibly underneath. It only has 17 hours on it and it all still looks brand new underneath. No scratches no nothing! What the hell happened? It REALLY bothers me that if that boat had not come along when it did my $16,000 RXT would be at the bottom of the lake right now. We did buy the service package and the service warranty for the RXT. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thx!
[/QUOTE]
 
Sea-doo RXT and GTX "IS" intelligent suspension models will sink if your not aware...

If you know why they sink why not just post the information here? It makes no sense to have people call you!
[/QUOTE] The Sea-Doo "IS" (RXT and GTX) models that came out in 2009/10/11 will sink if your not aware of their design flaw, when you know of it you can prevent it. But Sea-doo to this date doesn't want to educate anyone of this issue because then they would have admitted or accepted some responsibility. There have been about 5 of them brought in to the local shop in Houston TX that have sunk. Here is their issue... it is a two part craft where the top with the seat and controls sits over top of the bottom boat hull and the two pieces are connected by the suspension, allowing the bottom hull and the shocks or suspension to take most of the rough ride and then your on the top part of the hull so you get a smoother ride. In order to have enough travel with the shocks Sea-doo had to make the footwells extra deep. But then they made the engine compartment wall (under the seat) about an inch and a half shorter than the footwell wall outer part of the craft. Their thought was the craft would always sit in a way that the water in the footwells will exit the back channel as it does when riding it. When riding the craft there is no issue, but if you park it on a watercraft type floating dock or your trailer, somewhere where the craft can sit level and not allowing the rear to be slightly down, and the footwells fill up with water from wakes, waves, or rain, the water will flood into your engine compartment. Ours sat on a hydro-port floating dock in a marina while on vacation and it rained over night, we went down to ride it and the footwells had some water in them, so we splashed it out started it up and back it off the dock, and then the engine died.... this is where it starts..., no boat ramp around, sides of lake are like cliffs no where to dock it, the water in the engine compartment shifts to the back of the craft changing the draft of the craft so that the fire extinguisher compartment is slightly now under water, and in case you read your owners manual which says the Fire extinguisher compartment is water tight when closed..., it is not, and sea-doo has written me and admitted that, but they said it should never be underwater. And they also said if you allow the footwells to fill up with water they will hold a great deal of water, but it will not flood into the engine compartment. Well..., my local dealer and I no better, I even filmed it occurring as I'm getting ready to take on Sea-doo. I own (2) Sea-doo RXT IS units and I have tested both and the engine compartment will flood both of them when water fills the footwells and they sit level, not tilting backwards. If they would have just made the engine compartment 1 1/2" taller they would not have this issue. I plan to put my video out on Youtube to help educate owners since Sea-doo is being hush hush about it leaving owners unsafe and at risk of having their unit sink if circumstances are right, resulting in thousands of dollars in damage. So two things resulted in the uniting sinking with my wife sitting on it in the marina. First when unit sits level and does not tilt back if footwells fill up with water (when parked) it will go into your engine compartment, then when the draft of the craft makes the fire extinguisher compartment slightly under water it is not water tight and will take on water pretty rapidly, especially once water is in the engine compartment pushing up on the FE tray like a boat making the very poor seal less effective. I have heard of 6 units sinking now, due to this issue. So if you know of it, consider a auto bilge pump, always when parked or stored outdoors put cover on it, take plugs out and and make sure it sits with the rear slightly tilted down. In my case it was parked on a hydro-port while on vacation and sat very level, plugs where in because the dock sits slightly in the water in the marina, so when the footwells filled up with water it continued flooding into the engine compartment. And then Sea-doo admits their manual says the FE compartment is a water tight seal, but they now say it is only water resistant, but should never be under water.... If anyone else has experienced this issue email me clinerp20@yahoo.com, we can join forces to take on BRP (Sea-Doo). They and the US Coast Guard need to be warning people of this little mis calculation in design . Hope this helps you, and if you like I can send you a video I filmed duplicating the footwells in my driveway on the trailer.

Ron
 
Holy flurkin shnit?!! o_O
I am very sad to learn such a news, for customers especialy. I'm happy I didn't bought mine with a suspension.
 
I do not like those split-hull Independant Suspension designs... if the water is that rough, then you need to slow down IMHO. Automatic electric bilge pump would help, but only as long as the battery lasts at some point if nobody intervenes and water keeps coming into the hull the electric bilge will drain the battery and THEN down she'll go! Bad design that IS hull no doubt.

Thanks for taking the time to type all that out and post it, Ron.

- Michael
 
The Sea-Doo "IS" (RXT and GTX) models that came out in 2009/10/11 will sink if your not aware of their design flaw, when you know of it you can prevent it. But Sea-doo to this date doesn't want to educate anyone of this issue because then they would have admitted or accepted some responsibility. There have been about 5 of them brought in to the local shop in Houston TX that have sunk. Here is their issue... it is a two part craft where the top with the seat and controls sits over top of the bottom boat hull and the two pieces are connected by the suspension, allowing the bottom hull and the shocks or suspension to take most of the rough ride and then your on the top part of the hull so you get a smoother ride. In order to have enough travel with the shocks Sea-doo had to make the footwells extra deep. But then they made the engine compartment wall (under the seat) about an inch and a half shorter than the footwell wall outer part of the craft. Their thought was the craft would always sit in a way that the water in the footwells will exit the back channel as it does when riding it. When riding the craft there is no issue, but if you park it on a watercraft type floating dock or your trailer, somewhere where the craft can sit level and not allowing the rear to be slightly down, and the footwells fill up with water from wakes, waves, or rain, the water will flood into your engine compartment. Ours sat on a hydro-port floating dock in a marina while on vacation and it rained over night, we went down to ride it and the footwells had some water in them, so we splashed it out started it up and back it off the dock, and then the engine died.... this is where it starts..., no boat ramp around, sides of lake are like cliffs no where to dock it, the water in the engine compartment shifts to the back of the craft changing the draft of the craft so that the fire extinguisher compartment is slightly now under water, and in case you read your owners manual which says the Fire extinguisher compartment is water tight when closed..., it is not, and sea-doo has written me and admitted that, but they said it should never be underwater. And they also said if you allow the footwells to fill up with water they will hold a great deal of water, but it will not flood into the engine compartment. Well..., my local dealer and I no better, I even filmed it occurring as I'm getting ready to take on Sea-doo. I own (2) Sea-doo RXT IS units and I have tested both and the engine compartment will flood both of them when water fills the footwells and they sit level, not tilting backwards. If they would have just made the engine compartment 1 1/2" taller they would not have this issue. I plan to put my video out on Youtube to help educate owners since Sea-doo is being hush hush about it leaving owners unsafe and at risk of having their unit sink if circumstances are right, resulting in thousands of dollars in damage. So two things resulted in the uniting sinking with my wife sitting on it in the marina. First when unit sits level and does not tilt back if footwells fill up with water (when parked) it will go into your engine compartment, then when the draft of the craft makes the fire extinguisher compartment slightly under water it is not water tight and will take on water pretty rapidly, especially once water is in the engine compartment pushing up on the FE tray like a boat making the very poor seal less effective. I have heard of 6 units sinking now, due to this issue. So if you know of it, consider a auto bilge pump, always when parked or stored outdoors put cover on it, take plugs out and and make sure it sits with the rear slightly tilted down. In my case it was parked on a hydro-port while on vacation and sat very level, plugs where in because the dock sits slightly in the water in the marina, so when the footwells filled up with water it continued flooding into the engine compartment. And then Sea-doo admits their manual says the FE compartment is a water tight seal, but they now say it is only water resistant, but should never be under water.... If anyone else has experienced this issue email me clinerp20@yahoo.com, we can join forces to take on BRP (Sea-Doo). They and the US Coast Guard need to be warning people of this little mis calculation in design . Hope this helps you, and if you like I can send you a video I filmed duplicating the footwells in my driveway on the trailer.

Ron[/QUOTE] Here let me add to this.... My local dealer in Houston told me they took this up with Sea-doo and Sea-doo wanting to take no responsibility for an error in their design, so the local dealer not wanting to hide it from potential customers that were wanting to buy this IS model, so they started suggesting anyone buying this model spring for the auto bilge pump option. Then I'm going to guess Sea-doo got on to them about that.... so this year they told me they didn't even order any of this model for their showroom floor. Interesting huh....! I'm working on contacting the US coast guard as well, because they put their stamp of approval on any water vessel such as a boat or watercraft. So they need to know of this hidden flaw, that Sea-doo is aware of but they are treating it like most recalls, nothing done until a large enough percentage of owners complain. And most watercraft owners put on the water and ride and then take off the water, so will only happen in certain circumstances such as my where we were on vacation, only time we ever left our craft on a hydro-port watercraft dock. Normally we put in and ride and take out, and then there is no issue. (just don't leave outdoors with plugs in on a trailer, unless you make sure crafts are slightly tilted backwards). Trust me I'm pissed, My wife and I have bought 7 brand new Sea-doo watercrafts over the years starting back in 1996, and "we" will buy no more Sea-doos, after seeing them play the denial game. I have in writing from a sea-doo design engineer saying the exact opposite that I and my local dealer are aware of is a design issue. Like I mentioned above, and it pissed me off such much I filmed it occurring in my own driveway on both of the 09 RXT IS models I own. Next steps Youtube film, Local News Station, and US Coastguard.
 
Sell the IS's and get a SeaDoo model without that stupid IS crap. I wonder if Kawasaki and Yamaha IS type PWC's have the same issue or not? As I said I dislike the very idea of the split hull with shock absorbers design, it adds too much unnecessary complexity and weight to the watercraft IMHO.

:rant: Ever notice the size of the open holes in the bottom of the ride plates on almost every SeaDoo PWC? It's insane, you might as well have 6 little anchors dragging in the water behind the Doo's! I epoxied mine flush just the other weekend (the epoxy plugs can be knocked back out with a screwdrive and hammer later if ever needed). There's also a 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap between the ride plate and the hull (I siliconed that flush), the bolts that hold the intake grate in (siliconed flush on mine again).... it's like they had no clue how to make a clean hydrodynamic bottom on these watercraft!!! My 1975 jetboat with Berkely jet pump doesn't have a seam underneith that you could get a razor blade into it's so tight, and the only bolts going thru the bottom of the hull are all flat head's with slots (for screwdriver to hold while tightened from inside the hull)... hydrodynamically it's clean as a whistle on it's underside, and it's OLD built back in the mid 70's. You'd think current manufacturers would have higher standards of quality? Anyhows... :rant:

Where do you go boating around Houston? I prefer to drive up to Lake Livingston (instead of going to Lake Houston or Lake Conroe, which are both closer to me). I'm heading up there again later this afternoon I think, low rain chance not too windy and Lake Livingston is around 95% capacity sooo.... ya'll should come up sometime! :)

- Michael
 
Michael, here the sad part, we haven't used the IS models I have in the garage since the one sank with 3 hours on it..... Seadoo never would fix it.... and the cost to fix it is between 4 and 6 grand, and thats after I already spent close to a grand in them finding out why it sank. So I've have an attorney trying to get a class-action suit going on this model. But the previous ones we would take them to the Galveston bay, Lake TRavis, Lake Granby, Lake Houston...., Summerville Lake, Clear Lake, and then every summer we drive up to Bull Shoals AR, to meet family for the week... Thats when the new craft sunk last year in July. So here we are showing up with (2) brand new top of the line Sea-doos, and my wife's sinks in the marina on day one of vacation. With plenty of people standing there watching this big shinning yellow submarine going down. We had only taken them out once here n texas to try them out before our vacation from hell. Trust me its a messed ordeal.... Sea-doo and there lack in wanting to make things right. Basically we always went to different lakes up to about a 3 hour drive, just making a day out of it on the weekends..... At least thats how it worked until I bought these two sinking units I have now tucked away in the back of the garage.
 
SeaDoo (aka BRP) probably thinks this is a new feature... the 1st convertible PWC! It's a PWC, it's a submarine, it's a giant SeaDoo shaped boat anchor! :willy_nilly:

But seriously I feel your frustration and disgust with SeaDoo at this point. This is almost like the ceramic slip washer failures in the mid-2000 model SeaDoo's, a bad design that causes no end of frustration and expense to their customers to this day and they know the design has an unacceptable failure rate yet they (BRP) don't take any responsibility for it (I presume because nobody gets injured or dies because of the design defect). I feel the same way towards GM, especially after they told me in writing that they'd "misbuilt" my new dually truck intentionally (they had too many short wheelbase driver's side dually fenders on hand, so they decided to install them on the 2000 model long wheelbase dually's just to get rid of the excess stock... imagine my suprise when I realized that the driver's side dually fender was almost 6 inches SHORTER than the passenger's side!). These big companies just do not want to take care of their customers, they feel like they're too big to have to care I suppose. :(

ps. Why did sinking the wife's SeaDoo cause so much damage? Did the engine hydrolock or something?

- Michael
 
It does not look like Peyton10 will get back to this thread... would have been nice to know what hapened to his SeaDoo.
 
SeaDoo (aka BRP) This is almost like the ceramic slip washer failures in the mid-2000 model SeaDoo's, a bad design that causes no end of frustration and expense to their customers to this day and they know the design has an unacceptable failure rate yet they (BRP) don't take any responsibility for it

having many many hours on my seadoo, i actually was one of the first to blow up the SC, or so i was told. i blew up 2 superchargers and the only thing they had to say to me was "dont rev it out of the water". i didnt really, but sometimes it is unavoidable. the second time a ceramic washer found its way into the engine, blew the timing chain into 3 pieces, bent my valves, and i only had to pay labor for the rebuild. then later that season it sank, unsure of the reason why but apparently the part broke in the tech's hand while he was on the phone with me, and he called seadoo and had them warranty it.

my point here is, i have broken many things on my RXP. Seadoo has pretty much backed me up and helped me out every time. the people at my dealer actually joked that i should test the new product every year, because if there was a way to break it, i would find it.

now dont get me started on the dealer i took it to that TOLD ME they cleaned out the oil pan after the second supercharger blew, charged me for it, and i blew the engine with a new supercharger on it. those guys are idiots, and i caught them. (im not sure if theyre a sponsor here or not so :zipit:
 
Hi Guys, I just replied to a post about liking the IS...now I'm having second thoughts...I'm amazed. Micheal after reading most of your responses you appear very knowleagable about getting the bilge pumps installed. I definitely don't want to experience anything Peyton10 went through. Now I am not going anywhere without getting a bildge pump installed! I'm a newbie in the PWC arena so I have no idea where to start...are there any instructions on where to install the pump?
 
There's a round flat spot between the pump housing and the waterbox... mix up 2-part 15 minute epoxy, and use it (be generous!) to glue the pump base to that spot. The pump won't be able to suck the hull totally dry, but it'll get it down to within a quart or two of water (and keep you from sinking!). You can see from my earlier pics where I mounted the thru-hull fitting on my RXT. The bilge pump will come with instructions on wiring it... but I suggest running the Automatic wire directly to the battery (so it's always in auto mode, without having to activate any switches) and put a rocker switch in the front of the glove box for the manual wire (so you can check the pump operation at any time by switching it on and hearing it run). Put a inline fuse in the hot line to both the rocker switch and the auto wire (they can connect to the same fuse holder). It's easy really, just take your time... took me about 2 1/2 hours or so.

- Michael
 
You got lucky. First get full coverage because if you sink it, they will get you a new one for about 25$ a month.
 
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