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2009 GTX LTD iS 255 playing dead

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ABaculy

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Hey all,

I'm in a bit of a predicament with my ski. While my ski ran fine, I had some ibr codes which led me to replace the sensor. After replacing the sensor, the ski ran fine. The following day, I decided to put the front-end back together and clean some corrosion from the rear fuse boxes and fuses.

Currently, I get no beeps, no fuel pump, no gauges... no start-up checks or anything. It seems as if the ski doesn't know I'm trying to start it. All fuses are good and correct, and the contacts look clean now. The 30a relay was dirty, so I sanded that and it makes good contact.

I've done a lot of digging lately. I've checked for continuity on the DESS post wiring and that checks out with the key connected and is open with the key off. I've also checked both keys and they check out at about 2.5 ohms or so (far less than the 10 I've heard is bad). I'm going to pull the top off and try to check everything eventually, but I'm currently baffled by this, as it seems to have happened after I cleaned the connections... connections that were green and white with corrosion, but allowed the ski to run, and are now clean metal.

Any thoughts on where to go next? I'm considering buying a CanDooPro in desperation (and for convenience). I also plan to buy a premium membership here and access manuals and wiring diagrams. But in the mean time... any suggestions? Thanks!
 
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IBR codes are the first indication of a bad battery or connection. Get the battery load tested. It may be good enough for most components, but I have seen the IBR fail and go into Limp just because of voltage dropping into the 11 .5 range.
 
IBR codes are the first indication of a bad battery or connection. Get the battery load tested. It may be good enough for most components, but I have seen the IBR fail and go into Limp just because of voltage dropping into the 11 .5 range.

Thanks, I forgot to mention I actually ordered a battery. The only thing is, right now, I get nothing. No beeps, gauges, or fuel pump (even with a jumper battery attached or a fully charged battery, which wasn't a problem before).
 
After letting fuses sit out for a few hours, I put everything back together, with the black jumpers in first, and everything seems to work. Very odd. Now ibr light is off and only the OTAS light is on. I get P1550 and P2080. The P2080 is an exhaust temp code and is (probably) old because I have not started it today.

The P1550 is an OTAS code and that sensor was just replaced, so it must be something else.
 
I have the same model with a iBR u16a4 code with the iBR locked up it seems. Let me know if you can get the shop SERVICE manual here and if it covers how to remove/test these things, plus the cost, etc... Basically is it worth it. Thanks man and good luck.
 
I'd say it is worth joining. You can get the manual for 2010-2011 which is essentially the same. Plus, you get access to the premium forums.
 
I have the same model with a iBR u16a4 code with the iBR locked up it seems. Let me know if you can get the shop SERVICE manual here and if it covers how to remove/test these things, plus the cost, etc... Basically is it worth it. Thanks man and good luck.

The knowledge at this site is pretty well unmatched. The site does cost money to run. Joining helps keep it alive.
 
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