2007 GTI SE 130 - Basic maintenance Upkeep

[Shacho]

2007 GTI SE 130 - Basic maintenance Upkeep (Corroded Shaft)

I have read a lot of threads concerning the drive shaft/cone post maintenance/inspection. The manual states, "From underneath the hull, spray anticorrosion product through the intake grate all over the visible portion of drive shaft". The maintenance chart doesn't address the cone. Q: Should I be concern about pulling the cone to replace the grease/oil? My Sea Doo has only 68 hours and the majority of these hours were accumulated in fresh water.

 

[Shacho]

Today, I finally got a chance to inspect the drive shaft and I was somewhat shock to see the condition of the shaft since I only operated it in fresh water the pass summer. I can safely assume the previous owner operated it in saltwater only and neglected the drive shaft after each use. At the time of the initial purchase, I inspected everything and test rode it as well (the ski is/was in excellent condition) but I failed to inspect the drive shaft. Nevertheless, it's my rusty drive shaft now (LOL). I am going to do the maintenance myself as soon as it warm up a little. I just need to know the do's and don't when removing and replacing the shaft and any special tools required to complete the task. As you can see in one of the pictures, the shaft had rubbed against the outer housing (black) area. I'm thinking the drive support ring is worn and probably the drive shaft bearing. I'm guessing, I will need the drive shaft kit to complete this maintenance evolution. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[Shacho]

After further research, I have learned that the condition of my ski drive shaft is common, especially if operated in salt water a lot. I am going to attempted to clean as much rust off as possible for now.

 

[Steven Mace]

yeah wow.. crazy.. so anti corrosion stuff. wonder if inox or wd40 would be ok after each ride?

 

[Shacho]

Actually, the XPS anti-corrosion spray works (recommended). The previous owner neglected the drive shaft for x number of years. Nevertheless, I still would have purchase this ski had I discovered the condition of the shaft before completing the transaction. I couldn't walk away from a good deal.

 

[Steven Mace]

yeah its all good. get it on the wire wheel in the shed

 

[Shacho]

More like a wire brush and sandpaper. There isn't much space to work with but I should be able to remove a lot of it.

 

[Steven Mace]

pull it out man, buff it up on the bench.

 

[Shacho]

I had thought about pulling it out but wasn't sure of what's involve with removing the front end (PTO) if anything at all. I was leaning toward getting another shaft etc.. but I have read a lot of threads concerning rusty shafts and the corrosion conditions are normal and that it would not affect the ski performance. I know it's my decision and what I feel comfort with in the end. I did pull back the bellows (black boot) to see if the corrosion was in that area and it wasn't. Q: If I remove the impeller and the clamps at the front end, the shaft should be able to be remove with minimal resistant?

 

[Shacho]

Finally got around to removing the pump assembly to expose the drive shaft. I used sandpaper, Naval Jelly and a rust inhibitor to clean the shaft. In process of changing the wearing ring due to clearance exceeded the requirement per the manual. The freezer removal (wear ring) method did not work for me, I ended up cutting the ring. Also, just out of curiosity, I asked the local stealership what the cost to remove the wear ring if I bring in just the pump assembly and he said $300. Needless to say, I was speechless...

 

[devonte007]

Just came across your post. Sadly, I will admit that the drive shaft on my boat is somewhat rusty as well, only the exposed middle part. Taking the drive shaft out, cleaning the rust off and painting on some sort of anti-corrosion coating is on my list of things to do.

I typically take the jet pump off every 2 years and thoroughly inspect it, if I used the boat more often i may do this at the end of each season. I like to take the cone off and inspect the bearings, grease, etc., make sure all is well. This year I decided to remove the grease and run gear oil instead as I feel it will lubricate and cool the bearings better. Lots of opinions about this out there, so to each his own.

Back to the drive shaft...I have never removed one but from what I have read in the shop manual, after you remove the jet pump the only thing holding it in is the stainless steel ring and that c-clip. Remove the c-clip and it should slide right out. If I were to take the drive shaft out, before putting it back in I would at a minimum replace the o-rings in the SS ring, resurface the SS ring if needed, replace the carbon seal (depending on how it looked) and also replace the bellows. Most of that stuff is not very expensive and you might as well replace it all while you are in there.

 

[Shacho]

I hear you and I had considered taking the drive shaft out but after inspecting the support ring/PTO area, which had no signs of corrosion/rust, I decided to leave the shaft installed and support it while removing the rust. Also, I read that it would be difficult to pry the shaft back enough to remove/expose the c-clip without the drive shaft removal tool. As for the oil, I was leaning toward replacing the grease with oil but after further inspection, which revealed the bearing is being lubricated pretty good with the grease, I left well enough alone. Hopefully, the wear ring will arrive today and I can reinstall everything back together.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Great opportunity to look at and fix up all the other parts. I'd put in a new seal as you have it apart.

 

[Shacho]

I hear you Coastiejoe. I don't have all the tools required to support the removal of the drive shaft. I had inquired about how easy or difficult it would be to remove the shaft and was told that without that removal tool for the shaft, it would be difficult. What is your opinion on that?

 

[Shacho]

Quick questions concerning the wear ring. (1) How loose should a new wear ring be after installation? (2) What size mm should I ordered 155 or 159? My ski is an 07 GTI 130 SE, the specs indicates that both will fit my pump housing. I ordered a wear ring via the manual part number, however it is an aftermarket version (yellow in color). I don't think this aftermarket version is the right size even though the part number suggest that it is. This particular wear ring drop in without any resistant and it has back and forth movement and or play. With that being said, i know the gap measurements will not be accurate.

 

[red2blue]

Quick questions concerning the wear ring. (1) How loose should a new wear ring be after installation? (2) What size mm should I ordered 155 or 159? My ski is an 07 GTI 130 SE, the specs indicates that both will fit my pump housing. I ordered a wear ring via the manual part number, however it is an aftermarket version (yellow in color). I don't think this aftermarket version is the right size even though the part number suggest that it is. This particular wear ring drop in without any resistant and it has back and forth movement and or play. With that being said, i know the gap measurements will not be accurate.

Not sure why the freezer method didn't work for you. The whole reason for doing it is because the ring fits so tight. So...if your new one is loose...I'd agree that it is incorrect. OEM rings aren't expensive.

 

[Shacho]

I contacted the company and explained the scenario and they are sending another one. If second one doesn't fit properly, I will get the OEM version. Thanks for the info.

 

[Shacho]

FYI - installation is completed and I ended up going with the OEM version. Thanks for all the inputs. Next project (MOD) is swapping out the thumb throttle lever for a finger lever.