2006 Seadoo Speedster Build/Engine Swap help- Pics!!!

[ski-d00]

no, just look where the pin position is for the mag cup

 

[speedy steve]

 

[ski-d00]

still can't see the pin position, take the pic perfectly straight on. you should also rotate the crank about 10 degrees clockwise so that the timing marks align with the CB and crank

this is what we are trying to figure out

4-Tec Challenger 1800 /Tower /Challenger CS /Tower /GTI N/A 130 /GTI SE 2006-2017


2005 and earlier on left 2006 and newer on right

 

[speedy steve]

can’t seem to figure out how to align the timing mark with the crank bearing
Also just trying to turn the crank with a monkey wrench but after a full circle it seems to me it’s on the right

 

[ski-d00]

I can see the pin in your last picture at 3:00, now rotate crank so that the cb mark seen in your pic is perfectly aligned with the crankshaft so that it is at the 9:00 position. note that you won't actually be able to see it but the opening in the center of the cb will point right at the crankshaft. Once you do that, you will see the pin at the 7:00 position which means you have a newer crank which is consistent with a 2011 engine. However, that engine will never run with that pto cover you show in the pics with the pickup at 12:00 and was not on that engine. On closer evaluation, the gaskets are torn in different spots so that pto cover was not on that engine. It came from a different engine, a 2005 or older engine no doubt. You will either need to drill a hole in the mag cup encoder wheel or get a newer style pto housing. If you don't want to drill a new hole, you can remove the pin and just move the encoder wheel 2 bolt holes. I think drilling is easier and takes 5 minutes. You will need new mag bolts though because they are stretch bolts.

 

[speedy steve]

The gaskets actually line up perfectly
i tried to mirror the pics so you can see
i cleaned up a little the gaskets after

 

[ski-d00]

No, they don't. There is the same gasket on both sides. On the top picture, look at the large gasket area on the bottom right. On the bottom picture, this should be missing completely but it is also there in the exact same spot. No way that pto cover came off that motor.

 

[speedy steve]

It’s like super paper thin on the pto cover I’m 99 percent sure it came from this engine when you look at both in person it matches almost 100 percent
Can gaskets split?

 

[ski-d00]

I'm 100% sure it didn't. I can see the gasket including the printing on the engine side just below the cb and on the pto side I see the exact same gasket which is 100% impossible. I've taken hundreds of these motors apart and those gaskets tear randomly and you definitely don't have a mating gasket on both sides. I've helped all I can, good luck with the motor.

 

[speedy steve]

I'm 100% sure it didn't. I can see the gasket including the printing on the engine side just below the cb and on the pto side I see the exact same gasket which is 100% impossible. I've taken hundreds of these motors apart and those gaskets tear randomly and you definitely don't have a mating gasket on both sides. I've helped all I can, good luck with the motor.

I appreciate the help

I’ll prob give the motor back to the guy and try to find one that fits as I’m definitely not skilled enough to drill holes

any help on which years will be a better fit? I tried to look for a newer motor because I didn’t want the hollow valve stems that’s what caused this motor to blow

 

[ski-d00]

The motor is fine. You should be using a newer motor since they are definitely better. Remove the 6 bolts to the mag cup and remove the encoder wheel. All you are doing is drilling a hole so the pin will clear by moving it 2 bolt holes clockwise. It doesn't have to be a precise hole at all since the 6 bolts are actually doing the alignment.

 

[speedy steve]

Those six bolts I’ll prob need new ones though right ?
I remember reading that they’re stretch bolts
Which pin am I trying to clear?
Do you happen to have any pics from any of them that you’ve done?

 

[ski-d00]

Yes, I told you a few posts ago that you will need new ones since they are stretch bolts. Once you remove the 6 bolts you will see the pin. Look at the pic I posted above that shows the pins on the older and newer cranks.

 

[speedy steve]

It’s what they’re calling the locating pin that little circle?
so the rest of it is behind?
I guess I’ll pull tomorrow after work and take a look

 

[speedy steve]

And the saga continues

I ended up swapping the 2011 motor for a 2005 motor with a date 06/2005 this way everything lines up in my boat
2011 was a saltwater use motor and even though @ski-d00 really helped out explaining how to drill a hole to line everything up I did not feel confident enough to do that and when I was there the guy had an 07 motor as well that he was willing to give me with the full PTO and everything but I wasn't sure if I can hook up that with my existing "accessories"

The motor was super super clean in and out tried to inspect the valves as best as I could they all looked great not a spot of rust or anything also hooked it up to a starter and cranked over great with nice even compression

I bought the oil pump rebuild kits from WSM going to do that on both oil pumps front and back before I transfer those over

looking at the plugs( I attached a pic again) it looks like my previous motor had a fuel issue and the coolant tank was empty

My thought process is it probably ran too lean and blew the head gasket which caused a valve to drop

though I'm no expert would love to hear if anyone has any other theory

I saw some videos of people hooking up the injectors to a 9-volt battery and spraying them with carb cleaner going to do that and I'm going to make sure fuel pressure is good anyone knows of anything else specific to look out for on the fuel system?