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2006 RXT 36hr. No power on water. Limp Mode?

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AircraftDoc

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Just picked up a rxt. Used. Tried out in the water to check it out. SC will be replaced. The Rxt would not plane. Perhaps it went into limp mode. After replacement of the SC and Tuneup and oil change, will the limp mode reset? What was the after market B.o.s.s. Code reader etc?? Who do we have forum discount parts with??:cool:
 
If it is in limp mode then you will have a fault code. Figuring out that code by pressing the MODE button 5 times is a good place to start. If it isn't showing a code then theres a different problem. If it is just revving fine but not going anywhere there's something wrong in the pump (debris, wear ring, bent impeller or a combo of any mentioned).
 
Need a little more info like what's the rpm it will hit, any error messages on LCD, does it run smoothly in/out of water? Pressing set 5 times while running with the error code displayed will give you the fault code. Fault codes will go from active to an occurrence once the problem is corrected. It doesn't sound like a sc problem. Limp mode is triggered from a fault code and the problem must be corrected but you don't need BUDS(the dealer software that is activated and updated through BOSSWEB) to clear codes.
 
Just picked up a rxt. Used. Tried out in the water to check it out. SC will be replaced. The Rxt would not plane. Perhaps it went into limp mode. After replacement of the SC and Tuneup and oil change, will the limp mode reset? What was the after market B.o.s.s. Code reader etc?? Who do we have forum discount parts with??:cool:

whoa....whoa...whoa......you tried it out after you bought it?

:facepalm:
 
This must be the cheap model. No Mode or VTS. Just Start/Stop bottom.
Ran fine on trailer. Put in the water, let warm up for a few. Started slowly, then just as it was just about to plane it reduced its RPM. Ran about 6 mph. It would cut back if I tried any faster. Put back on the trailer and pulled the seats. Ran rough and lot of vibration from the SC. Pull the plugs. #3 had rust. #1 was moist with oil. Apparently, not winterization or care.
Now. I soaked the cylinders with oil for a couple of days Turning it over. Ran it to warm it up to change the oil and filter. The filter had shiny little flakes. This could be the original oil filter. Would this be normal on a 10 oil break in change? I will check if these are metal with a magnet tomorrow when the filter dries out. No warnings other than normal beeps.
Helpful opinions, please?
 
This must be the cheap model. No Mode or VTS. Just Start/Stop bottom.
Ran fine on trailer. Put in the water, let warm up for a few. Started slowly, then just as it was just about to plane it reduced its RPM. Ran about 6 mph. It would cut back if I tried any faster. Put back on the trailer and pulled the seats. Ran rough and lot of vibration from the SC. Pull the plugs. #3 had rust. #1 was moist with oil. Apparently, not winterization or care.
Now. I soaked the cylinders with oil for a couple of days Turning it over. Ran it to warm it up to change the oil and filter. The filter had shiny little flakes. This could be the original oil filter. Would this be normal on a 10 oil break in change? I will check if these are metal with a magnet tomorrow when the filter dries out. No warnings other than normal beeps.
Helpful opinions, please?

Okay...whew...first things first.

Don't run it any more.

With motor off...pull the air intake off the sc and try to spin the wheel with your finger. Check the oil...looking for "milky" condition.

No vts on a rxt.
 
Okay...whew...first things first.

Don't run it any more.

With motor off...pull the air intake off the sc and try to spin the wheel with your finger. Check the oil...looking for "milky" condition.

No vts on a rxt.

Oil a little darker than clear brown. Did the spin with the finger on the SC. I can't move the impeller. I will pull the sc anyway. Check for ceramic washers and any wobble. Can always put it back. Replaced the SC on my RXP already. No Mode Button, just Start/Stop.
 
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Fouled plugs? And, I'd compression test. I've seen metal in 1st filter of new motors, the latest one was Toyota.

Yea, I thinking more and more spark plugs and sea doo sitting too long. Put in fresh 91 octane it had half gal of old. Doing compression next and pulling SC for inspection. Reminds me of an old dirty trick of using a lead pencil and marking from base to the wire end on the spark plug. The engine loses power under full load, but will idle.
 
Yea, I thinking more and more spark plugs and sea doo sitting too long. Put in fresh 91 octane it had half gal of old. Doing compression next and pulling SC for inspection. Reminds me of an old dirty trick of using a lead pencil and marking from base to the wire end on the spark plug. The engine loses power under full load, but will idle.

Yeah, I always freak out when I see metal in an oil filter element. Hopefully that SC isn't broken, dunno why those don't have their own reservoir instead of sharing engine oil, not like it's a turbo. Might hang an oil pressure gauge on the oil galley and see what pressure looks like once the oil's hot. Damaged bearings often show up as a pulse/flutter on the gauge while idling hot, should be steady smooth and near spec pressure.

Idle is probably the easiest to fire plugs, ignition misfiring usually shows up under power b/c plug voltage has to rise higher before jumping the gap.

But it sat for a long time, so an injector may be partially clogged as well, maybe the one nearest the end of the fuel rail where trash tends to linger.
 
No need to pull the sc if the impeller doesn't spin, at least not yet, and sounds like it is working fine. Let's get it running properly first.

The 06 was the first year for the new LCD that had all the info on it so there are no mode and set buttons. Not the cheap model at all and RXT never had VTS, only the rxp in those years.

Small pieces of metal in the oil filter is very normal, most 4tecs will have a little bit and is fine as long as there isn't too many and this is not just on the first oil change.

Put new gas in it, change the plugs, and try it again. SeaDoo fuel injectors are very good at clearing themselves once good fuel gets to them. I'll bet it runs fine this time.
 
No need to pull the sc if the impeller doesn't spin, at least not yet, and sounds like it is working fine. Let's get it running properly first.

The 06 was the first year for the new LCD that had all the info on it so there are no mode and set buttons. Not the cheap model at all and RXT never had VTS, only the rxp in those years.

Small pieces of metal in the oil filter is very normal, most 4tecs will have a little bit and is fine as long as there isn't too many and this is not just on the first oil change.

Put new gas in it, change the plugs, and try it again. SeaDoo fuel injectors are very good at clearing themselves once good fuel gets to them. I'll bet it runs fine this time.

Great info. Thank you.
I did go ahead and pulled the SC. The mounting bolts (3) are 8mm heads, unlike the star head. Two of the bolts were not tight and none had any Loc-Tight. The inserted housing had aluminum smoke (two pieces of aluminum rub) around the two o-rings. There is the noise and vibration that I observed. The bushing are worn. I get play up and down. Never had that on the RXP's SC when I replaced it. It has the ceramic washers, so it wasn't rebuilt. So, replacing the SC. Will do compression check tomorrow morning. I will replace the plugs.. I have a spark plug (at 140psi) tester, so I can check the old ones. Narrows down some symptoms.
 
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Compression test results

Cold
#3. 128. #2. 135. #1. 138
Cold with sea perser oil
#3. 140. #2. 140. #1. 140
Plus or Minus for gauge accuracy
 
compression is fine.

somebody messed with the sc in the past and did a poor job it sounds like. it should have the torx bolt heads like everything else and should have Loctite and not have any wiggle which probably didn't do your sc bearings any favors.

I wouldn't worry about testing the spark plugs, they can act pretty flaky where that act fine one minute and then cut out the next and then act fine the rest of the day, just change them.
 
compression is fine.

somebody messed with the sc in the past and did a poor job it sounds like. it should have the torx bolt heads like everything else and should have Loctite and not have any wiggle which probably didn't do your sc bearings any favors.

I wouldn't worry about testing the spark plugs, they can act pretty flaky where that act fine one minute and then cut out the next and then act fine the rest of the day, just change them.

Thank you. Great information.

I though I would test the plug for sh*ts and giggles. Replacing anyway.
 
If someone messed with the supercharger, might of they messed with the injectors?? I am going to compare the new SC with the one I pulled off. What should I look for if someone messed with the injectors?
 
If someone messed with the supercharger, might of they messed with the injectors?? I am going to compare the new SC with the one I pulled off. What should I look for if someone messed with the injectors?

They should be 38#r's. If you got fresh gas..and still got probs...check the fuel pump in tank...check the fuel rail...check flow of injectors.
 
Update:
Ran on fresh water. After replacing spark plugs and SC, it works great.

The pump cavities, but that is for another post.

Got a exhaust P1544 code doing donuts. Idled straight for 10 seconds then it went away. It did it one more time. I rode around for half hour, then did donuts, and could not get it to code again-exhaust over temp. Must have been an air pocket.
 
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