Hi my ski has 90 hours on it and suddenly developed a miss. Took to dealer and they replaced plugs. (Had been replaced 32 hours before at service) Put the ski back on the water and went ok for 15 mins then done exact the same as before. Drained the tank to half full and added an injector cleaner and ran on a hose at home for 20 mins. Went and put back in water and went good for ten mins and then missed again. ANY IDEAS ??????
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2006 GTI SE fuel problem?
- Thread starter fatrat
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ok injector cleaner is a wast of time. Pull the separator and dump the gas out of it and fill it with fresh gas.Than re-fresh the fuel in the separator and fire it up...it should resolve the problem.
Welcome Fatrat!....
Welcome to the forum Fatrat!...........glad to hear from you. Lets look at the problem in a different light.
In the naturally aspirated 1503 4-TEC engine, there are several sensors that make your engine perform properly. It seems strange that when you took it to the shop, that you’d get it back with the same problem. If the shop used the V.C.K. (vehicle communication kit) along with B.U.D.S. ( Bombardier utility diagnostic system) software, when they hooked it up to the computer, they should have been able to find out if one of your several sensors (14 in all, I think) may be bad, sending a faulty signal to the Engine Management System. For instance, if the throttle position sensor was defective, then the ECU (engine control unit) wouldn’t provide the proper control change requests to the MPEM (multipurpose electronic module) that sends out all the adjustments to fuel flow, timing, ignition, etc…
This engine records all these “blips” in the mpem and the shop mechanic should have seen, by graph, the conditions under which the PWC has been running.
In my opinion, it may be an individual injector, which doesn’t make any sense because as a mechanic, that should have been the first thing he checked. Or its possible the CPS (crankshaft position sensor) isn’t sending the correct information, which would be telling the ignition system that it’s just not ready to ignite at this moment, which in real time would be milliseconds.
This engine has to be serviced by mechanics who are capable and certified to use the B.U.D.S. equipment to diagnose and keep your engine running at optimum performance. Do not take these engines to some off the wall marine mechanics, they need to be serviced by certified Sea-Doo mechanics. I can’t say that enough. Remember, anyone will take your money, but not all of them can truly find your problem. :cheers:
Welcome to the forum Fatrat!...........glad to hear from you. Lets look at the problem in a different light.
In the naturally aspirated 1503 4-TEC engine, there are several sensors that make your engine perform properly. It seems strange that when you took it to the shop, that you’d get it back with the same problem. If the shop used the V.C.K. (vehicle communication kit) along with B.U.D.S. ( Bombardier utility diagnostic system) software, when they hooked it up to the computer, they should have been able to find out if one of your several sensors (14 in all, I think) may be bad, sending a faulty signal to the Engine Management System. For instance, if the throttle position sensor was defective, then the ECU (engine control unit) wouldn’t provide the proper control change requests to the MPEM (multipurpose electronic module) that sends out all the adjustments to fuel flow, timing, ignition, etc…
This engine records all these “blips” in the mpem and the shop mechanic should have seen, by graph, the conditions under which the PWC has been running.
In my opinion, it may be an individual injector, which doesn’t make any sense because as a mechanic, that should have been the first thing he checked. Or its possible the CPS (crankshaft position sensor) isn’t sending the correct information, which would be telling the ignition system that it’s just not ready to ignite at this moment, which in real time would be milliseconds.
This engine has to be serviced by mechanics who are capable and certified to use the B.U.D.S. equipment to diagnose and keep your engine running at optimum performance. Do not take these engines to some off the wall marine mechanics, they need to be serviced by certified Sea-Doo mechanics. I can’t say that enough. Remember, anyone will take your money, but not all of them can truly find your problem. :cheers:
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Seadoo 2006 GTI SE
Hi thanks for the advice tried draining all the fuel out of tank then put 15 litres of premium high octane fuel and some injector cleaner as well. Did the same as before went good for 6-7 minutes then just started missing again. It makes me think that that each time I try something it goes ok for the first 5-10 mins then develops the miss again so maybe leading to an electrical problem instead of fuel now that I think I have tried different things with the fuel. ANY IDEAS NOW ?????
Hi thanks for the advice tried draining all the fuel out of tank then put 15 litres of premium high octane fuel and some injector cleaner as well. Did the same as before went good for 6-7 minutes then just started missing again. It makes me think that that each time I try something it goes ok for the first 5-10 mins then develops the miss again so maybe leading to an electrical problem instead of fuel now that I think I have tried different things with the fuel. ANY IDEAS NOW ?????
Sensors?....
Did you read the last two post by me and DAWG?......they would help to point you in another direction.
Are you getting any error codes or any other sign that there's a problem. I have a couple ideas, since you haven't given much more in the diagnostics of what's happening to your "engine miss" in your post. I don't think it's a fuel problem. If you had a bad injector, then it would be bad from the time you started. It would not let you run for 5 minutes and then let you start to mis-fire.
I think you may have a issue with something in your engine that's guarded by your EMS and ECM.....For example, if your MAPS (manifold air pressure) sensor isn't reading the desired are pressure that is needed according to the EMS, then the end result would be for the ECM to limit the rpm's by the rev limiter, for the amount ot air pressure that the sensor says the induction are system is only capable of delievering, from maybe some type of mechanical problem or dirty air system or what ever. My point is, to control engine rpm's, the rpm limiter shorts out one or more of your ignition (spark plug) wires to keep you from going past a certain limit and doing damage to your engine.
Af first, I though you may have a neutral switch, like on my boat, that limits rpm (by the rev limiter) to keep from shifting gears from neutral to either forward or reverse with to much power, to keep from throwing someone out of the boat. But I don't see that switch on your Doo..........so I'm left with thinking you have a sensor problem. If you read the above post, you'll realize that, like I said, any marine shop will take it in and take your money, but if there not certified by Sea-Doo to work on your 4-TEC and they don't have B.U.D.S. or the capability to hook up your computer system with a V.C.K., then your throwing your money into the wind...........
Let us know next time, when you get this miss........what are the rpms? Is it the same rpm every time your being limited? Does the info center have any information in it? Without any further help from you, I'm limited as to what I've written.
You can become a Premium member and search these manuals yourself and see what you can come up with but your engine isn't like any engine on the market today or from the past. You could equate this new 1503 4-TEC with the high advanced engines in the new Corvettes!...........
Did you read the last two post by me and DAWG?......they would help to point you in another direction.
Are you getting any error codes or any other sign that there's a problem. I have a couple ideas, since you haven't given much more in the diagnostics of what's happening to your "engine miss" in your post. I don't think it's a fuel problem. If you had a bad injector, then it would be bad from the time you started. It would not let you run for 5 minutes and then let you start to mis-fire.
I think you may have a issue with something in your engine that's guarded by your EMS and ECM.....For example, if your MAPS (manifold air pressure) sensor isn't reading the desired are pressure that is needed according to the EMS, then the end result would be for the ECM to limit the rpm's by the rev limiter, for the amount ot air pressure that the sensor says the induction are system is only capable of delievering, from maybe some type of mechanical problem or dirty air system or what ever. My point is, to control engine rpm's, the rpm limiter shorts out one or more of your ignition (spark plug) wires to keep you from going past a certain limit and doing damage to your engine.
Af first, I though you may have a neutral switch, like on my boat, that limits rpm (by the rev limiter) to keep from shifting gears from neutral to either forward or reverse with to much power, to keep from throwing someone out of the boat. But I don't see that switch on your Doo..........so I'm left with thinking you have a sensor problem. If you read the above post, you'll realize that, like I said, any marine shop will take it in and take your money, but if there not certified by Sea-Doo to work on your 4-TEC and they don't have B.U.D.S. or the capability to hook up your computer system with a V.C.K., then your throwing your money into the wind...........
Let us know next time, when you get this miss........what are the rpms? Is it the same rpm every time your being limited? Does the info center have any information in it? Without any further help from you, I'm limited as to what I've written.
You can become a Premium member and search these manuals yourself and see what you can come up with but your engine isn't like any engine on the market today or from the past. You could equate this new 1503 4-TEC with the high advanced engines in the new Corvettes!...........
Seadoo 2006
Hi again thanks seadoosnipe I am sorry I forgot to mention that there is no alarms coming up on the dashboard. It is booked in to go to another certified seadoo shop in 3 days but I am just trying to get some more ideas. I am going to put it in the water today or tomorrow and see how it goes from cold and see how long it takes to develop the fault again and then put it on the trailer and then let it cool down and start again and see what happens. Thanks for your advice I will advise further when I try this next move:cheers:
Hi again thanks seadoosnipe I am sorry I forgot to mention that there is no alarms coming up on the dashboard. It is booked in to go to another certified seadoo shop in 3 days but I am just trying to get some more ideas. I am going to put it in the water today or tomorrow and see how it goes from cold and see how long it takes to develop the fault again and then put it on the trailer and then let it cool down and start again and see what happens. Thanks for your advice I will advise further when I try this next move:cheers:
Solved
Hi just to let you know I have fixed the problem and I was way off the mark with the fuel. It turned out that the rubber boots around the ignition coils were perished and they were letting moisture into the spark plug area which meant shorting out and therefore the miss. Unfortunately SeaDoo dont sell the boots by themselves and you have to buy the ignition coil with so at $200 (Australian) each they are very expensive. I put the new coils into it and it hasnt missed a beat. Something to look at when you wash your engine is the boots around your coils as I found out the expensive way.
Cheers fatrat
Hi just to let you know I have fixed the problem and I was way off the mark with the fuel. It turned out that the rubber boots around the ignition coils were perished and they were letting moisture into the spark plug area which meant shorting out and therefore the miss. Unfortunately SeaDoo dont sell the boots by themselves and you have to buy the ignition coil with so at $200 (Australian) each they are very expensive. I put the new coils into it and it hasnt missed a beat. Something to look at when you wash your engine is the boots around your coils as I found out the expensive way.
Cheers fatrat
Great....
Well, that's great to hear. I will put this solution in my "unusual" category, because when it happens to one type product, it's bound to happen to someone else.
Thanks for your reply and great to hear your back on the water!....:hurray:
Well, that's great to hear. I will put this solution in my "unusual" category, because when it happens to one type product, it's bound to happen to someone else.
Thanks for your reply and great to hear your back on the water!....:hurray:
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