2005 RXT Service / Problem

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Sorry! I do all my own maintenance on my jeep except for atf but these 4-tec seadoos always made me nervous. At least I did the solenoid myself and will be doing my own tuneups from now on. Is the sc pretty easy to pull? I just hate the thought of messing something up.


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I'm thinking I'll address the washers this offseason. I haven't even used my skiis yet so I just ordered the seadoo maintenance kit for $65 shipped. I'll tune 'em up and look into the washers soon. I only plan to but 5-8 hours on it this year and I'm at 64 now so I'll be under 75 hours for sure. What is the best method for rebuilding the supercharger? Dealership?


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I haven't tackled one yet personally, but I have the manual for the 05 RXT and plan to be doing one this winter on the one I maintain if they decide to keep it. You can look up the service (not owners) manual online and download it or pm me with your email and I'll mail you a copy. depending on how mechanically inclined you are you can look it over and decide if it is something you are comfortable doing.
 
red2blue... what is the 08' upgrade for these? is it the metal washers or did they change something else as well?

I believe that means getting it rebuilt and using metal washers as part of the rebuild. I'm going to try to pull it myself, if it's too much, I can always take it somewhere but I read the writeup on greenhulk and it seems involved but straightforward.


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red2blue... what is the 08' upgrade for these? is it the metal washers or did they change something else as well?

Yeah...sorry..showing my age there. In '08 BRP came out with "upgraded" metal washers for that years' model. They didn't admit any mistake with the previous years' ceramics....chiknshtfckheads that they are....anyway...when the repair kit for the '08s came out and were usuable on previous models...we called them the '08 upgrade rebuild kit.

Also in '08...there is what appears to be an additional oil port on the shaft which seams to feed more oil to the bearings....I've heard conflicting reports on the actual use of that port....so...can't comment any more on it...without sounding like I'm pulling the facts outa my three point contact.

Anyway...I've got the '08 upgrade rebuild kit in my S3 converted sc....couldn't be happier. Outstanding service and very fast turn around from Jerry.
 
Yeah...sorry..showing my age there. In '08 BRP came out with "upgraded" metal washers for that years' model. They didn't admit any mistake with the previous years' ceramics....chiknshtfckheads that they are....anyway...when the repair kit for the '08s came out and were usuable on previous models...we called them the '08 upgrade rebuild kit.

Also in '08...there is what appears to be an additional oil port on the shaft which seams to feed more oil to the bearings....I've heard conflicting reports on the actual use of that port....so...can't comment any more on it...without sounding like I'm pulling the facts outa my three point contact.

Anyway...I've got the '08 upgrade rebuild kit in my S3 converted sc....couldn't be happier. Outstanding service and very fast turn around from Jerry.

Ok, I thought that's what you meant.
 
Well I was reading through the forum when I had an "oh sh#t moment." You are supposed to run the ski, then turn on the hose, shut off hose, then shut off ski. I have been doing the opposite where water would run when the ski is off. Upon reading this I bolted outside, re hooked up my semi functional starter solenoid sincd my new one is still in transit and fired it up. Fortunately, all is well and hopefully my heart rate goes back down in the next hour. I never realized water could build up since it still flows out even when the ski is off. Evidentially I was wrong. I am changing oil and plugs anyway as my late start of season maintenance. I still haven't been out on the lake yet this year. Just needed to vent that one.


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Well I was reading through the forum when I had an "oh sh#t moment." You are supposed to run the ski, then turn on the hose, shut off hose, then shut off ski. I have been doing the opposite where water would run when the ski is off. Upon reading this I bolted outside, re hooked up my semi functional starter solenoid sincd my new one is still in transit and fired it up. Fortunately, all is well and hopefully my heart rate goes back down in the next hour. I never realized water could build up since it still flows out even when the ski is off. Evidentially I was wrong. I am changing oil and plugs anyway as my late start of season maintenance. I still haven't been out on the lake yet this year. Just needed to vent that one.


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Yeah that'll make you have to change your shorts! The pressure from a hose CAN press water passed the exhaust gasket and flood your engine. It doesn't always happen, but the chance of it requires caution int he procedure. That is one reason I picked up the flushing quick connect valves. Install the male end on the ski, the female on the hose and it makes hook up a snap. The female end has a shutoff valve so you don't have to run abck and forth to the spigot. Start the ski, reach back open the valve, after you're done shut the valve off, shut down the ski. Simple and sweet. A good investment!
 
Sorry! I do all my own maintenance on my jeep except for atf but these 4-tec seadoos always made me nervous. At least I did the solenoid myself and will be doing my own tuneups from now on. Is the sc pretty easy to pull? I just hate the thought of messing something up.


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Getting the bungies off and returned in place on the water box will be your biggest challenge. I use a small...7" long pry/flat bar....like a miniature crow bar...sorta...used to pull wood trim offa walls and such. The flat end has a v groove...supposed to get around nails...anyway...use this end to push down on the metal wire clip allowing the bungie to spring free. same thing will allow you to reconnect whan all is finished.

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...C7CC554F74C9AE3ACEC7B48A8230A447BB0CC&first=1

the smallest one is what I use...saves your hands.
 
Getting the bungies off and returned in place on the water box will be your biggest challenge. I use a small...7" long pry/flat bar....like a miniature crow bar...sorta...used to pull wood trim offa walls and such. The flat end has a v groove...supposed to get around nails...anyway...use this end to push down on the metal wire clip allowing the bungie to spring free. same thing will allow you to reconnect whan all is finished.

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...C7CC554F74C9AE3ACEC7B48A8230A447BB0CC&first=1

the smallest one is what I use...saves your hands.

The link didn't work but the advice is much appreciated.


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http://www.ceramicwashersettlement.com/Home.aspx

Anyone hear about this one? It says on there that it's only for units purchased in California??
On the same but other side of this topic... Why are washers 100 bucks?? My 05 is also around the same hour mark and I m worried about those ceramics......

Metal washer replacements... http://www.ebay.com/itm/SeaDoo-Wake..._Watercraft_Parts&hash=item564b57f44e&vxp=mtr

Just doesn't have the rest of the parts for a full rebuild like the kits have.
 
Well I've had a couple great Lake Erie runs in both Cleveland and Sandusky and I'm now just a nudge under 70 hrs. The supercharger rebuild looms.


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Well I've had a couple great Lake Erie runs in both Cleveland and Sandusky and I'm now just a nudge under 70 hrs. The supercharger rebuild looms.

You don't need to rebuild the entire supercharger to change the ceramic washers out with the steel upgrades... it takes about 3 hours max (most time spent pulling and reinstalling the SC in fact), and costs about $100 max (for steel washer upgrades with SC tool kit). While the ceramic washers will probably hold on till 100 hrs (or a little longer even.... some people who didn't know any better have run them up past 150 hrs or more before their sc fell apart!), you are playing Russian Roulette with the things. If they fail and fall apart, you are screwed... is it worth it? You can do it in 1 afternoon under a shadetree for ~$100, is this a no-brainer or what?

For a full supercharger rebuild (which is still required on your year model's sc every 100 hrs of operation!), pull the sc and mail it to Jerry at Greenhulk and let him rebuild it he has all the tools and the experience needed to do it right. You can do the grunt work of pulling the sc out and putting it back into the motor when you get it back from Jerry.

Regards!

- Michael
 
You don't need to rebuild the entire supercharger to change the ceramic washers out with the steel upgrades... it takes about 3 hours max (most time spent pulling and reinstalling the SC in fact), and costs about $100 max (for steel washer upgrades with SC tool kit). While the ceramic washers will probably hold on till 100 hrs (or a little longer even.... some people who didn't know any better have run them up past 150 hrs or more before their sc fell apart!), you are playing Russian Roulette with the things. If they fail and fall apart, you are screwed... is it worth it? You can do it in 1 afternoon under a shadetree for ~$100, is this a no-brainer or what?

For a full supercharger rebuild (which is still required on your year model's sc every 100 hrs of operation!), pull the sc and mail it to Jerry at Greenhulk and let him rebuild it he has all the tools and the experience needed to do it right. You can do the grunt work of pulling the sc out and putting it back into the motor when you get it back from Jerry.

Regards!

- Michael

My plan is to pull it this winter and send it to Jerry. I don't want to pull it and just replace washers only to have to rebuild it in 30 hrs. I'll just have Jerry do my 100 hr rebuild a little early.


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