I tightened the impeller's acorn nut 1st, which was as per the order of the instructions.
I confirmed this morning with an led flashlight that the oiler hole thru the center of the kit shaft does indeed go to the hole in the side of the shaft where the needle bearings rode inside the drive gear so they should have been able to get lubed by engine oil (but maybe not immediately, as they'd have to be turning on the shaft for oil to get into them?). I'm guessing they burned up before engine oil could get in to them enough to lube all of them? The needles were oily when I took this all back apart during the "autopsy" Saturday.
Something else I notice that's strange, putting all the kit parts back together on the SC shaft this morning I hand tightened the end nut to snug and cannot turn the drive gear easily now... but Saturday upon pulling the SC out of the engine I immediately noticed how the drive gear was loose (though no gap between the slip washers and the drive gear) and could be easily spun by fingertip, even though the spring washers were too tight to turn and the end nut was exactly where it was supposed to be (ie. plenty of threads sticking out the end). So why was that drive gear loose Saturday with the end nut on tight and spring washers clearly too tight to turn by hand, but today with the end nut just hand tightened (ie. no threads at all showing out the end) the drive gear will barely slip at all? Weird, this is!
I'm befuddled, to say the least.
- Michael
dcm0123,
I did the slip test with a torque wrench before I installed the SC though... and it fell well within specs! What's confusing is that when I removed it last Saturday the drive gear would spin easily it was like it had no pressure on it at all, though the spring washers were compressed and I specifically tried to rotate them by fingers and they were tight. BOTH nuts had loctite on them, red on the open-end nut and blue on the acorn nut... and both nuts were good and TIGHT Saturday after removing the SC! I had to heat the open-end nut to release the red loctite in fact. Here is a pic of it all together, taken just after I'd pulled it out of the engine Saturday, showing clearly the compressed spring washers and threads exposed beyond the open-ended nut:
View attachment 32985
In that pic, I could spin the drive gear easily and could tell it had needle bearings in it still but lots of slop on the shaft. I could not rotate the spring washers though, they were tight. What was holding the tension off the slip washers and drive gear, I do not know.
Today when I put the open-end nut back on and tightened it up by finger pressure I was surprised to find I could not easily turn the drive gear (with all the parts back on and in correct order again).
I'm leaning towards the apparent fact that the needle bearings did not come pre-lubed in their plastic carrier, and the instructions in this kit did not make any mention of lubing them but instead instructed to install the needle bearings using their plastic case (hard to explain it, but following the instructions I never once touched any of the needle bearings and they were never exposed so I could have put lube on them... the plastic case parts pushed off as the bearings were pushed into the gear and then onto the shaft). I think they burned up as a result... I think, at least, that's what caused the failure of my 1st SC rebuild attempt.
Thanks and I appreciate the ideas! If you see anything wrong in my pic please let me know!
- Michael
I just bought the brand new latest for both of my skis after a failed rebuild. Plus the newer ones go two hundred hours.
There are two different oiling systems for the superchargers, 08 and newer have the oil feed positioned so it squirts oil down the center of the S/C shaft and the oil is then flung out between the gear and the washers providing postive lubrication to the needle bearings and slip washers. The older system has a sprayer that squirts oil on the exterior of the gear and washers but does not provide great oil flow to the needle bearings. All of the S/C rebuild kits have the hollow shaft so they can be used on any model.
Yours being an 06 has the older set up so if the needle bearings were not lubed on install this may have caused the problem. The older models can be retrofitted with the 08 oiler system the rear PTO has to come off which can be done in the hull but it's a PITA and much easier done with the engine out.
Yeah but I've read that's just an arbitrary decision that was made and has nothing to do with any design change or change in materials in the kits themselves. I've read some rebuilders still insist they need to be rebuilt every 100 hrs even with these newest kits. IDK.
You have my RXT!Yeah, nan nan!
Uhhm, since looks like I may be in the market for another SC kit, where did you get yours from? How was the parts fit and instructions in the kits? How long have you run them so far?
The latest is heavier duty. Newer oil port, upgraded shaft and housing. I beat my local dealer down to Internet prices plus taxes. $775. Fit nice and tight. I pre oiled before installed and blue loctite a must. Hours of worry free riding, 40 hrs so far. Stay below 5,000 rpms for an hour for a little break in time.
Doc
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Got the parts in, now I can get started!
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