2005 rxt 215 taking on water

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Weaver2525

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Hey guys I just bought a 2005 rxt 215 with 90 hours on it. Finally got it in the water today and it didn’t go as planned. It ran good for about 20 minutes it topped out at 56 mph at 8200 rpms. But about a half hour in it only was making it to 7500 rpms and didn’t sound right. So I went back in and it had about 40-50 gallons of water on the hull, almost to the top of the battery. I drained it and then put some water in it and raised it up. It came out of where the shaft comes out of the hull. What parts do I need to fix that and what exactly does it entail. Sorry for the rant but I’m not to happy with this buy so far, hoping it’s a simple fix. Hope I could find some help here.
 
No you have to take off the pump, there are some specialized tools to push the hat ring back far enough to get the circlip back in. Youtube has some videos on how to do it, or take it to the dealer.
 
No you have to take off the pump, there are some specialized tools to push the hat ring back far enough to get the circlip back in. Youtube has some videos on how to do it, or take it to the dealer.
Ok thanks I’m going to look into costs both ways then.
 
I found the carbon seal and bellows, I think I am going to try it myself. Watched some videos on it and doesn’t seem to bad.
 
Videos are great provided the person filming it is doing it correctly. Download your service manual at seadoomanuals.net While you're at it; when was the last time the jet pump was rebuilt? Front grease seal is supposed to be changed every 5 years, bearing inspected, and packed w/ fresh grease.

Remember, there's always time to do it right the second time.
 
Videos are great provided the person filming it is doing it correctly. Download your service manual at seadoomanuals.net While you're at it; when was the last time the jet pump was rebuilt? Front grease seal is supposed to be changed every 5 years, bearing inspected, and packed w/ fresh grease.

Remember, there's always time to do it right the second time.
Lol you got that right. The last owner said the wear ring was changed a few hours ago so I’m thinking that’s fine. I guess once I get everything apart I’m have to see is anything else needs work. I have good synthetic grease, do I need somefyhing special or is that good.
 
Most folks use the recommended Sea-Doo grease for those jet pumps that require grease. I did some research a while back with SKF (the OEM bearing manufacturer) and Exxon Mobile. I'm using Exxon Mobilith SHC-100 grease. It's compatible with the lubricant SKF fills the bearing with at the factory, it's compatible with the XPS grease, and it's a lot less expensive.

If you see any water in the jet pump, or the grease looks discolored, you really need to take a close look at the bearing. Change it if you see any damage, pitting, corrosion etc. That's a high RPM bearing.
 
Most folks use the recommended Sea-Doo grease for those jet pumps that require grease. I did some research a while back with SKF (the OEM bearing manufacturer) and Exxon Mobile. I'm using Exxon Mobilith SHC-100 grease. It's compatible with the lubricant SKF fills the bearing with at the factory, it's compatible with the XPS grease, and it's a lot less expensive.

If you see any water in the jet pump, or the grease looks discolored, you really need to take a close look at the bearing. Change it if you see any damage, pitting, corrosion etc. That's a high RPM bearing.
Ok thanks maybe I’ll post a few pics once I get it apart during this week
 
Ok thanks maybe I’ll post a few pics once I get it apart during this week
Ok thanks maybe I’ll post a few pics once I get it apart during this week
Ok got the pump off with no issues so far. Looks to me like the wear ring is pretty wore. Tried pulling the bellow off the carbon seal with no luck. I think I’m just going to cut it and order a new one for 20 bucks. Seems like the quicker option and then I know it’s good.
 

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Yes the gap looks a bit excessive. The wear limit is .014".

Don't cut the bellows; you have to remove the drive shaft to install the new one anyway. You'll need special tools to pull the drive shaft. Got manual?
 
i have a manual i was going to cut the bellow and pop off the clip with a screwdriver, id didnt want to buy the puller for it all. so in the end i will need a new bellow, carbon seal bebuild kit, grease, and a wear ring or am i missing something?
 
Remove the three screws pull the impeller cover. If you have water in there, you'll want to order a new bearing and all the o-rings needed to rebuild the jet pump.

Look through link below carefully, and read the manual before you begin; it will tell you what consumable parts will need to be replaced and the tools you'll need to do it correclty. I suspect with the amount of wear I see on the wear ring, the bearing is worn. Wear in the bearing will allow excessive radial play in the impeller; that shows up in a torn up wear ring. You may want to measure the radial and axial play using a dial indicator before you pull the pump apart. That would also be a good indication of bearing health.

Rivamotorsports.com's 2005 Sea Doo PWC RXT Parts List
 
Ok thanks I did see maybe 2 or 3 capfulls of water come out of the bearing when I pulled the pump. Is it normal to need a rebuild at 95 hours, I just bought the ski used so don’t know much on how it was treated.
 
I just looked at your manual, section 01, pg 2. You are supposed to replace the impeller shaft seal, sleeve and o-ring every 100 hrs or 2 years. My manual (2002) calls for that replacement at 150 hrs (no time limit).

I pulled both pumps (for rebuild) at 50 hours; both skis were 11 years old at the time. One seal was good, the other had failed and there was water in the pump. The bearing (failed seal pump) had pitting, so I replaced it. Last season, the impeller ate the wear ring on the sister ski, so it go a new bearing and wear ring. The original bearing was 15 yeas old. Both skis have about 130 hours on them now.
 
Ok thanks for the help. I just ordered the carbon seal kit and new wear ring, I will have to take a look at the pump bearings tonight. I’m thinking I was scrubbing a lot of speed with how wore that wear ring was, so I’m hoping it’s a bit quicker when it’s all back together.
 
Ok so I just cut the old bellow off and pulled the driveshaft back to expose the clip but can not seem to find it. The stainless ring spins but will not come off. Hope the pic helps the carbon seal looks blown apart and it looks like someone else changed it before.
 

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The clip is under the floating ring. The floating ring tool will move the ring to the rear so you can access the c-clip.
 

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Ok after a few attempts to get it off with no results I am going to just get the tool. So I should have everything in a week, hopefully it goes well from there.
 
Ok after a few attempts to get it off with no results I am going to just get the tool. So I should have everything in a week, hopefully it goes well from there.
Oh ya I checked the pump bearings they had no water in the housing and looked pretty nice yet, so I’m going to stick with them for a little while yet.
 
Ok, but make sure you check the radial and thrust play with a dial indicator as outlined in the shop manual, or keep a large supply of wear rings handy.
 
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