2005 RXT 215 Blown up now rebuilding need advise

[Lakefun24/7]

2005 RXT 215
So just bought this ski used two weeks ago. It was not running right Changed out fuel pump and filter, Spark Plugs, sucked out all the old gas with the stable in it, Cleaned out injectors and the ski was running good well pretty good. Last weekend had her out and Saturday hi temp was going off but only for a little bit. Then Sunday oil light was going off putting it in limp mode let it sit for 15 min and then would run fine for a while then she died had to get towed back was not happy.

Pulled the valve cover and the timing chain was broken. Then pulled the cylinder head and I had 6 bent valves. Pistons and cylinder walls are in good shape valves never made contact with top of pistons. Pulled oil filter found small amount of tiny metal between filter fins.

Questions i have is Why why me what the hell went wrong and what should i do next really want to get back on the water even with my beer budget.

Should I just rebuild the head and get new gaskets and timing chain ?

Being a 2005 should i rebuild motor with new Pistons and all that ?

Why was the oil light going off ? Does that have something to do with my timing chain ?

By me Deleting exhaust box does that have anything to do with bending valves ?

Any help would be great is there a spot on this forum were people sell used parts ?

 

[depami]

Tear the engine down and remove all the debris left over from ceramic washer failure and replace all the bad parts.

 

[ski-d00]

Your pistons definitely hit the valves when the timing chain broke. That is the only way they bend.

Referencing the post above, it is quite likely that the previous owner had a supercharger failure where the ceramic washers broke and all they did was replace/rebuild the supercharger and sold it. If you don't go through the engine and get the ceramic shards out, it will ruin your motor like take out a timing chain, score bearing journals, tear up oil pumps, etc. Does any of this sound possible? However, the oil pressure switches failing on these years is very common.

At this point, you need to pull the engine, tear it down, and replace what is needed. Using good used parts is fine as long as they are OEM and actually good, not almost good. The exhaust work has nothing to do with your valves. Even with a beer budget, you will have at least a grand in fixing this the right way with new head gaskets, all new valves(get rid of the sodium filled OEM ones), head work to lap new valves, new crank bearings, new stretch bolts, etc.

A small amount of metal slivers in the oil filter is normal. What happens is every time the bendix is slammed into the flywheel when you start it, it can create these small pieces of metal which get trapped in the oil filter. Large metal pieces or ceramic pieces or excessive amounts of metal are not normal.

 

[Lakefun24/7]

Your pistons definitely hit the valves when the timing chain broke. That is the only way they bend.

Referencing the post above, it is quite likely that the previous owner had a supercharger failure where the ceramic washers broke and all they did was replace/rebuild the supercharger and sold it. If you don't go through the engine and get the ceramic shards out, it will ruin your motor like take out a timing chain, score bearing journals, tear up oil pumps, etc. Does any of this sound possible? However, the oil pressure switches failing on these years is very common.

At this point, you need to pull the engine, tear it down, and replace what is needed. Using good used parts is fine as long as they are OEM and actually good, not almost good. The exhaust work has nothing to do with your valves. Even with a beer budget, you will have at least a grand in fixing this the right way with new head gaskets, all new valves(get rid of the sodium filled OEM ones), head work to lap new valves, new crank bearings, new stretch bolts, etc.

A small amount of metal slivers in the oil filter is normal. What happens is every time the bendix is slammed into the flywheel when you start it, it can create these small pieces of metal which get trapped in the oil filter. Large metal pieces or ceramic pieces or excessive amounts of metal are not normal.

What do you think anything jump out at you

 

[ski-d00]

Looks decent, no major damage. Pull the camshaft out and look at the journals. That usually will tell you if ceramic particles went through them and if your head can be salvaged.

Time to pull motor and check out the bottom half as well.

 

[Lakefun24/7]

Looks decent, no major damage. Pull the camshaft out and look at the journals. That usually will tell you if ceramic particles went through them and if your head can be salvaged.

Time to pull motor and check out the bottom half as well.

top of the valves have a build up of some gritty stuff thats probley ceramic right ?

 

[ski-d00]

No, looks like normal combustion crud. The ceramic particles will be in the oil system. You will find remnants of the washers in the oil pump screens, especially the front one usually.

 

[depami]

Be sure to check your pistons for cracks and verify that valves actually are bent as there are indications that they hit.
I was able to save my engine.
Basically just new oil pumps and bearings, and of course gaskets and one time use bolts.
Here's what I found in mine:

 

[Lakefun24/7]

Be sure to check your pistons for cracks and verify that valves actually are bent as there are indications that they hit.
I was able to save my engine.
Basically just new oil pumps and bearings, and of course gaskets and one time use bolts.
Here's what I found in mine:

View attachment 59806

Wow that sucks

 

[Lakefun24/7]

Wow that sucks

Wish I was riding my ski this weekend lol

 

[depami]

Wow that sucks

No worries, my damage was minimal. Like ski-d00 said, a grand later (including super charger rebuild) and all is well. 70 MPH @ 7850 RPM.
I will pound on it for the rest of the year to prove reliability and then the plan is to put it into a Glastron GT-150.

 

[Lakefun24/7]

Nice speed, thinking about up grading to make it a 260 but maybe winter. How fast do you think that Gladstone will go?
How fast is a 215 all stock just curious

 

[depami]

Nice speed, thinking about up grading to make it a 260 but maybe winter. How fast do you think that Gladstone will go?
How fast is a 215 all stock just curious

I don't know about stock 215. I just got mine this year from a salvage yard and it has after market intake, possibly impeller, and who knows what else. I had a hunch about ceramic washer failure when I bought it but wasn't sure. Well I won the auction but lost the bet. No worries though, after rebuilding it I have an intimate connection with it and confidence that it's sound. And it is a Red Rider so I named it LUNATIC FRINGE.

I called on a Glastron GT-150 jet for sale a couple years ago but it was already sold. I spoke with the guy for a while and he put in an OMC jet drive from an old boat. The drive shaft was vertical and coupled to an OMC V4 two stroke. I don't remember if he used a 115 or a 130 but said it went about 32.

Right now my GT-150 does about 48 with a 90 Johnson and full up trim. The RXP has crank shaft rating of 215 and nozzle rating of 104 so I'm hoping to get about the same speed as the 90 Johnson. It will definitely handle differently though and that could be a good thing or a bad thing. I am sort of looking for another GT-150 so I can have a jet drive and the standard prop-job. The one I have now needs transom repair so it would be great to find another with a solid transom, if such a thing even exists.

Most people ask "why" and I just answer "because", knowing it makes no sense at all.

Anyway, sorry to hijack your thread, let's get back to your RXP. I don't know your skill level but I thought it was a pretty easy to work on, especially compared to my 928s.

I wish you all the best and hope you can get it going with as little pain as possible.

 

[Lakefun24/7]

Ok so now naming this Thread need held with building a new motor lol. So today I pulled the Motor out of the ski and took it all apart. It is just down to bare block. You guys said on my post to pull the motor and take a look at everything so I did even though it was tempting to just buy a refurbished head and get her on the water. You guys help me out alot.

Any help would be great really want to get this ski on the water

Here are some questions I have just need a direction to go.


*How bad is that wear on the Crank Bearings ? Was that caused from timing chain going bad?
*Do I have to get the cylinders Bored and the block zero decked
*The inside of the cylinders look great nice and smooth and shinny what do you guys think ?

Im posting pics now

 

[Lakefun24/7]

Here are some pics of my motor

 

[Lakefun24/7]

More pics

 

[depami]

Did you find any debris anywhere? How do the oil pumps look? How does the cam and rocker assembly look? Are there in fact bent valves? It might not hurt to plastigauge the main and rod bearings to know the clearance. Is there any crosshatch on the cylinder walls or are the completely smooth?

 

[Lakefun24/7]

There are no cross hatches on the cylinder walls I know you're talking about they are shiny as can be no imperfections just a different color towards the bottom probably where the Piston doesn't go all the way down and about a quarter of an inch or so at the top with a piston probably stops do you think I need to get it crosshatched how much difference does that make is the motor going to blow up remember I'm doing this on a beer budget LOL but I don't want blow the thing up after I spend all this money

 

[Lakefun24/7]

Found a little bit of metal debris in the oil filter internally that little plastic one if you look at one of the pictures it looks like someone who built that motor unless that's the color RTV sealant Sea-Doo uses

 

[Lakefun24/7]

I did not pull the head apart yet I can see to Bent valves maybe three but I was going to get the bottom end good to go and then work on the top end is right now I don't have the money to buy a refurbished head anyways but I have the money to put pistons and whatnot on the bottom end

 

[Lakefun24/7]

What do you think of WSM pistons on eBay have you ever used them I was looking at the Wiseco Pistons but they're like 200 a pop

 

[dcm0123]

As someone said, if you have hollow valves they must be replaced.
You are lucky you did not crack a head off the valve which would have done serious internal damage.

Considering the valves bent instead of cracked, I am wondering if they were already replaced.

Did you find anything in the bottom of the crank case which could have been caught between the chain and the gear it runs on causing the chain to break? Pieces of a roller bearing possibly from the turbo, a piece of the ceramic washer etc.

 

[Lakefun24/7]

As someone said, if you have hollow valves they must be replaced.
You are lucky you did not crack a head off the valve which would have done serious internal damage.

Considering the valves bent instead of cracked, I am wondering if they were already replaced.

Did you find anything in the bottom of the crank case which could have been caught between the chain and the gear it runs on causing the chain to break? Pieces of a roller bearing possibly from the turbo, a piece of the ceramic washer etc.

Found some metal in the plastic oil filter by oil pump and the little metal piston thing for tensioner got a little fucked up. Im pretty sure that this motor was rebuilt already cause the RTV sealant was all over the place sealing the cylinder block and bottom cover/oil pan crank side.
I have the Block at the Machine shop right now.

Maybee you might know the answers to these questions or someone else

I measured the cylinders they were 98.4 what should I tell the Machine shop to boar them to for putting in the cross hatches

What bolts can I re use off the motor and what bolts should be brand new

Thanks

 

[Digdog]

You absolutely need a shop manual to reassemble the engine , follow it exactly. It also describes what tools you will need to have to put it back together properly. It gives the torque and or the rotation of bolts and which ones you can reuse. I would recommend using forged pistons , any are better than factory pistons , new timing chain ,the rest can be factory parts.

 

[depami]

If the cylinders are within spec for diameter, roundness and taper, then they don't need to be bored, just honed to break the glaze. If they are out of spec, then the bore size is determined by what pistons will be put in.