2003 gtx di

[The Dazza]

I’m reading a lot of posts suggesting it might be a voltage rectifier problem does that sound plausible?

 

[bdesim2]

The maint light could be the regulator.

The loss of rpm is not usually the regulator though unless it's in limp mode at low rpm.

Usually you can be down a few hundred rpm if the water regulator isn't functioning properly.

 

[The Dazza]

Had water reg out and looked fine
When maint and red light come on it’s in limp mode then I can either hold set or remove key and back to normal
I’m going to see a bloke this arvo about a plug in that should give me the codes

 

[bdesim2]

Yeah once you get the codes it'll be easier to see if the voltage regulator. That's where I would put my bets though.

 

[nhmort]

Correct me if I’m wrong, limp mode is caused by sensor issues. It will not trigger due to fuel or air issues.

However, this ski acts crazy with a lack of a perfect voltage regulator and battery.

I had replaced two regulators back to back. The new ones are built to handle the power required for the Di ski. OSD has one, as well as an OEM one.

I also got a bigger AGM battery to handle the load. It requires a size 16 and I installed a 24 from recommendations on this site.

I also disconnect my battery when not in use. Or even better, put it on a battery maintainer.

Fuel pumps can be a problem too. After many years of neglect if not using non-oxy 91 octane.

Air injectors also can fail too.

If you think about a mechanical item, they always have a design quirk or a ware item that you can fix by changing the part. Just figure it out with help from here and replace that said common part that causes the issue.

Everyone thinks that these are to hard to diagnose without Candoo or Buds. And that’s true. However, the above items usually fix them a high percentage of time.

Good luck

 

[bdesim2]

You are correct nhmort, brp didn't put pressure sensors for fuel. (mistake if you ask me) I always have a spare regulator on hand.

Read the forums for advice on replacing with an oem or 4-tec upgrade. The cheap aftermarket ones don't work and if they do it's not for long.

 

[The Dazza]

Thanks nhmort I’m refusing to go to anyone for help at the moment I’m pretty handy with a spanner and I’ll work it out from this forum with everyone’s helping preety sure it’s electrical so a new voltage reg on the way still not costing a fortune so happy to throw a few parts in it
After the new coil packs and new leads,new fuel pump that definitely gave me higher speed and longevity I’ll try my new voltage reg when it get here. I didn’t know what it was before hand and thought it looked a bit second hand with peeling paint so not a lot of money
HERES HOPING I’ll keep you informed but keep up with more ideas cheers matey

 

[The Dazza]

And you as well bdesim2For your help

 

[The Dazza]

Sorry again how do I know if my rave valves are opening??
They cycle twice on shut down?? Any help please

 

[nhmort]

Yes 2 cycles on shutdown.

You can also feel the ski get more power if you will at above 5000rpm when the raves kick in.

 

[bdesim2]

I do not know of a way you can visually be sure they are opening all the way. If they weren't open... you would be missing more than 2-300 rpm. Maybe someone else will chime in on other ideas to check next.

Did you ever get the codes read?

New rectifier Installed?

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

I've heard of a way where you drill a hole in the red screw cap top of the rave cover, and insert a length of straw so that it's touching the rave piston. Once that piston opens, it'll push the straw up. I think you can leave the rave cap drilled out as all it does is provide a spring backstop. I've never tried this btw.

 

[bdesim2]

I really don't think you have a rave issue from the sound of it. Unless there is an air leak in one of the lines. I think the missing Rpms are elsewhere. I want to hear about the code and then next steps after that.

 

[mikidymac]

As for actually seeing the RAVES open you grind or make a small window in the side of the black plastic cap, not the red/blue adjustment screw. All the cap does is support the spring so a window in the side will not hurt anything. This was very common on race skis so they could make sure they were moving for tuning.

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

I drilled holes all around my rave caps to get more cool air in there and hopefully keep it from melting longer.

 

[The Dazza]

Still waiting for rectifier
Guy I’ve been using for info thinks his scanner won’t work on my year di and been too busy at work to find anyone else. Anyone in Australia know how much a plug-in is worth?

 

[The Dazza]

Old reg covered in WHO knows what very salty feel. Undone nuts and had to force old reg off a lot of white corrosion. On back off old reg soft and wiring visible through black insulation see photos. Won’t let me upload photos. Anyway new reg fitted,new pump fitted,new coil packs fitted, new spark plug leads fitted, new spark plugs fitted so I’ll find out on the weekend how it goes.
BTW 110 Fahrenheit here in Adelaide

 

[The Dazza]

STILL the same issues but getting better. Any more ideas? Getting onto a fella this week about a plug in

 

[bdesim2]

So let's recap. What is the machine currently doing? Running 6600 WOT? Idles great? Good power? Just not hitting top rpms?

What other issues are still present?

 

[The Dazza]

Idles great 6600 wot not getting full revs and still a flat spot
Just noticed on front of motor near battery looks like a “throttle” return that has a cable attached but cable broken what is it and what does it do and where does the cable come from?

 

[bdesim2]

That may be the cause of this or certainly contributing. That's the variable oil pump. That cable is attached to the throttle body and when your revs increase you inject more oil. So essentially you are dumping full oil at lower speeds. Could be the cause of your flat spot.

The pumps are supposed to go to full open if that cable breaks. Kind of like a fail safe. Better than seizing a motor.

 

[The Dazza]

is that an easy job to replace?
Does it need to be adjusted properly?
And where would I get/ order/ or name of said part? Thanks for the help

 

[bdesim2]

It's the oil pump cable.

Seadoo part#: 270000546

I don't know of a good place to get it that ships internationally. But I would check eBay or call these guys. I use them all the time and are very fair on prices. They may ship to AUS for you.

Used Seadoo Parts | Used Seadoo Mpems

 

[The Dazza]

All right ski must have done plenty of hours in the ocean and not washed real good everything down low really corroded and hard to remove parts,lots off white corrosion. Picked up a new/second hand cable for $25 looks really good. I’ll fit it before Saturday and pray that’s my problem, I’ll keep you all notified in due course cheers

 

[Marky_Marc]

All right ski must have done plenty of hours in the ocean and not washed real good everything down low really corroded and hard to remove parts,lots off white corrosion. Picked up a new/second hand cable for $25 looks really good. I’ll fit it before Saturday and pray that’s my problem, I’ll keep you all notified in due course cheers

For any future parts in Australia here are some contacts.

Australian Jet Ski Parts - www.ajsp.com.au
WSM Australia www.wsmparts.com.au/
SBT Australia - SBT Australia Jetski Engines, Parts & Accessories
or your Local Seadoo Dealer (obvious & sometimes expensive)

I have ordered through Seadoo, AJSP and WSM, all were positive experiences. I got my WSM parts within 2 days of ordering (and I live in WA)!

Yeah that oil line needs fixed, it could be causing the issue but i am not sure that would affect WOT.