2002 XP Not Charging / Blowing 3A fuse

[SabrToothSqrl]

So, I got my '02 XP back from my friend who put in a new top end kit after my XP melted it's engine together...

Runs amazing and strong.

However last trip out it was getting harder, and harder, and harder to start... like the battery was dying even though we'd been running it.

So, finally it wouldn't start. Luckily I was near the dock and not 7 miles away.

I get back to the house, battery 11.2v. Can't even turn it over out of the water.

After a few minutes I was able to start it, at the battery posts it was showing again 11v. So it's not charging. I then charged the battery, puts out 13.6v, checked the posts again, still not charging the battery. (FSM says 13-14.6v i think while running 3grand+)

I checked the FSM, and it says the charging system is 2 15A fuses; I checked them, nothing. Then, for fun, I pulled all the fuses one by one, and the very last one a 3 amp at the bottom was blown. I replaced it, started up, it blew right away.

Everything works. The start/stop, all guages, trim up / down. Everything seems fine, even without the 3 amp fuse...

So. #1. where do I look for this charging issue? - My mechanic said there's a ground coming off the engine on the stator, I should see if it's not connected.
I don't have the 6 pin $50 wire thing but can I test without it? I have a voltometer, and ohm meter. I don't have an inductive ohm meter though...

and

#2. what the heck does the 3A fuse do?! It went (top to bottom 15, 7.5, a 7.5, then a 5, then a 3, (from memory).

I'd love a fuse diagram on the MPEM if someone has one.

I read the recifyer and MPEM are one, which, after looking is a $800+ part... for a $3,000 jet ski... FML.

let's hope it's the ground wire, or something simple, because before the engine rebuild it ran fine.

thanks everyone!

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

ehh

So, I found the wiring diagram: it goes:

top to bottom
15A - Battery
5A - MPEM
7.5A - VTS
SPARE
SPARE
3A - ACC

so what's ACC and why is it blowing on me?! is it the bilge pump?!

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

welp

Page 525 of the '01 manual.

3 amp fuse = Bilge pump

I had a hunch this was it, I was going to test it tonight, so I guess my pump is bad.

If you slacker's don't answer my charging question, I guess I'll just have to...

 

[Dr Honda]

The charging system on these things are pretty simple. You have a mag coil, a rectifier/regulator unit, a battery, and some wire.


1) pop the plug open and check the stator coils. If they check via the spec in the manual... then they are good. (don't need the special connector, just probe it with your volt/ohm meter)

2) charge the battery, and make sure it can hold a charge for a day or two.

3) Check for corrosion on all the wires, and connectors in the system.

4) if all that is good... replace the rectifier/regulator.



The quick check is to start the engine, and bring it up to 5000 rpm. You should see 13.5v to 14.5v. If you see more, or less... it's almost always the regulator unit.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

yea

I did find that info in the shop manual, didn't know if there was something quick to look at. I will hopefully have time thursday to work on all this. I wish I had that $50 test lead part. You could make it from the 6 pin connector and some scrap wire I guess.

At the battery, it's under 12v while the engine is running 3,000RPM+ so I know it's not charging.

the rectifier is part of the $900+ MPEM. but I did find an 'external' one.

http://www.seadoosource.com/947rectifierupgrade.html

Battery is good, 13.6v, just charged, bought in March of this year. 5 months old.

wires all look good, but I will double check thurs when I can pull the air box + baffle things off. also have to replace the GTX fuel baffle that night as well, i'll do that first so I can get back on the water...

I was able to 'run' almost a whole day w/out the charging system. using the power trim though just KILLS the battery... must be a good load...

thanks!!!

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

Well

Last night I pulled the connector on my stator, and tried for an hour to get an ohm reading from it. No dice. I then tried to start it and get a voltage reading. also no dice. It won't start with that 6 pin connector removed. it will crank, but never start. plug it back in, and boom, fires right up.

I guess I have to go to a dealer to get that 6 pin tester? or have them do it?

Should I hope for a failed MPEM rectifier or a failed stator?

I'm not suprised at all with this ski, i thought I was getting a great deal on it, new engine, looked ok. but how the engine was destroyed has destroyed every other god da__ thing on it!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

yea

called the dealer, asked to borrow that 6 pin connector, for an hour, while i'm there... yea they were like no, we can't loan tools, i'm like what the heck c'mon, i'll give u $10.00... they just like to be jerks... they are going to return my call about it not charging... what part do I hope is broken? I couldn't get a reading from the stator because i can't get my meter down in there... but at the battery I only get 12.4v while running! :'(

I'm just so upset and distraught over the whole damn thing.

 

[seadooya]

rectifier

replace it, with the external kit, from s/d-source.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

well

Right, if it turns out to be that part that is what I will do.

But as of right now I do not know if the stator is putting out any power or not. If it's not, then replacing that won't fix the issue... I need the dealer to hook a voltometer up to the stator for me since I don't have the stupid little tool to do that (the $50 wire plug)... then I will know if it's the stator or the rectifier/regulator.

By no dice before I meant I was unable to get an accurate reading from the pins on the stator. I just can't get my tool in there to get a good reading, so I don't know if it's bad or good... I know the MPEM / recifier is more likely to fail, but I have what we all call the Thomas luck (if it can break, it will, and it will be very expensive).

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

dealer

taking it to the dealer monday to find out if it's the rectifier or stator... wish me luck! lol.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

Stator

Took it to the dealer, they hooked up the correct pin tool, and within 15 minutes of labor (closer to 5). They said 'it's the stator'... the stator was showing no continuity.

So, from 4:15 to 6:15 I wrassled with it, but I won. I took the cover off, which, you have to remove the engine mount to get to, awesome.

New one ordered on ebay for $100.00 (used).

The one I removed had burn marks in 2 areas around it... the wires were melted all the way through, so without that connection, we get no voltage...

Hope to have it this week as I'd really like to go riding!

 

[cctoronto]

Took it to the dealer, they hooked up the correct pin tool, and within 15 minutes of labor (closer to 5). They said 'it's the stator'... the stator was showing no continuity.

So, from 4:15 to 6:15 I wrassled with it, but I won. I took the cover off, which, you have to remove the engine mount to get to, awesome.

New one ordered on ebay for $100.00 (used).

The one I removed had burn marks in 2 areas around it... the wires were melted all the way through, so without that connection, we get no voltage...

Hope to have it this week as I'd really like to go riding!

So did you solve your problem?

Was it the stator?

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

yes

It was the stator.

However, the first one I got on Ebay had burn marks on it as well as massive amounts of rust, so I bitched to high hell, and the shipped another one... meant another 2 weeks I was out of the water.

Between the engine, bilge pump, and this I lost at least 1.5 - 2 months with my XP this summer.

Now both my XP and GTX are running like champs, but I have to winterize them this weekend ... I hate PA.