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2002 Seadoo XP Questions - Flush and Trim...

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YoColifSavr

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I just bought a 2002 Seadoo Xp. It is in awesome shape and looks brand new. Anyway, just wondering if this model came with a factory flush hookup or not. It was nasty out when I went and picked up the ski so I couldnt really tell if there was one in the rear near the nozzle. Also, the only thing not working on this thing is the trim gauge. It stays in the down position all the time. The trim does work and goes up and down when you press the button. Any idea's on where to start to address this problem as well? Thanks guys, I will try and post pics tomorrow of the ski.:coolgleam:
 
yes, it sort of has a flush kit, you just screw your hose into the connector by the pump. don't turn water on til it's running and shut water off before you shut engine off.

trim gauges are pretty reliable until they get moisture in them, then they are toast. the gauge is a simple resistance gauge that works between like 25 and 150 ohms for trim down to trim up, just do a resistance check on the brown signal wires. The VTS modules fail constantly including not giving proper resistance output. The VTS system is actually a very reliable one as long as it doesn't get wet, the black bellows rubber boot on the back will crack and leak water into the VTS housing and fry the module and/or the motor. If you replace this boot every 2-3 years, the VTS system should work well.
 
Ok great I will try that. I also noticed the speedometer isnt working. Checked the wheel and it spins freely. Any ideas? RPM gauge and fuel gauge work tho.
 
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speed sensor is located to the left side of the pump nozzle on ride plate. wheels do break sometimes but more often than not the speed sensor itself fails, very common, simple replacement though.
 
Gotcha actually found it a couple minutes ago. It was tucked up there nicely and overlooked it. The wheel spins freely. I did a search to see how to troubleshoot the speedometer but couldnt find anything close to the same year. Could it be a fuse? Im still looking for the fuse box. This is my first 2 seater so everything is all new to me. Thanks for the help!
 
no, it won't be a fuse if your other gauges work. the fuses are on the MPEM itself, the black box on the left upper side with all the wire harnesses coming out of it, you'll see a small cover on it where you squeeze the tabs top and bottom and pull it off to expose the fuses. there is only 1 other fuse in your black elec coil box on the right side but nothing will work if that's blown.

To troubleshoot the speedo, you have to hook a voltmeter with it still connected(remove the terminals from the connector is easiest but you'll need a terminal tool) with pos to purple/yellow and neg to black wire. then very slowly turn the paddle wheel, each quarter turn the voltage should alternate between .5v and .8v. 99.9% of the time, the speed sensor is bad and the gauge is fine if it doens't have moisture in it. these are the only 2 items in the speedo system other than the wiring.
 
I did a resitance check on the brown white and brown black wire coming from trim gauge. Was reading 80ohm give or take
 
ok, that sounds about right for middle trim. move the trim all the way up and measure resistance. then move it all the way down and measure.

so far, it sounds like you have a bad gauge. you should also verify that you have 12v getting to the gauge in the purple wire.
 
I disconnected the plug that goes to the trim gauge, purple wire and tested it to see if I had anything. No voltage at the purple wire. I had to switch multimeters, the other one i was using was no good.
 
Yep, that sounds correct as far as ohms.

The gauges are all powered by a daisy chain(parallel circuits) with the purple wires so if you disconnect one, you could lose power to all of them. Trace the purple wires back to find the discontinuity location. You can unplug the purple from another gauge that is getting power and plug it into the trim gauge to test.
 
Im not sure if this is the problem but I rem. when I got the ski the guy said he unhooked all the electrical wires and cleaned the compartment out and said he hooked them all back up. Upon further investigation according to the manual I should have a wire coming off the tachometer to the trim gauge which I dont. The wires from the trim gauge are a complete loop the brown wires hook to the main "daisy chain" where the purple wires are not, they are looped back to themselves
 
yes, that's your problem. each guage should be hooked to one another by the purple wire so that it has power. the trim gauge is out of the loop. disconnect another gauge and connect the trim gauge to it to get it back in the daisy chain loop. the order of what is connected first, second, etc. doesn't matter, just matters that all gauges are looped together via the daisy chain.
 
Not sure if this pic helps but here are the wires coming from the trim gauge

552qe.jpg
 
kind of hard to get power that way, huh! unless the trim gauge has it's own internal 12v power supply or better yet, it's own internal nuclear reactor...lol
Simple fix, just unhook it and get it back inline with the 12v power supply. I'll bet the gauge works perfectly in about 2 minutes.
 
Nope it doesnt...I unhooked it and hooked all them up according to the diagram. None of the gauges work. If I take the trim gauge out of the loop then the fuel gauge and tach work. WTF over. I have the diagram right here. I ran the fuel wire to the speedo, ran the speedo to the tach, ran the tach to the trim and ran the trim to the main wire that runs to the control box. I didnt get anything on any of the gauges. If I hook them up back the way we started and it works fine
 
One other thing to add...I pulled the gauge out of the cluster. And when you move it around it sounds like there is about 10-15 bb's in there. Do you think this could be a reason that the power doesnt work when hooked up correctly? The wires internally are fried?
 
it shouldn't have anything rattling around inside, that's for sure. it sounds like it has a dead short, check the resistance between the pos and neg.

I think it's time for a new trim gauge, but that's why somebody wired it like that.

I'm pretty sure I have a good used one but I'll have to check my box of gauges. Not sure what the going rate is for them but I'll sell reasonably if you're interested. Can you take a pic of your gauge so I can match? They changed the paint on the face a little bit from year to year.
 
Just did a resistance check on the speedo and trim gauge. Speedo was fine, trim however was not. Got zero reading's through the trim gauge. I am very interested in buying a new trim gauge. Just name your price shipped and I can paypal ya.

20110519151456727.jpg
 
Yes, it will work the same.

Yes, I have speed sensors but I don't sell used ones because they don't last long so only new in package and I can't do much on the price, I sell plenty every year. This VTS gauge has been sitting in a box for several years so I don't mind taking a loss on it.

How about $140 shipped for both the new speed sensor and new VTS gauge? That's about half of retail for new parts. Or, I can do $45 shipped on the gauge if you just want that. PayPal email is Ohio Power Sports at woh.rr.com without spaces.
 
Ok sounds great, what actually goes bad on the sensor? Mine looks like it is in great shape? Is it the wires? I am def. gonna get the trim gauge.
 
The sensors go bad because the potted epoxy leaks water/moisture around it and kills the electronics. I have repaired seadoo speed sensors but is not worth the time involved. The sensor is actually pretty complicated and is a Magneto-Resistive speed sensor that uses the Hall effect without switching to ground to change voltage when a magnet passes through its field. The 4 lobes of the paddle wheel are actually magnets. Crankshaft sensors work the same way using a lobe of the steel crank.
 
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